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Run without heater and blower?
- Thread starter Rob Gaskin
- Start date
My heater unit arrived today. It is a lot smaller (overall and especially the motor) so I'm hoping it is capable.
The fan will be much closer to the windscreen vents (about 6") than the original unit so I'm hoping that's where the efficiency gain will be.
Bear in mind that windscreen air on the original system is pushed through from the fan in the passenger footwell to the top of the 'box' and is then fed down through the matrix and out through the bottom outlets and then up through long ducts to the screen!
This new fan was bought because I can connect the intake to my scuttle intake. Many of the fans draw air from the cabin.
The fan will be much closer to the windscreen vents (about 6") than the original unit so I'm hoping that's where the efficiency gain will be.
Bear in mind that windscreen air on the original system is pushed through from the fan in the passenger footwell to the top of the 'box' and is then fed down through the matrix and out through the bottom outlets and then up through long ducts to the screen!
This new fan was bought because I can connect the intake to my scuttle intake. Many of the fans draw air from the cabin.
The water valve could be a good substitute for the standard Nissan unit too. It operates the same i.e. push the arm to close.
https://www.t7design.co.uk/brass-heater-valve-13mm-1-1147.html
https://www.t7design.co.uk/brass-heater-valve-13mm-1-1147.html
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Small update. I tested both systems and they blow about the same on full speed. Hard to measure however bear in mind that I have the Honda Jazz motor in the Datsun system and it was significantly better than standard.
The new motor is more noisy. Also the new motor output is best from the middle two vents (opposite the fan).
The Jazz motor pulls more current about 8 amps (I had a 10am fuse in circuit). Hard to tell exact figure on the Datsun gauge. The new motor pulls about 5a.
The Datsun temp lever works the new valve fine. The Datsun fan speed switch can be used but the polarity has to be reversed.
I will run straight water hoses from the engine bay - again a saving.
The new motor is more noisy. Also the new motor output is best from the middle two vents (opposite the fan).
The Jazz motor pulls more current about 8 amps (I had a 10am fuse in circuit). Hard to tell exact figure on the Datsun gauge. The new motor pulls about 5a.
The Datsun temp lever works the new valve fine. The Datsun fan speed switch can be used but the polarity has to be reversed.
I will run straight water hoses from the engine bay - again a saving.
Attachments
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Perhaps this is what you need. There are two - push or pull to bypass:
https://www.t7design.co.uk/tx2-heater-valve.html
Update.
I have been progressing this install - it's been slow but steady because I've done a lot of 'thinking' to get it right and it also involves changing a few things in the car but nothing that prevents it being returned to standard if wanted. Bear in mind that this is happening alongside electrical mods too. Also this is really hard to do in my garage because I can't get access to under dash places easily - try removing the airtube venting to the dash side vents when you can't even open the door fully!
So far I have:
Mounted the heater/blower unit using existing heater fixing locations and brackets from Wickes DIY.
Diverted the driver's side airtube intake direct to the the side vent. The control was stiff and after lubricating the cable it's fine now - how are your's? Can't get to the passenger side yet.
Completely redesigned the centre dash panel and removed all heater controls and venting.
Fitted the fan-speed knob where the cig lighter was. Cig lighter/power socket now where a radio would be.
Fitted the water valve knob (simple pull/push) to where my Hazards switch was. Hazard switch now in top centre of dash.
Removed my clock, fitted my voltmeter/fuel gauge (changed from ammeter) where the clock was. Then adapted my old ammeter shroud to a new air vent.
Bought a new plastic water valve and modified it so that the cable pulls inline with the hose and not at 90' to it.
In conclusion this install is so neat and simple compared to the original. The original is a masterpiece though and does provide versatility but takes up so much space. It also relies on all (lots) of plastic tubing to be in A1 condition, a decent fan and a non-leaking water valve. I also found the controls to be stiff and confusing.
I have been progressing this install - it's been slow but steady because I've done a lot of 'thinking' to get it right and it also involves changing a few things in the car but nothing that prevents it being returned to standard if wanted. Bear in mind that this is happening alongside electrical mods too. Also this is really hard to do in my garage because I can't get access to under dash places easily - try removing the airtube venting to the dash side vents when you can't even open the door fully!
So far I have:
Mounted the heater/blower unit using existing heater fixing locations and brackets from Wickes DIY.
Diverted the driver's side airtube intake direct to the the side vent. The control was stiff and after lubricating the cable it's fine now - how are your's? Can't get to the passenger side yet.
