Over fuelling problem

candy red

Club Member
As title 280zx seems to be over fuelling struggles to idle and black smoke from exhaust,fuel pressure 40 psi when ignition on but not started.when started 36 psi.changed ic unit on distributor swapped fuel pressure regulator swapped,blanked off cold start injector,when the ignition is turned on and the fuel pressure is primed the regulator has a constant hiss from inside is this normal also after starting the pressure is at 36psi when switched off pressure gauge drops to zero instantly :(
Any advice welcome
 

Huw

Club Member
Hi Derrick.

Fuel regulator sounds like it’s operating properly and giving you the correct pressure as it’s dropping the pressure down when the engine is running properly. That hissing might be a slight vacuum leak maybe?

Enrichment on start up is via the cold start valve and thermotime circuit, so if that blocked off it’s not that. The AFM and temperature sensor (not the temperature sensor for the gauge) controls the mixture when running. Have you checked the voltages from the temp sensor and operation of the AFM? Attached is the EFI bible.

Huw
 

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  • 280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf
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candy red

Club Member
Hi Derrick.

Fuel regulator sounds like it’s operating properly and giving you the correct pressure as it’s dropping the pressure down when the engine is running properly. That hissing might be a slight vacuum leak maybe?

Enrichment on start up is via the cold start valve and thermotime circuit, so if that blocked off it’s not that. The AFM and temperature sensor (not the temperature sensor for the gauge) controls the mixture when running. Have you checked the voltages from the temp sensor and operation of the AFM? Attached is the EFI bible.

Huw
Thanks Huw
 

Huw

Club Member
Not something I have Derrick sorry. Found this on eBay if you can’t find anything, but pricy tho



s-l200.jpg

Look at this on eBay
Fuel Pump Relay AC Relay for Nissan 280Z 280ZX Nissan S130 200SX NOS NISSAN OEM
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Hi Derek are you sure the relay is faulty? If it was me I'd check it with a wiring diagram. I might even open it up to be sure.

I have two wiper relays which might be adaptable.

Also Jon's suggestion might work.

Let me know if you want me to help you.20211007_131819.jpg
 

Huw

Club Member
Hi Derrick. I didn’t ask. Why do you think this relay has gone duff?

It’s only there as a safety device so the pump will not run if for any reason the engine stops. It takes a feed from the alternator and oil pressure sensor. If either of them go open circuit the relay cuts the supply to fuel pump relay 1 and stops the pump. You can by-pass relay 2 by removing the unit and connecting a jumper direct from relay 2 input to its output pin. Obviously you lose the safety feature above but the pump will run with the ignition key in the run position.

Also if the ECU relay is not operating then the pump will not run with the key in run position anyway. But the pump will still prime the engine with the key in the start position.

Confusing isn’t it……
 

candy red

Club Member
:(
Hi Derrick. I didn’t ask. Why do you think this relay has gone duff?

It’s only there as a safety device so the pump will not run if for any reason the engine stops. It takes a feed from the alternator and oil pressure sensor. If either of them go open circuit the relay cuts the supply to fuel pump relay 1 and stops the pump. You can by-pass relay 2 by removing the unit and connecting a jumper direct from relay 2 input to its output pin. Obviously you lose the safety feature above but the pump will run with the ignition key in the run position.

Also if the ECU relay is not operating then the pump will not run with the key in run position anyway. But the pump will still prime the engine with the key in the start position.

Confusing isn’t it……

yes definitely confusing reason for changing this safety relay is that I’ve taken the cover off and looked at the rocker contacts when running ok ,then after running on tickover for 30 minutes it goes into over fuelling mode black smoke from exhaust and the contacts on the relay have changed position so going to change relay to be honest I don’t understand wiring diagrams .
 

Huw

Club Member
Hi Derrick

I honestly don’t think that’s the issue mate. The contacts swapping over is due to oil pressure dropping at idle and the relay flipping state. See the table below. I got my last response to you slightly incorrect. The pump will continue to operate if either the oil pressure drops or the alternator stops charging but will cut out if both drop out. So from what you describe it’s doing it’s job fine.

The relay does not control the mixture in anyway. What you are describing sounds like the ECU enriching the fuel mixture because of a bad signal from either the temperature sensor or the AFM. The ECU will enrich the air fuel mixture if the water temperature is below 80 degrees. The ECU will also enrich the mix if the air temperature as measured by the AFM is below 40 degrees. So I would firstly check the connectors are good to the temp sensor and AFM first. Then swap out the temperature sensor next. I have a spare one if you need it.

Also check the contacts on the throttle position switch are opening and closing at full throttle. One set of contact should be closed until the throttle is about a third open then the second contact set should close that should stop the ECU adding enrichment at high revs. The EFI bible shows how to adjust it. (Use the engine revs method as it’s most accurate)

Check the AFM flap is not sticking, push it with your finger to ensure it opens and closes smoothly against the spring and returns to the closed position. If it’s sticking slightly open at idle the engine will run rich.

Finally, if you have a spare ECU, try swapping it over. When you blew you fusible links you may have damaged the ECU. Unlikely but a possibility.

We can have a call on the weekend, Sunday is best if you need.

But that relay is not your problem, it’s the mixture staying rich.


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Mark N

Club Member
Have you checked the FPR is referencing vacuum?
Removing the vacuum hose should show the baseline fuel pressure of 36.3psi (depending on the accuracy of your gauge).
Refitting the hose should show a drop in fuel pressure as the vacuum in the plenum acts on the diaphragm in the FPR to maintain a constant pressure differential (of 36.3psi) between the fuel rail and plenum.
 

candy red

Club Member
Thanks for all your advice guys will be checking all these things out tomorrow appreciate all your advice :bow:
 
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