My 1990 300zxtt: My whip!

[nubbiecakez]

But it doesn't evaporate very quickly, and when it does happen it's usually pretty overwhelming for however long before it stops. Is that still steam? And it hasn't ever overheated. I hope it isn't the head gasket, thanks for the input.

 

[murt]

But it doesn't evaporate very quickly, and when it does happen it's usually pretty overwhelming for however long before it stops. Is that still steam? And it hasn't ever overheated. I hope it isn't the head gasket, thanks for the input.

Is the smoke completely white or does it have blue in it as well?

Also every mines ECU i have known has broken, causing the car to stop working after a while. Be warned!

 

[nubbiecakez]

The smoke looks completely white to me, i haven't noticed it coming out the past couple days though. I'm taking my car to Ahren's Z Car shop tomorrow and i'm gonna have him check the turbos, the fuel system if the turbos aren't the source, and a small list of small things that need to be fixed (Gauge Cluster- speedo inop until given a good knock, gauge lights which only come on dim not full strenght, odometer inop., back-up lights inop., my e-bakes been slippin gonna see if he can tighten it up, a small pwr steering leak i've know about but never got the source pin pointed, a/c- inop.)

Wish me luck, if things turn out for the best i'm hoping for a bill <$500

 

[nubbiecakez]

Bad news. My rear shocks are 100% gone. Any suggestions on what to replace them with?

 

[Russ]

I'm running KYB AGXs, seem quite a common choice and I like them. Like these

KYB AGX Adjustable Performance Shocks

 

[nubbiecakez]

Okay. Mechanic just called me back, all 4 shocks are done. I have the 2-way adj. suspension, so i don't think that link u gave me would work, the mechanic said i have to have the one that will work with the adj suspension or they jsut won't work right. know where i could find those? Also, my Nissan tech told me one (or both?) of the springs were cut to lower it, i think he said in the front. Will that affect my performance i.e. should i go ahead and get that fixed?Thanks for the input. How are the KYB GR-2 Shocks ($200), the tokico hp($300), the kyb agx ($350), and even though it's pretty out of my price rance the tokico illumina ($500). Are the illumina overkill for jsut regular street use and very light track use? They seem like something you'd put on a pure track car for $500 a set

 

[Russ]

I think a lot of the 240/260 guys (myself included) have Tokico Illuminas for fast road/track, not sure about on the 300 though.

The thing is adjustability I think. My experience of UK roads is that if your shocks are too hard they just wont last and will leak. Also there is no advantage to just going harder and harder. I'm sure you can soften the Illuminas enough, but I couldn't say for sure if on the road they are worth the extra $150. I know my KYBs are set around middway I think, so I've plenty of room to adjust them a bit more. Maybe the illiminas offer better adjustment hence the price, maybe it's just a fancier name/country of origin that makes them more pricey.

I've no idea what your mechanic means though You say you have adjustable suspension, I'm guessing adjustable top links and such. Put it this way I plan to use my KYB AGX shockers with some coilover adapters and fully adjustable suspension all round. Possibly someone more confident than me can say for sure if the shocks are totally wrong or your mechanic needs to pay more attention

I'd recommend the AGX because I've zero complaints about mine, the ride seems pretty good, it doesn't pogo around or jar you too much

 

[Mr.F]

Tokico HP are great and would be my budget choice of slightly uprated shocks. Could even get a set to you for about $320 plus shipping! If you have the electrically switched rate OEM shocks, the electrical switching won't work, but your suspension will be improved in all other respects!

I say no to cut springs! Properly manufactured lowering springs are usually fine, but cutting has no science involved to help you get it right...Also, if lowering and uprating, these items (i.e. springs AND shocks) should be done as a set of four.

 

[nubbiecakez]

okay, well apparently the prev. owner wanted to lower the car but didn't have the $ so he gettoed it. The mechanic said it won't affect anything, but in your opinion, considereing limited funds, should i bother getting them replaced with the shocks or will it not really matter or affect anything? I realize it's an improper mod, but how much are new springs? The labor is prolly gonna suck too. I think i am gonna get the tokico hp, found some on ebay for 275. They're gonna charge 450 to install all 4 shocks, and i'm gonna go ahead and fix some of the power steering leaks by having them install a NA pump and eliminate the HICAS. That's another 650. The other problems i listed earlier i haven't even gotten an estimate for yet. So if i get some of thoes problems fixed i'll be looking at an upwards of $2,000. Again, thanks for the input, i really appreciate it!!

P.S. after this i'll have spent about $8,000 on my z. i really love it but i feel i'm getting to the point of diminishing returns. just curious about comments on that. i really love the car and i don't wanna sell it and buy like an acoord or some lame shit. anyways, again thanks for the advice for the young z. also, my dad is getting my 86 300zx turbo's exhaust bolts that were broken off in the manny removed by his friend, so hopefully that'll be on the road soon too, maybe i'll be able to sell it for some repair money.

