Project Candy Begins (rb25det 240z)

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Have you tried to find out why the measurements were different? I'm thinking if it has accident damage then a measurement from the bulkhead might to safer to work with ?
 

Wally

Club Member
Have you tried to find out why the measurements were different? I'm thinking if it has accident damage then a measurement from the bulkhead might to safer to work with ?

I have but nothing is obviously glaring out. There's no crash damage to the left side that I can see evidence of, I've had a tape measure all over the place and everything squares up within tolerances. The chassis legs have had an extra strengthening layer added to them but holes were drilled where the original ones were. I'm stumped. Good job all the suspension is so adjustable so if something is off it should still align correctly [emoji1696]
 
Looking really smart that. Funnily enough that T7 aircon/heater matrix is exactly what i’ve got planned for my car!

What are you planning for the rest of the AC kit? Hoping to use the RB standard AC pump?

They're local to me, I might do the same, shall I see if they'll do a 'group discount'?
 

Wally

Club Member
so is it aps or zfm motorsport(ex zfarm since they last went under)? Or is out of the same chicken shed?

ZFM still trading. Aps is a different company but both working out of the same chicken shed. Andy who runs APS does all the metalwork for ZFM.
 

Wally

Club Member
@franky

Few more hours on Candy today. Finished off fitting the crossmember and diff cradle. All fits perfectly now.

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Decided to throw the dash and a chair in and started measuring up to see where I could fit the air con evaporator. The simpleton in me couldnt quite visualise it without an aid so I cut a box to the rough size. The box is slightly oversized and it fits nicely where the original heater sits at a slight angle. It's tight but what wouldn't be tucked behind the dash.

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This now gives me plenty of room at the top of the passenger footwell to fit the fuzebox and ecu as planned.
 

Wally

Club Member
Pretty slow weekend working on the car. Started stripping down the rb25det ready to have the block, head and crank sent to the machine shop. Got stuck with the crank pulley so waiting on a puller. Should be here tomorrow [emoji1696]

Engine appears to be in great condition. Nice crosshatching on the bores. This will be getting a lightish overhaul. New bearings, piston rings, gaskets, water and oil pump, arp headstuds, paint the block and generally clean and freshen everything up.

I'll be adding a few shiney bits but sticking to a black theme in the engine bay and upgrading to R35 coilpacks.

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A taste of what's to come.
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Wally

Club Member
I fitted that same air-con unit in the space behind the glove box and used it to feed the original heater/distribution box.
I swapped the twin 50mm outlets for a single 90mm.
I also hooked up a cable operated valve to the OEM heater control.

View attachment 39400

There are some more pics and details here:

https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/260z-hybrid-restomod.21987/

That's great news. Cheers Mark. How come you retained the original heater and didn't just use the heater within the aircon unit? I'll have a dig through your thread now.
 

Mark N

Club Member
That's great news. Cheers Mark. How come you retained the original heater and didn't just use the heater within the aircon unit? I'll have a dig through your thread now.

I didn't word that correctly, I removed the OEM matrix and heater valve then used the T7 unit for hot and chilled air to be distributed and controlled by the OEM unit/controls (I have a switch for the compressor clutch).
I also blocked off the outside supply as I figured that using the air-con or heater would be better when re-circulating the cabin air.
The windows will be used for fresh air.
 

Wally

Club Member
I didn't word that correctly, I removed the OEM matrix and heater valve then used the T7 unit for hot and chilled air to be distributed and controlled by the OEM unit/controls (I have a switch for the compressor clutch).
I also blocked off the outside supply as I figured that using the air-con or heater would be better when re-circulating the cabin air.
The windows will be used for fresh air.

