Hi,

I am a new owner of a Datsun 240z, 1971. California import. Needs restoration, mainly mechanical work, respray and interior work, minimal rust. Second Datsun 240z I brought, the first one had fake title and was taken by the californian high way patrol at the port. It took me over a year to get my money back but luckly enough i did. I have various classic cars in differing states of repair but the Datsun has got to be the most charming.

Last couple of weeks I have been sourcing various parts and I have had positive experiences with the z farm and mjpshop who have been helpful.

Has anyone got any recommendations of mechanics in the south east/london/kent borders who can work on Datsun 240z at a reasonable rate.

Regards
Taser

 

Hello pal, sounds like a nice project - throw any pics up if you have them to give us more of an idea of what's what. What are you going for - restomod or originality? What other cars do you have?
Fourways have a good rep I think ...
https://fourways-engineering.co.uk/classic-car-engine-building/

 

Where abouts are you? You sound like you could be pretty close to me. Although I don't do mechanical work for others as I'm way too busy myself, I can always offer advice.

 

Hi,
I live in Bromley, Kent.
Desperately trying to get the car started. Changed all serviceable parts, plugs, points, rotor arm, condenser, coil, cap. Used easy start down the carburetors, filled the float chamber with fuel and poured fuel in to the carbs. still nothing. car does not cougth or splatter. I am always on my own, so its difficult to check for a spark or the strength and turn over the engine.
Any advice would always be greatful.

 

Does sound like a spark issue if you poured fuel into the carbs and did not get a bang.
A remote starter is wonderful and cheap if you are a one man show.
May try to bypass the key switch and hot directly to the coil to see if you can get a spark.
Does the rotor turn with the cap off during cranking??

 

Hi, welcome and bravo for your persistence.

You don't need a Z specialist to get these things to work - they're very simple and any competent garage'll do.

It's a shame here on the forum that whereas people might reccomend* someone, others won't share their bad experiences* so I guess you'll have to judge by yourself.

*and this should be by personal experience and not ''I heard or think that......''

 

I have tried garages in the past, with other classics I own. They look at an old car that is a little rusty, dirty, interior shot, paint faded or anything unsual with contempt. I don't feel they know where to start or more likely they can't turn it around quick enougth to make money. Some of these young mechanics, struggle unless they can plug in and a fault code tells them where the fault is.

By the time you pay for car transportation, at least £200, both ways, 2-3 hours of a garages time you have spend £500 and very little to show for your cash. Or you do the work yourelf and get stuck on something and leave it for months or years.

By the sounds of it, it seems most likely cause of non-starting is an electrical problem. I'll try to figure out how to check for a spark, once I have recharged my flat battery, after a buy a recharger. Which I am sure I need now.

 

Rotor turns, with the cap off.
I'll try to earth one of the spark plugs while cranking over tomorrow morning.

Thanks for the advice

 

Another vote here for FOURWAYS ENGINEERING in Borough Green, Kent. By far the most busy S30-series Z specialist in the UK (no less than 10 cars receiving attention there just the other day) and pretty much on your doorstep.

I have to be honest, looking at your photos this car needs a LOT of work. It looks like a nice solid, mainly rust-free base to work from - even if it does appear to have panels from several different cars - and it should turn out really nice, but its going to take hundreds of hours and tens of thousands of Pounds to have it done by a professional business on your behalf. Have you got a budget in mind? I'm afraid the cost of a full body refurbishment and paint job might be a nasty surprise...

Many of us, myself included, tackle much of the mechanical work ourselves and try to 'project manage' the body/paint side of things to a pro bodyshop. These cars are fairly simple to take apart and put back together and you can do a lot of it yourself, which saves a ton of money. Then you can work on components in 'kit' form whilst the body is being done. Is that an option for you? You seem to have a lock-up garage, so you are ahead of the game for storage/cover at the very least!

I presume your photos are from when you first got it? In the engine bay shot I see that the fuel pump is disconnected. Just checking...

 

Have you checked for 12v at the coil and is it properly earthed, is the engine earthed!

Im in Beckenham, where in Bromley are you?

 

Hi,
I live in Hayes, but the car is garaged in swanley.
Next time I go to the car, I will Bring a muiltimeter and check for voltage and earthing. Battery is completely flat, so I am recharging the battery. I recently replaced the ignition switch, so ill check that to! Definetly no spark at the plug, so ill work backwards from the coil.

 

Also check the ballast resistor connections, or take it out of the circuit altogether and see if it starts then.

Dont leave it out long term though, as the points will degrade quicker and you may shorten the life of the coil.

 

Hi,
I replaced the ballast resistor and got a spark at the plugs. However, no combustion with easy start and fuel down the carbs. After a few attempts at trying to get it to start, the spark had gone again. I did notice that the leads around the condensor were very hot, I also tried to set the gap on the points by rotating the fan to get the high point on the cam not sure if i have messed with the timing.
I will by pass the the ballest resistor and try again, i thinking there is a bad connection some where hence the overheating connection at the condensor.