S14 gearbox rebuild.

moggy240

Insurance Valuations Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Gearbox gears and bearings finally fitted, just need to work out how much I need to torque up the mainshaft and counter shaft nuts.
 

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jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
How much is 137-167 and 98-127 nm respectively. How is harder without the special tool.
I think I just did mine up as tight as possible!
 

toopy

Club Member
How much is 137-167 and 98-127 nm respectively. How is harder without the special tool.
I think I just did mine up as tight as possible!

Approx 100nm to do a wheel nut up more than tight enough, so pretty damn tight for the first quoted torque figure!
 

moggy240

Insurance Valuations Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Due to fact that I have had a bit of spare time I have finally finished my gearbox rebuild, gearbox is in, exhaust is on, rear diff is back on with the back lash slightly improved. So hopefully tomorrow I can take it for a test drive and see if everything works.
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Due to fact that I have had a bit of spare time I have finally finished my gearbox rebuild, gearbox is in, exhaust is on, rear diff is back on with the back lash slightly improved. So hopefully tomorrow I can take it for a test drive and see if everything works.

Well done.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Nice work Mr Moggy!! [emoji106] Looking forward to reading about the results!


So here’s a thought - except for oil changes, is there a “running-in” procedure for a freshly rebuilt ‘box?
 

moggy240

Insurance Valuations Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Took it for a quick drive today.
The throttle was sticking a little bit at first.
The gear box is sounds better through the gears and it all works, the backlash I had in the diff was much improved.
The only downside is that the gearbox is still noisy while idling unless I press the clutch and the noise goes away.
Not going to worry about that at moment.
 

Bazzateer

Club Member
Did you renew the spigot bearing and clutch when you fitted the box? The noise you describe sounds like the spigot bearing to me.
 

Bazzateer

Club Member
My Dad (retired engineer) always told my brothers and me to change the spigot bearing every time you change the clutch. So cheap it's always worth doing.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
the L engine doesn't normally have a spigot bearing, just a copper bush. I'd think its more likely to be the clutch release bearing.
 

Bazzateer

Club Member
the L engine doesn't normally have a spigot bearing, just a copper bush. I'd think its more likely to be the clutch release bearing.
Copper bush? If it fits in the end of the crank through the centre of the flywheel it's a spigot bearing and should be something like self lubricating phosphur-bronze - copper is too soft and will wear away very quickly.
The Haynes manual certainly mentions the spigot bearing with early ones requiring lubricating and later ones self-lubricating.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
In the Z world people more commonly refer to it as the pilot bearing but it’s the same thing.

You can buy roller versions of the same for racing applications but they do need servicing so not great for a road car.

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/21-2082


My first reaction was also clutch throw-out bearing, but the “spigopilot” bearing makes sense logically.
 
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