Shell twist?

[Preecey240Z]

So I’ve got to replace Floors and bulkhead. do I need to brace the shell before removing anything to stop the frame from twisting? The car is on a rotisserie if this would make any difference. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jake

 

[uk66fastback]

I think it’s worth bracing what you can. Don’t remove BOTH the floors and bulkhead together unless it is unavoidable..

 

[Preecey240Z]

I think it’s worth bracing what you can. Don’t remove BOTH the floors and bulkhead together unless it is unavoidable..

okay thanks, I'll brace as much as I can and also take some measurements to double-check after everything is done.

 

[moggy240]

Good idea to bolt the front cross member back in aswell

 

[Mr.G]

All good suggestions and I'd also keep the doors closed.

 

[richiep]

As noted above, do the jobs one at a time. Don't go hacking both floors out at once. Do one side, then the other from start to finish.

My project car had both floors replaced, the RH chassis rail, battery tray area on inner wing, and sections of bulkhead for RHD conversion. I did the bulk of that work with the car on axle stands. I then moved it to the rotisserie (I made arms for the front end that run along outside the chassis rails and bolt to the front crossmember mounting points, rather than attach the rotisserie to the front bumper points). Once on the rotisserie, I then finalized work such as installation of the under floor supports, tidying the floor welds, etc. All was done without bracing, other than fitting the front crossmember and the gearbox crossmember during the phase when the car was on stands. Thus, the car was not hanging in mid-air by its ends with substantial sections removed.

Worth considering the above as another approach?

 

[Preecey240Z]

As noted above, do the jobs one at a time. Don't go hacking both floors out at once. Do one side, then the other from start to finish.

My project car had both floors replaced, the RH chassis rail, battery tray area on inner wing, and sections of bulkhead for RHD conversion. I did the bulk of that work with the car on axle stands. I then moved it to the rotisserie (I made arms for the front end that run along outside the chassis rails and bolt to the front crossmember mounting points, rather than attach the rotisserie to the front bumper points). Once on the rotisserie, I then finalized work such as installation of the under floor supports, tidying the floor welds, etc. All was done without bracing, other than fitting the front crossmember and the gearbox crossmember during the phase when the car was on stands. Thus, the car was not hanging in mid-air by its ends with substantial sections removed.

Worth considering the above as another approach?

Thanks the all the information. I think I’m going to brace the shell where I can. Bolting the gear box cross member back in is also a good idea thanks. I’ll definitely keep you all updated on how the floors pan out (excuse the pun ).

 

[richiep]

Yeah, the gearbox crossmember is an important one as once a floorpan has been removed, the tunnel has a tendency to contract/pull inward. The crossmember helps to diminish that, making things easier when getting the new floor positioned and trimming edges, initial welds made, etc. Of course, that is also effected by whether or/not you remove the front seat mount crossmember, which sometimes can be left attached at the ends while the pan is removed beneath.

 

[Preecey240Z]

Yeah, the gearbox crossmember is an important one as once a floorpan has been removed, the tunnel has a tendency to contract/pull inward. The crossmember helps to diminish that, making things easier when getting the new floor positioned and trimming edges, initial welds made, etc. Of course, that is also effected by whether or/not you remove the front seat mount crossmember, which sometimes can be left attached at the ends while the pan is removed beneath.

I’ll try to leave the seat mounts in place if possible.