Suspension set up

Matt Berry

Club Member
Been scouring the forum and reading as much as I can regarding suspension set up. Being that I’ll be putting all new suspension components in I’d like some input and recommendations on what would create a good overall set up. I’ll be using coilovers, but want to know what other components to put with them, like top mounts, roll bars, control arms, bushes etc. It won’t be used on track but would like a stiff/comfortable set up. Budget wise I won’t be going for the cheapest option, but on the same hand it’s not a money no object build either. If someone could make me a list that would be handy EXTRA:D
 

Matt Berry

Club Member
Gone through both threads, lots of good info, but it’s mostly all about the coilovers themselves. I’d like to know a bit more about what to put with them. For example weld in camber plates, are they needed for coilovers and if so will only certain types work with certain coilovers?
 
Gone through both threads, lots of good info, but it’s mostly all about the coilovers themselves. I’d like to know a bit more about what to put with them. For example weld in camber plates, are they needed for coilovers and if so will only certain types work with certain coilovers?

It depends on how much camber you think you need. you don't need camber plates for coil overs, most the decent ones you can use stock top mounts, you can add camber adjustment without plates.
 

Matt Berry

Club Member
It depends on how much camber you think you need. you don't need camber plates for coil overs, most the decent ones you can use stock top mounts, you can add camber adjustment without plates.

How do you find the intrax coilovers? Haven’t actually read up on them yet. Do you know much about the T3 front and rear control arms? I’m just trying to get a idea of what components are worth replacing, so say for example,
>coilovers
>front and rear control arms
>bushes
and so on
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
Out of interest, whats wrong with the Nissan supplied standard suspension? I'm wondering why "everyone" starts from "coilovers, obviously".
IMO the standard stuff works OK apart from a few bits like the compression rod bush.
 

Matt Berry

Club Member
Out of interest, whats wrong with the Nissan supplied standard suspension? I'm wondering why "everyone" starts from "coilovers, obviously".
IMO the standard stuff works OK apart from a few bits like the compression rod bush.
I’m guessing down to the owners desired look and feel of what they want. Having not driven one yet I’m not in a position to comment on the standard setup. As mine is a restoration I’m looking to upgrade as much as possible when putting it back together
 

johnymd

Club Member
IMO the factory component are perfect for a road car and will give you "good" geometry. My red 280z runs standard suspension with better dampers and slightly uprated springs and it performs great for a road car. Even coped well with nurgburgring. My silver car has the same standard suspension but with BC's to adjust the ride height. This feels a bit more sporty due to being lower and is probably the best value bang for your buck for a road and occasional track car. The full kit on my blue car gives total adjustability but it's a lot of money for not a major gain for a road car.
 

Woody928

Events Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Gone through both threads, lots of good info, but it’s mostly all about the coilovers themselves. I’d like to know a bit more about what to put with them. For example weld in camber plates, are they needed for coilovers and if so will only certain types work with certain coilovers?

Ask away, as I will likely now know the answers after lots of research. You've obviously already seen my thread on coilovers.

Weld in camber plates are not necessary for a road car in my opinion, if you wish to go the coilover route having considered the options then BC's for example come fitted with adjustable top mounts standard. These retain the stock bolt on configuration with no need to alter the shock towers, they also allow up to 1.5 degrees of camber adjustment. Albeit you have to preset this before fitting as its then hidden under the shock tower, fine for a road car where you won't be constantly messing.

With the camber adjustment on some top mounts do you really need fully adjustable control arms? I wanted the full caster, toe and camber adjustment to play with the setup but realistically this is overkill for most people's purposes. If you get coilovers like the BC's then you can dial in camber before fitting for road purposes anyway.

Roll bars, there's lots of options with different sizes and mounting locations and price points. Though several generous favors and help from members on here I ended up using Suspension Techniques kit as being an early car I had no rear factory roll bar mounts. They have utilized a mounting kit of the rear diff like the BRE race cars back in the day with requires no body modification which really appealed to me. I look at getting a Euro kit refurbed however it wasn't going to be cost effective and on reflection I wasn't happy with MSA's offerings.

http://www.stsuspensions.com/produc...st-suspensions-st-anti-swaybar-set-52095.html

There's no right or wrong answer with any of this, it comes down to preference, budget and intended usage. Doing it again on a budget and for a normal road car, I'd get BC's, refurb the OEM control arms and fit new rubber bushes (not poly) and the ST roll bar kit but that's just me. I hope that helps....

Out of interest, whats wrong with the Nissan supplied standard suspension? I'm wondering why "everyone" starts from "coilovers, obviously".
IMO the standard stuff works OK apart from a few bits like the compression rod bush.

For me I wanted the adjustable ride height (these cars sit way to high imo) and adjustable damping. Neither of which are possible in the same way with a shocks and springs setup. Ride and performance wise they'd be find but they don't tick the other boxes.... I've got cars on both setups and they have their own pros and cons.
 
How do you find the intrax coilovers? Haven’t actually read up on them yet. Do you know much about the T3 front and rear control arms? I’m just trying to get a idea of what components are worth replacing, so say for example,
>coilovers
>front and rear control arms
>bushes
and so on

Why would you replace factory control arms?

Replacing 40odd year old bushings is a must.
 

Matt Berry

Club Member
Ask away, as I will likely now know the answers after lots of research. You've obviously already seen my thread on coilovers.

Weld in camber plates are not necessary for a road car in my opinion, if you wish to go the coilover route having considered the options then BC's for example come fitted with adjustable top mounts standard. These retain the stock bolt on configuration with no need to alter the shock towers, they also allow up to 1.5 degrees of camber adjustment. Albeit you have to preset this before fitting as its then hidden under the shock tower, fine for a road car where you won't be constantly messing.

