Sunbaked '76 Cali 280z

Geoff-R

Club Member
Yes, same, although I made mine out of EPDM foam which was thicker than the standard ones as I really didn't want a leak or fumes getting in to the car.
 

Robotsan

Club Member
Yes, same, although I made mine out of EPDM foam which was thicker than the standard ones as I really didn't want a leak or fumes getting in to the car.

Ah ok. Well as I've got them I'll install these and see how I get on. Can always do that later.
 

Geoff-R

Club Member
I'm sure the standard ones are fine to be honest, I was probably being over the top making them out of thicker EPDM. The old ones that came out were falling apart after 40+ years.
 

Robotsan

Club Member
Finally managed to get all the old glue off the wheel wells and strut towers.. I say all, I couldn't get this last bit because I can't figure out how to get this right side panel out. I disconnected the right hand boot lid strut thing, but it just wouldn't clear the metal bracket that the strut attaches to. Any clues!?

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But the rest is done. Hopefully now that's the last of the mucky sanding/grinding/scraping work in the interior, and now it's just cleaning and reupholstering, and the odd bit of painting.

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toopy

Club Member
It could also be that when new these plastic parts would of been more pliable and bendy, now they are brittle with far less give!
 

Robotsan

Club Member
Can you not pull the panel from the bottom? Are you painting or retrimming the interior plastic?

Yeah I can pull it quite far, but not far enough. It's bending a lot and I'm scared the old brittle plastic will snap.

I'm not, no, I just need to be able to get to the rest of the top of that wheel well to get the glue off and apply sound deadening to it.
 

Robotsan

Club Member
It could also be that when new these plastic parts would of been more pliable and bendy, now they are brittle with far less give!

Yeah agreed. That's what worries me. I wonder if heating it would be a good idea 🤔

Surely someone on here has removed it before though and knows the trick... Or is it different on the 240s?
 

uk66fastback

Club Member
The 240s only have ONE strut for the rear hatch whereas the 280 has TWO I think ... they are incredibly brittle and break at the slightest provocation. Ask me how I know. Take it s-l-o-w!
 

Robotsan

Club Member
Decided to do the rear light panels and the number plate holder this weekend. The number plate holder would be the guinea pig.

It wasn't in bad nick - just dirty and the paint was mega faded..

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Used some sealant primer in case of a reaction with the old paint first (thanks @Larby for the tip!)...

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Before 3 coats of the Ford Shadow Grey paint. I'm not 100% sure the number plate holder was the same grey as the panels, but it kinda looks like it was. And I think it would look good all the same colour anyway so that's what it shall be!

Pretty happy with the finish. I dried it between coats with the heat gun on the low setting which seemed to work a treat in my cold garage with all the doors open!

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So then it was onto the main event. The left panel was in great nic and only needed a little light sanding. The right hand side had a few scratches, pock marks and even what looked like pitting. So I did my best with the sanding, but I will likely source a better condition part in the future to replace it ..

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Really chuffed with the finish overall though.

Next step is matte lacquer, but I'm scared as I've never used lacquer before.. Anyone got any tips?!
 

richiep

Club Member
Don’t sand/scuff before the lacquer! Big no-no with metallics. Just make sure it’s clean and degreased before shooting the clear.

Is it 1k or 2k lacquer? I actually used 1k matte from paints4u I think. Came out great.
 

Robotsan

Club Member
Don’t sand/scuff before the lacquer! Big no-no with metallics. Just make sure it’s clean and degreased before shooting the clear.

Is it 1k or 2k lacquer? I actually used 1k matte from paints4u I think. Came out great.

Thanks Rich, good to know!

Erm.. it's 1k I guess.. just basic Halfords Matt Lacquer. Reckon that'll be ok? I was going to test it on the back of the number plate holder first!
 

toopy

Club Member
Ive only sprayed a few smaller items with lacquer, the largest being a new starter motor, but it seems to be far less forgiving if you go a tad heavy by accident. Light almost mist coats and probably twice as many than you would with 'normal' paint.
 

Healey 12

Club Member
Decided to do the rear light panels and the number plate holder this weekend. The number plate holder would be the guinea pig.

It wasn't in bad nick - just dirty and the paint was mega faded..

View attachment 56096

Used some sealant primer in case of a reaction with the old paint first (thanks @Larby for the tip!)...

View attachment 56095

Before 3 coats of the Ford Shadow Grey paint. I'm not 100% sure the number plate holder was the same grey as the panels, but it kinda looks like it was. And I think it would look good all the same colour anyway so that's what it shall be!

Pretty happy with the finish. I dried it between coats with the heat gun on the low setting which seemed to work a treat in my cold garage with all the doors open!

View attachment 56097

So then it was onto the main event. The left panel was in great nic and only needed a little light sanding. The right hand side had a few scratches, pock marks and even what looked like pitting. So I did my best with the sanding, but I will likely source a better condition part in the future to replace it ..

View attachment 56098

View attachment 56099

View attachment 56100

View attachment 56101

View attachment 56102

View attachment 56103


Really chuffed with the finish overall though.

Next step is matte lacquer, but I'm scared as I've never used lacquer before.. Anyone got any tips?!
Hi , where did you get the shadow grey paint from? and is that the right color for a 240Z
 
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