 

[nubbiecakez]

And if you think i should replace the springs, which do you suggest? I've been looking at tein, they have sompe pretty good looking springs and seem to be cheaper then most other brands

 

[nubbiecakez]

one last question. What's the stock ground clearance on a 1990 300zx? I'm considering the springs, and i want lowering springs, but i don't want it to be any lower than mine is currently, also i don't want it to be much higher i.e. i like the height it is now and want lowering springs that'll keep the car around the same clearance. Thanks again! Gonna order the shocks tonight and gonna talk to my nissan tech and double check if both or one of the springs was cut, if it was only one or probably even if it's both since it won't be any additional labor. Whats the optimum weight on each set of springs? Whats important to look for when getting new ones?

 

[nubbiecakez]

Waiting for my shocks to arrive still, but in the mean time i was wondering something. I heard replacing spark plugs with high performance plugs (namely bosch super 4) is a good and cheap way to squeeze a couple more horses out of the engine. What are the best spark plugs for the VG30DETT and would i have to upgrade the ignition wiring or anything else to get max power out of them?

 

[JakTheRuby]

If you use a Jap car with a Jap engine then use Jap plugs. It shouldn't add performance but will make the engine more efficient and will last longer / be greener etc. NGK all the way.

 

[nubbiecakez]

Okay, that makes sense. Do you know anywhere i could get a good deal on some or would ebay be trustworthy enough? I'm now also planning for some 4,300k HIDs once i have some money saved up again. Any suggestions on ebay kits, are they trustworthy or where should i go?

 

[JakTheRuby]

Go to their site and look for regional stockists. Then compare prices with ebay. If there's not much in it then take a gamble. Good luck with the saving (something that you haven't been able to do much since buying that WIP!)

 

[nubbiecakez]

Lol that's for damn sure. Well the shocks got here today, should have my z back tomorrow! About the HIDs, i want them to have a blue tint but i don't want them to be too blue and look too ricer. I heard 4300k is the best for visibility and i do a lot of night driving. Anyone know if they have a blue hue/tint or have pics of them on a 300? I searched google but couldn't get any good results.

 

[nubbiecakez]

Car feels much better with the new shocks. I'll have pics of the room left by the removal of the HICAS pump. That's likely where i'll put the pass ballista for my HIDs. Another question about HIDs though, i noticed their are 55w kits and 35w kits. The 55w are supposed to be aobut 40% brighter, the price difference isn't huge but i'm curious if that would fry my wiring or melt the housing. Anyone know? I'll have pics of the new shocks soon and engine bay.

 

[nubbiecakez]

Okay, since i won't have the time to play lacrosse this season like i had hoped, i came across some money. I ordered a 55w 6000k HID kit and wiring harness to be doubly sure i don't burn my wiring, from DDMlights.com. I also have some door sensors on the way to hopefully rejuvenate my security system. Unfortunately i am still getting smoke out the exhaust after being told the turbos are good from z mech, smoke still appears to be white but i'm beginning to believe it smells like burn fuel. Tomorrow i plan to remove the 4 decals off my cars since the sitllen ones are faded and the big "RPM Racing" over the pass. side is a lil ricer for my taste now, and the TubroXs in the middle of the windo just seems odd being the only other one one it, plus i don't want to be labled a riced once i get my HIDs, i fear i may have gone too high but they should look like 35w 5000k or lower due to the high wattage washing out the color or some crap like that. Pics are on the way lol, i'll have before and after of the hids if anyone is interested.

 

[Russ]

Pics pics pics!!!

Glad you've improved the handling

Have you thought about the wiring for the HIDs, usually people wire them so they stay on when you're on main beam. This is because they take a little while to heat up, so when you switch from dipped to main beam for a while when you dip to the HIDs again they're pretty blue/green/dark for a few seconds.

Mine used to do that, but I believe my Nissan relay has died

 

[nubbiecakez]

What's the difference between the dip and the main beam? The HIDs are waiting for me at my house (currently at school) but they're finally here! I got some pics of my car de-decaled, i think it's a lil less ricer and a bit classier. I also have some pics of the interior, still haven't done the doors tho, i'll take comparison pics of the lights tonight too, all i have to do is post them once i get them. Also, does anyone know a way to wire the back-up switch directly to the back-up lights? There's a broken wire somewhere in my harness and it's very unlikely i'll ever find it. I noticed when they installed my NA pump at the Z specialty shop, the installed the damn thing at a 45 degree angle and it looks like a peice of shit next to the motor i've worked so hard to doll up Anyways, i showed it to the service advisor and now i have to take it back in to have them fix the mistake. Sometimes i wonder how people can live with themselves... did he think i wasn't gonna notice? It looks so shitty and half-assed, anyways you'll see it in the pics once i post them. That means one more day i won't get to drive my Z, i think i'll get it fixed Mon. before they forget it was their doing. Relly pisses me off. And they said it'll be $500 to rplace my high-pressure A/C line... and A/C is kinda important here in FL, i think it's 85 already and it's only Feb. Anyways does anyone know what the going price is for that kind of part/labor? (Also got a quote to repair my driver's seat. 110 to repair and replace the red leather that makes the "z" $80 more if i want to get the pass. seat z color changed to match the interior better, which is probably what i'll do if i keep them, make both of the zs closer to the brightish red of the interior kit. However, i saw some on ebay, oem black with a red embroidered Z on the back reast instead of the seat which i really like the look of, if i can get them cheap enough i might jsut get 2 new seat covers and have them installed, i really don't want to fool with that seat i know it won't look right if i do. Anyone know any good/cheap places to get seat covers other than ebay?)