With the camber adjustment on some top mounts do you really need fully adjustable control arms? I wanted the full caster, toe and camber adjustment to play with the setup but realistically this is overkill for most people's purposes. If you get coilovers like the BC's then you can dial in camber before fitting for road purposes anyway.

Roll bars, there's lots of options with different sizes and mounting locations and price points. Though several generous favors and help from members on here I ended up using Suspension Techniques kit as being an early car I had no rear factory roll bar mounts. They have utilized a mounting kit of the rear diff like the BRE race cars back in the day with requires no body modification which really appealed to me. I look at getting a Euro kit refurbed however it wasn't going to be cost effective and on reflection I wasn't happy with MSA's offerings.

http://www.stsuspensions.com/produc...st-suspensions-st-anti-swaybar-set-52095.html

There's no right or wrong answer with any of this, it comes down to preference, budget and intended usage. Doing it again on a budget and for a normal road car, I'd get BC's, refurb the OEM control arms and fit new rubber bushes (not poly) and the ST roll bar kit but that's just me. I hope that helps....



For me I wanted the adjustable ride height (these cars sit way to high imo) and adjustable damping. Neither of which are possible in the same way with a shocks and springs setup. Ride and performance wise they'd be find but they don't tick the other boxes.... I've got cars on both setups and they have their own pros and cons.

The BC’s do seem a popular option so have looked into them, I guess they’re popular due to cost and being available in the UK. Are they actually any good for their cost or does it pay to spend a bit more on a different set for example the intrax options suggested by Franky? I do like the look of some of the techno toy tuning offerings especially the rear control arms and tension control rods
 

Matt Berry

Club Member
Why would you replace factory control arms?

Replacing 40odd year old bushings is a must.
Anything that is worth updating/upgrading I will. Just don’t want to end up going overboard and buying items that would be pointless in just a road car
 
The BC’s do seem a popular option so have looked into them, I guess they’re popular due to cost and being available in the UK. Are they actually any good for their cost or does it pay to spend a bit more on a different set for example the intrax options suggested by Franky? I do like the look of some of the techno toy tuning offerings especially the rear control arms and tension control rods

Intrax do a none adjustable setup, that's not that much more than the BC, it'll be much better quality dampers as they've been developed and tested for various uses. I think the cheapest intrax is just a few hundred quid more than BC. The dampers are made to suit your car and use, the BC's aren't quite in the same league.
 
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Matt Berry

Club Member
Intrax do a none adjustable setup, that's not that much more than the BC, it'll be much better quality dampers as they've been developed and tested for various uses. I think the cheapest intrax is just a few hundred quid more than BC. The dampers are made to suit your car and use, the BC's aren't quite in the same league.

Are you running their adjustable set up?
 

Woody928

Events Officer
Staff member
Club Member
The BC’s do seem a popular option so have looked into them, I guess they’re popular due to cost and being available in the UK. Are they actually any good for their cost or does it pay to spend a bit more on a different set for example the intrax options suggested by Franky? I do like the look of some of the techno toy tuning offerings especially the rear control arms and tension control rods

I'm very happy with the set that I purchased, the car handles and rides very well while giving me the adjustability that I wanted. Certainly you can't beat them in terms of value for money, if you're ever Surrey way then you're very welcome to a passenger ride.

As you will have read I made inquiries with Intrax when I looked at the options, I have no doubt that they offer a superior product and that it will be perfectly built to your specification and needs however that service comes at a price. The BC's were about £825 to my door plus donor struts, sectioning and welding whereas Intrax non upside down adjustable options are 1900 EUR plus shipping + VAT and donor struts as a starting point. I was looking at the upside down setup starting at 2,500 EUR without extras. Now the question you have to ask yourself is will you really notice the difference and is it worth paying up to 3x as much for it. Money no issue I was have gone that way all day however talking cost into consideration I've never looked back with the BC setup. Your call.

They look very pretty but do you really need them for your intended usage? My car gets used quite seriously and I'm very happy with my setup however it's money that could otherwise be saved and spent elsewhere particularly if its going to be a road only car. Just my thoughts....
 

Matt Berry

Club Member
I'm very happy with the set that I purchased, the car handles and rides very well while giving me the adjustability that I wanted. Certainly you can't beat them in terms of value for money, if you're ever Surrey way then you're very welcome to a passenger ride.

As you will have read I made inquiries with Intrax when I looked at the options, I have no doubt that they offer a superior product and that it will be perfectly built to your specification and needs however that service comes at a price. The BC's were about £825 to my door plus donor struts, sectioning and welding whereas Intrax non upside down adjustable options are 1900 EUR plus shipping + VAT and donor struts as a starting point. I was looking at the upside down setup starting at 2,500 EUR without extras. Now the question you have to ask yourself is will you really notice the difference and is it worth paying up to 3x as much for it. Money no issue I was have gone that way all day however talking cost into consideration I've never looked back with the BC setup. Your call.

They look very pretty but do you really need them for your intended usage? My car gets used quite seriously and I'm very happy with my setup however it's money that could otherwise be saved and spent elsewhere particularly if its going to be a road only car. Just my thoughts....

My thoughts exactly, for only road use will I be gaining that much by spending a lot more and not maximising their potential. So if I decide on BC coilovers, the ST roll bar kit, and replace all the bushes what else is worth changing/upgrading in your opinion?
 
When you buy BC you're just buying from a reseller.

It'd be worth deciding once you know more about what you want to do with your car, use/weight/wheel size-profile/size of ARB's/chassis mods(roll hoops/cages) should all be taken into factor.

Suspension is the thing you feel the most. The other point is, that out of all the proper specialists I went to where it was silly money(ie 6k for dampers alone), all of them said one of the list above was good for the money and the most sensible choice.
 
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