Rear axle fill plug.....

TimFZ

Club Member
I have had another attempt at the rear axle plug. No amount of heat, bars seems to shift it. In fact the plug is distorting, I don't mean "rounding off" the square, I mean the entire square is starting to twist.

Tried stilsons on the exposed thread as well, still nothing.

So I have run out of talent and tools to get it out and have to take it to the garage.

Anyone know a good UK source of a new fill plug which I can supply with the car for them to do it?

Cheers.
 

Farmer42

Club Member
I used a jack on a long breaker bar for mine. Jacked the car up, inserted the bar into the bung and put an axle stand under the end of the bar as low to the ground as you can get it. Then slowly let the jack down and used the weight of the car to move the bar it took a bit but finally moved.
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
I’m pretty sure the plug is simply a 1/2bsp” plug that could be replaced with one from a engineering supplies / hardware store for pennies.
 

TimFZ

Club Member
After realising it wouldn't move, had some issues getting the rear link back on. The two rear bushes moved apart so could not get the end caps back on. Had a long sash clamp which brought it back to position plus upward thrust from a jack. All back together. Booked in at garage on 30th so new plug and oil at same time. Need it working for show season (hopefully)
 

Bazzateer

Club Member
I used a jack on a long breaker bar for mine. Jacked the car up, inserted the bar into the bung and put an axle stand under the end of the bar as low to the ground as you can get it. Then slowly let the jack down and used the weight of the car to move the bar it took a bit but finally moved.
There's nothing to insert into, the fill plug requires a female square socket, like the ones I did a group buy for last year. Yours may have been previously changed?
Fill plug image:
images.jpeg
 

TimFZ

Club Member
Will see what the garage do. I only applied a little heat, worried about it being so close to fuel tank. Could do with one of those induction heaters for studs.
 

toopy

Club Member
I remember reading in a magazine years ago, probably Practical Classics, and some one had recommended that if you were under the car infrequently, when you were down there, to make the effort to crack open the fill and drain plugs a quarter turn before re-tightening, on both box and diff.
 

TimFZ

Club Member
I realised I never got back about this, the garage removed the plug with more heat etc and when out, replaced fluids. Then the disc cut the square drive on my old plug one size smaller so I can undo it again with a spanner. Good advice to move it every year so it doesn't sieze!
 

Makesy

Club Member
I put a little copper anti seize on the threads when I did the gearbox and diff on mine. Fortunately my plugs weren't too bad (and I wanted to try and keep it that way!)
 

Fairlineguy

Club Member
Give the housing around the plug some good amount of heat it will come out with easy.
I use a Map gas touch slip something up between it and the fuel tank or take the end cover off and heat it
 

Farmer42

Club Member
Been trying to get my fill plug out but decided to let a garage have a go up on a ramp. They couldn't budge it even with heat & a very long bar. They stopped as they were worried about cracking the casing.

Does anyone know how to identify what type of diff I have and where to get a secondhand end plate please? It's a 75 2+2 Fairlady Z but originally came with a 2.0 litre engine. Are the diffs different on JDM 2 litres?
 
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