Argh that makes total sense. Im hoping to find aftermarket switches that won't look too out of place to control the aircon/heater. I'm looking to put my fuzebox and ecu where you've got the evaporator so I'm hoping it fits nicely where the original was. I'll be blocking off the air supply as well unless I can find a way to channel it into the evaporator.
 

bigh

Club Member
Pretty slow weekend working on the car. Started stripping down the rb25det ready to have the block, head and crank sent to the machine shop. Got stuck with the crank pulley so waiting on a puller. Should be here tomorrow
emoji1696.png


Engine appears to be in great condition. Nice crosshatching on the bores. This will be getting a lightish overhaul. New bearings, piston rings, gaskets, water and oil pump, arp headstuds, paint the block and generally clean and freshen everything up.

I'll be adding a few shiney bits but sticking to a black theme in the engine bay and upgrading to R35 coilpacks.

da991567257727bd1a62a1b17ffa2ca8.jpg

d8475f4b8bb14f0f25979a1af5cf030d.jpg

1fe57c33bb27be1e4bfec9adf18142ea.jpg

A taste of what's to come.
cac42c6b242825482d0f8f04ca803587.jpg
Pretty slow weekend working on the car. Started stripping down the rb25det ready to have the block, head and crank sent to the machine shop. Got stuck with the crank pulley so waiting on a puller. Should be here tomorrow [emoji1696]

Engine appears to be in great condition. Nice crosshatching on the bores. This will be getting a lightish overhaul. New bearings, piston rings, gaskets, water and oil pump, arp headstuds, paint the block and generally clean and freshen everything up.

I'll be adding a few shiney bits but sticking to a black theme in the engine bay and upgrading to R35 coilpacks.

da991567257727bd1a62a1b17ffa2ca8.jpg

d8475f4b8bb14f0f25979a1af5cf030d.jpg

1fe57c33bb27be1e4bfec9adf18142ea.jpg

A taste of what's to come.
cac42c6b242825482d0f8f04ca803587.jpg

Looking forward to the progress on this.... (especially the shiny bit) what turbo and throttle body are you going with?
 

Wally

Club Member
Looking forward to the progress on this.... (especially the shiny bit) what turbo and throttle body are you going with?

I'm probably going to stick with the standard turbo. I think 300hp will be more than enough for this car but who knows [emoji2369] if I want more then I'll probably go for a hybrid. Although I do love those 6boost manifolds and a small twin scroll turbo [emoji23]

I'm building the rest of the engine and fuel system fuel system good enough for 450hp for if I ever decide to chase power. I'd just need to up the turbo and injectors. Anything more than that and I'd have to forge the engine for reliability.

For the throttle body I'm using a bosch 74mm drive by wire and an r35 pedal. I had originally wanted to use a smaller 68mm throttle body but it was too small for the plazmaman intake. Shoukd be OK though as it's dbw I'll be able to more accurately control the opening of the throttle body with the ecu so it's less like an on/switch.
 

Wally

Club Member
Well after a busy two weeks at work I'm back at the engine again. Anyone got a clue what the markings on the inside of the sump mean? Purhaps a date somebody last had it open?

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Wally

Club Member
One for the bearing gurus.

This this normal wear or is there something up?
All bearings are perfectly smooth.

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I’d say the last couple are knackered and the first ones you can see it starting, looks like the crank was off Center? I prob wouldn’t knock at that but lower oil pressure at idle? Well caught really
 

Wally

Club Member
I’d say the last couple are knackered and the first ones you can see it starting, looks like the crank was off Center? I prob wouldn’t knock at that but lower oil pressure at idle? Well caught really

I've got all new bearings to go in I was just debating on whether to have the block and main caps line bored and need bigger bearing shells.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
Mainly I'd be checking state of the crank journals - what do they look like?
why would you get it rebored? I think as long as you're getting the crank balanced and checked for straightness it should be fine.
 

Wally

Club Member
Mainly I'd be checking state of the crank journals - what do they look like?
why would you get it rebored? I think as long as you're getting the crank balanced and checked for straightness it should be fine.

You are totally right. Line boring is overkill. Crank is looking really good thankfully. Micrometer will tell though.

Pistons are all looking good too [emoji1696]

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