Discussion in 'General discussion' started by richiep, May 2, 2021.
True and it starts off being LHD but isn't expensive and could easily give the right 'look'.
Great car Richie I actually put a deposit on that sane car but then the green GT came up so I got that one instead. Yours is very clean I love the banana rear lights. I'm finding sourcing parts a lot harder than Zeds. Had to order cam cover gaskets and leads from Australia !
Let me know what options your going for to lower her as I want to do the same but not coilovers as the ride gets to harsh. Good luck with the mods
Yeah, I heard about you from Rob the seller! You’ve definitely got yourself a nice car, allowing me to get one too! Although if you had bought mine, maybe we’d have ended up with each other’s!
Mod plans are mainly focussed on upgrading to twin cam spec, but lowering is something I’m spending time figuring out at the moment. I’ve been researching what’s available and considering pros and cons. I’m leaning toward the idea of T3’s lowering springs and KYB AGX adjustable shocks for the rear. For the front - still figuring it out. Lowering springs and a suitable shock would be the simplest. Alternatively, a coilover similar to the BC Racing type ones with separate height adjustment could be a route. Decisions, decisions...!
'the seller' ? I've sold a lot of things lately but not a Toyota.
It's a lovely car. Great rust-free condition and very original.
Different Rob! I.e. the Rob who I bought my Celica off. You just connected the dots that the previous prospective buyer for my car who then bought a green RA28 was Col!
there's two Robs?
But only one Gaskin
There was a ship named the Robert Gaskin - it sank!
That reinceforces my statement above. Only one Rob Gaskin !
hi Richie i have sent you a PM ref Celica parts
Are you looking for one of these?
I just spotted it and remembered your project.
I've already got one incoming from a guy in Ireland. For a lot less that they want to refurb that head! It's far cleaner to begin with and I'll do the port/polish and rebuild myself, with surfacing and seat cutting done by my tame machine shop in town.
I missed out on another 18R single cam engine on eBay due to fluffing the sniper bid - or rather getting out-sniped. Which was a pain as I would've used the bottom end to build the RG twin cam. I've got feelers out though, and worst case I use the existing 18R bottom end as the basis for the RG build. It would be nicer to be able to build the new engine without cannibalizing the original though.
Picking up a 5-speed box in a couple of weeks too. Basically, I'll probably run it this year as is - with the exception of a new stainless exhaust - and then change everything up in the autumn and winter for next year.
Who supplies those please as I've a TA22 coming my way shortly which'll need one.
No one off-the-shelf outside Japan as far as I can tell. I’m planning to have one made by JP Exhausts in Congleton. They did a TA27 Liftback recently so it’ll be very similar to what that car had.
Ok, thanks...and I might have found an 18RG engine here for mine - are they rated at 130 or more bhp ?
It depends on the variant - 18RGs aren't homogenous as there are several versions as the applications and smog/emissions requirements evolved, and compression ratios were lowered with time. The early versions that are just called 18RG have 9.7:1 comp and run 140bhp on the Mikuni/Solex 40s. 18RGR - 9.2:1, 130bhp with air injection and EGR. 18RGRU and 18RGU, increasingly complex smog gear, non-rebuildable carbs, and power down to 125 and 120hp respectively. 18RGEU - 8.7:1, fuel injection, 120hp.
Basically, plan on rebuilding the engine and sprinkling fairy dust on it in the process! For example, my planned build will be:
Boring out to 2.2L, 92mm pistons (standards are 89)
High (11:1) comp pistons (RG heads can only be skimmed 1mm tops, so refacing is probably best and bump things with piston design and head gasket)
Rally cams, big valves, high rpm springs
Port job on the head (the one I've got is a Yamaha-made 18RGU head). The casting is really nice and will port very easily. The head has had new valve seats at some point which could be oversize as the ports at the seat end have been throat cut a few mil past the seats. This makes it perfect for blending the porting into those machined areas. There isn't much that can be done on the chambers as they are very smooth and bowl-like from the outset, just a bling polishing job.
Kameari valve guides to go with the port job and trimming to the guide bosses (similar to what I did to that Kameari SPL-style N42 head I'm making for Dixie).
44-45 carbs on Kameari/Harada intake with cable throttle.
Tubular manifold - I intend to have JP make one based on the TRD design for these cars; I have a copy of a TRD manifold for the 1600cc 2TG engine that can be used as a sample. It doesn't fit the 18RG, but the basic design is the same, so the aim will be something similar in appearance but with the right flange and bigger primary tubes.
In general, that and other related tweaks should get power up into the 160-180hp range. Which will be fine for what I want with the car, given it weighs 200kg less than a Z!
Of course, if you want 130-150ish, you don't need to go that far, just bigger carbs, maybe cams, etc.
Sounds very complex Richie but great !
I find it very hard to just do things the easy way. Given I’d have to put new pistons in and make various bottom end changes to build the 18R into an 18RG, I may as well go all in tbh!
Thanks Richie, I'm a genuine newbie when it comes to Celicas and have NO idea of the market variations.....I'm collecting my TA22 ST at the end of the month !
It has the 2T-B and I'm planning on putting on a pair of twin choke carbs with an improved compression ratio, uprated exhaust system and honestly, if I get towards 120bhp, I'll be happy.
I'll be lowering it, 15'' wheels (7s or 8s wide - I don't know what will pass under the arches yet), front lip spoiler in front possible black or dark anthracite and nothing at the rear - I love the haunches as they are.
I'd like to know please what spline design is on the steering column in order to change the stock wheel which frankly looks like cheap shyte and not worthy of the rest of the car.
Any tips please for improving the steering which, if I remember right is a recirculating-ball set-up with LOADS of play in it before anything actually happens.....?
Cheers - following your project !
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