Completely redesigned the centre dash panel and removed all heater controls and venting.
Fitted the fan-speed knob where the cig lighter was. Cig lighter/power socket now where a radio would be.
Fitted the water valve knob (simple pull/push) to where my Hazards switch was. Hazard switch now in top centre of dash.
Removed my clock, fitted my voltmeter/fuel gauge (changed from ammeter) where the clock was. Then adapted my old ammeter shroud to a new air vent.
Bought a new plastic water valve and modified it so that the cable pulls inline with the hose and not at 90' to it.
In conclusion this install is so neat and simple compared to the original. The original is a masterpiece though and does provide versatility but takes up so much space. It also relies on all (lots) of plastic tubing to be in A1 condition, a decent fan and a non-leaking water valve. I also found the controls to be stiff and confusing.
The heater unit is in this position but not on those brackets - I've suspended it from above. Pics of that later but here are some to be going on with.
The centre section electrics will be connected via a multiplug and it will be easy to remove - there is so much space behind it now. I have cut off the bracket that went across the radio space (that a radio would butt up to). It's not needed by me and the dash doesn't need it for strength - it's rock-solid because it's bolted to the transmission tunnel anyway.
The only thing I'm unsure of is the Master-switch cabling. The master-switch was poorly mounted in the passenger footwell by their right knee. I couldn't reach it from the driver seat. I'd get in, put the full harness on, turn the ignition key and realise I hadn't switched it ON.
I want to keep everything simple and efficient so I'm tempted to take the main (thick) +ve lead from battery straight to the starter and put the master switch just on the feed from that i.e. all electrics apart from starting! My alternator is going to run straight to that starter terminal too. I don't need it to come into the cabin and out again (remember I've removed my ammeter). The master switch will still kill the engine because it's the FiA type and so alternator supply wiring will be cut. Not 100% sure yet but I don't like the heavy duty starter cable running through the bulkhead and on to my dash (as it did before).
I like the idea of a master switch switching everything off but do I really need to break into the starter circuit - this is not an 'out and out' competition car but a nice reasonably fast road car that can easily be used for 'soft' rallies (half roll cage, sumpguard, lsd etc).
The only thing I'm unsure of is the Master-switch cabling. The master-switch was poorly mounted in the passenger footwell by their right knee. I couldn't reach it from the driver seat. I'd get in, put the full harness on, turn the ignition key and realise I hadn't switched it ON.
I want to keep everything simple and efficient so I'm tempted to take the main (thick) +ve lead from battery straight to the starter and put the master switch just on the feed from that i.e. all electrics apart from starting! My alternator is going to run straight to that starter terminal too. I don't need it to come into the cabin and out again (remember I've removed my ammeter). The master switch will still kill the engine because it's the FiA type and so alternator supply wiring will be cut. Not 100% sure yet but I don't like the heavy duty starter cable running through the bulkhead and on to my dash (as it did before).
I like the idea of a master switch switching everything off but do I really need to break into the starter circuit - this is not an 'out and out' competition car but a nice reasonably fast road car that can easily be used for 'soft' rallies (half roll cage, sumpguard, lsd etc).
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As I stated before, the centre section of the dash and glovebox lid were spares.
This is progressing guys but other things have slowed me down (yes I know I was already slow!).
At the weekend I connected ducting to the unit and vents. I also wired in my Datsun fan switch - careful to reverse the polarity so that it feeds +ve to the motor and not -ve as was standard. Connected a battery (all my dash wiring is on my bench) and it worked fine. I'm very pleased especially with the centre vent in the usual three instrument cluster.
The ducting (55mm tubing) takes up quite a bit of space.
I connected straight heater hose to the unit and the engine along with my modified new valve. I positioned the unit so that the hoses have a straight run and slightly uphill to the bulkhead to avoid trapped air.
Pics to follow.
At the weekend I connected ducting to the unit and vents. I also wired in my Datsun fan switch - careful to reverse the polarity so that it feeds +ve to the motor and not -ve as was standard. Connected a battery (all my dash wiring is on my bench) and it worked fine. I'm very pleased especially with the centre vent in the usual three instrument cluster.
The ducting (55mm tubing) takes up quite a bit of space.
I connected straight heater hose to the unit and the engine along with my modified new valve. I positioned the unit so that the hoses have a straight run and slightly uphill to the bulkhead to avoid trapped air.
Pics to follow.