Talk to me about rust prevention after paint. | The Z Club of Great Britain
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Talk to me about rust prevention after paint.

Discussion in 'General discussion' started by Wally, Nov 1, 2017.

  1. Wally

    Wally New Forum User

    So before I commit to buying a Z and restoring and modifying it I'm doing a massive amount of research and planning so I know what I'm letting myself in for. I'm wanting the car to end up as a daily driver and the main thing that has me worried is rust of all things. After the advice on here I'll be looking at a hopefully fairly rust free/minimal rust import from the USA.

    The plan will be to fully strip the car, media blast it and prime the car. I will then convert to RHD and repair any panels that require it and fully paint the shell.

    The big thing I'm struggling to find info on is rust prevention after all the rust has been removed and the shell painted. What needs doing to prevent its return? Is the new paint enough or should I be doing more? Do I need special coatings underneath the car and in the arches? Some people talk about waxing certain areas, like inside the chassis rails.

    All info is appreciated. Cheers.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
  2. Mr Tenno

    Mr Tenno
    ZClub Administrator
    Staff Member Committee Member

    If you're going to all that effort to strip and convert, I'd say go the whole hog:

    • Rust inhibiting primer
    • Decent stonechip underneath
    • As much Dinitrol in the body cavities as you can
    • Dinitrol clear under the car
    • Only drive it on sunny days :D
  3. Wally

    Wally New Forum User

    Never heard of rust inhibitong primer. Definitely need to read up on that. Hopefully I won't have to resort to just using it on sunny days. I want this to be a usable car not a garage princess

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
  4. toopy

    Z Club Member

    I believe that would be zinc primer, has to be used on bare metal to work as intended,
    no good using it over normal primer as it is then isolated from the base metal.
  5. jonbills

    ZClub Administrator
    Staff Member Committee Member

    Best way to prevent the return of the rust is:
    1) don't drive it in the salt season at all.
    2) don't drive it in the rain if you can avoid it.
  6. Jimbo

    Jimbo 1978 260z in yellow

    only way your going to get all area like on new cars is to get the shell dipped in an Ecoat of something rust ingibative.
    there used to be a place in dudley that acid dipped and then Ecoat the body this is the only way your going to get into all the nooks and cranies, but i have heard of horror stories of acid being trapped in the body causing more harm then good ( don't know if its true but most horror stories come from people who didn't have the full treatment hence why acid got trapped in there)
    only problem as your finding out is the mintest datsun that hasn't been restored will still have rust hidden away in the areas impossible to get to to paint.
    even ones from the US aren't perfect but probably a good starting point.
  7. uk66fastback

    Z Club Member

    The main problem with these cars is that the metal is as thin as anything and that, added to the poor original protection back in the day made them (and other makes) rust more or less in the showroom!

    Are you going for OEM-original spec or modified? You could import the best rust-free shell you can find (which you'll need) but that isn't going to be cheap in itself. Would it not be better long-term to just buy a restored RHD car here and further improve as much as you can, the level of rustproofing.

    I wouldn't be using it as a daily in all weathers, that's for sure. It WILL deteriorate no matter how much care you give it!
  8. cosworth415

    Z Club Member

    Electro plated zinc
  9. Wally

    Wally New Forum User

    Thanks for the replies.

    Acid dipping is off the cards as there are a huge amount of horror stories. Not just from guys on forums but big car restorers too. It would be a massive disappointment to have the paint ruined a year or two after finishing it.

    Yes the car will be suttly modified for the exterior and interior. Engine will be swapped for rb25 plus matching gearbox and diff. All suspension either refurbished or replaced for adjustable.

    I'm actually starting to get put off starting this project. The actual restore doesn't phase me but the thought of not just being able to use it when I want and having to constantly battle rust after is making me think why start. I wonder if I'd be better off with something newer? I do love the looks of a 240z though.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
  10. toopy

    Z Club Member

    The thing is, as a daily driver, not only will on going corrosion be an issue for all weather use, but especially at colder/wetter times, stuff like..

    Poor wiper action
    Rear demister's generally dont work after all these years
    Dim headlights
    Heater blower is woefully under powered, especially for clearing a damp screen
    Rear wheel drive on wet/slippery/mushy leaved roads with no traction control or ABS especially if you go RB powered!
  11. datsfun

    Z Club Member

    Depends on how long you expect it to look good and be structurally rust free after your restoration. If done properly, I would say you should easily get 7-10 years use even as a daily before the rust needs to be addressed again.

    By then, you would have had plenty of fun in the s30, matured and will probably want a diesel estate !!!:p:devil:
  12. johnymd

    Z Club Member

    There are plenty of good 280z's in the states and they appear to suffer less from rust than the 240. I'd look for a good one of those to start the project with. Use a cavity wax in all the areas you can and pay major attention to all the seams under the car. Then cover the underside with a hard wax. Recoat every year and address any underbody damaged protection. You should be able to use the car quit a lot but avoid when salt is on the road.
  13. 240Z Man

    240Z Man Forum User

    The way I have found best to do a shell now is media blast it, then get it sprayed straight away with epoxy primer which should seal out the damp, next after you have done all your repairs the chassis box sections and inner sills I would spray it with a product made by Eastwood that is specially designed for box sections. The floor pan and the wheel arches I would spray with Raptor which is a Bed liner but it so happens it is one of the best body protections on the market. You can colour it as well with 10% paint to the colour of the car. The inner floor pans I would spray with a new product on the market which is called Lizard Skin. This is a sound proofing product then you spray on their thermal barrier which prevents heat coming in to the car. This would also seal the floor. You can find the product reviews on You Tube. Then I would consider replacing the doors and wings with good quality Japanese plastic parts. I think if you did this it would be as good as a modern car. I speak from experience, having done many cars.
  14. racer

    Z Club Member

    This is a issue you would have with any classic car not just a Zed.
    They just don't stand up to the huge amount of salt we use on our roads in the winter.

    Daily the car in in the summer by all means, but to keep it special a second car is a must Imo.
  15. Jimbo

    Jimbo 1978 260z in yellow

    can you still get a car shell galvanised?
    or at least plated in a way that gets to all the internals?

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