Steering wheel wobble

R

RIDDLER

Well-Known Forum User
Getting a bit of wheel wobble which you can feel through the steering wheel between 65-75mph. It stops wobbling completely at 80mph.

Had the front wheels balanced, but this has not seemed to make any difference.

Would a rear wheel balance solve it? Or is it something else?

I have got Performance alloys on the car (205x60x15s).

It's liveable with as it's not too bad, just a bit annoying as 65-75 is a speed you are at a lot on motorways.

Any suggestions anyone?
 
T

Throttleton

Well-Known Forum User
I have had wheels balanced and the weights have fallen off driving home. Worth checking when you get them done what weights were put on so you can keep an eye on them.
Also check for blebs on your tyres, especially on the inside where you can't see normally.
Not usual but worth a look before you spend money.
 
Rob Gaskin

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Jack the car up at the front and spin the wheels. Check for run-out, up and down' and 'side to side'. I had a damaged Wolfrace that caused vibration.

If ok check steering column coupler in engine bay and then bushes on bottom of the struts and compression rod (at chassis leg).

If that's not easy a Quick-Fit type place should be able to do that cheaply :unsure::unsure:
 
mark240z

mark240z

Well-Known Forum User
normaly wheel wobble 30-50 ish is front wheels needs balencing and 50-70 ish is rear, so id try swaping you wheels back to front of if you have to spare pop them on the back mate
 
malcolmpaul

malcolmpaul

Well-Known Forum User
I had the same problem and after doing everything the others mentioned with no results traced it to a slightly binding front brake calliper
 
S

samuri-240

Well-Known Forum User
I had the same problem also, tried everything never cured it, sold the car to a mate & he eventually found the cause when he had to replace a rear tyre, all along it was a faulty tyre.
 
R

RIDDLER

Well-Known Forum User
Thanks - all really helpful. Will go to my classic-friendly tyre place (they drool over the car whenever I roll up in it) and get them to do the tracking and maybe balance the rear wheels.

Will also get them to look at the coupler/bushes at the same time.

Can't afford to start changing all the wheels, so if the above doesn't work will just have to drive at 60 all the time . . . or 80?
 
R

rallymanDP

Well-Known Forum User
At the same time as the above, Robert, get all the the Wheel Bearings checked for play - just a slightly loose one makes a big difference at speed.
 
U

us2

Well-Known Forum User
I had some Falcon tyres that were out of round, and caused all sorts of wobbles. Cheap rubbish.
This was on new alloy rims.

Replaced them with some Toyo tyres and the problem went away.
 
R

RIDDLER

Well-Known Forum User
Quick update on this. Despite having the wheels checked for trueness and refurbished, and having them balanced AGAIN, problem persisted. So today had the tie-rod bushes replaced with new polyurethane ones and - hey presto - problem solved!
 
Rob Gaskin

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
RIDDLER said:
Quick update on this. Despite having the wheels checked for trueness and refurbished, and having them balanced AGAIN, problem persisted. So today had the tie-rod bushes replaced with new polyurethane ones and - hey presto - problem solved!
Click to expand...

Which is what we discussed when you came over - I called it the compression rod. See Post 6.

Glad it's fixed.
 
Rob Gaskin

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Just to add that I don't think the compression rod bush is a very good engineering solution if poly bushes are used and tightened tight (like I had to do). I got away with it because my suspension travel was small but on a road or rally car it puts a lot of strain on the rod (it also stiffens the suspension a bit).

With rubber bushes there is 'compliance' .

A better solution is a proper joint which some folks on here have fitted.
 
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