MOT Fail - Offside steering arm has relative movement at it's fixings

Russ

Club Member
Hi all,

car failed mot (predictably year after year, bloody cars) again yesterday morning.

This time he's written

"Offside steering arm has relative moement at it's fixings 2.2.b.1h"

Now I've had the wheel off and given everything a wiggle and it's solid, might be it's different when on a ramp suspended. There is a tiny amount of play not at the mounts, but as if you could turn the steering left and right maybe a degree, it's very little. I assume this is just slop in the steering and meant to be like that? The car has done < 30k miles. It's as if the bottom ball joint has a tiny bit of play but really it's more in the rack.

My friend took it for the MOT and didn't get anything useful from the guy so I'm guessing until I can see him next week I hope. He mentioned he had this in his 280zx and had to replace the entire steering rack!?

Is this something common or something I can adjust on a Z32? I'm keen to have a go at mending it tomorrow if I can so I can remot it before it runs out on Wednesday!

Thank you for your help,
 

Mr.F

Inactive
From the obtuse description from your MOT man, you may need one of the following:

Outer track (tie) rod end on steering rack - the bit that attaches the rack to the steering knuckle arm)
Inner track (tie) rod end on steering rack (the joint inside the rack gaiter).
Lower ball joint - may be allowing the steering knuckle to move...

The MOT test raises the wheels and then simulates the cars load by lowering the suspension onto a solid block - only then do some of the joints show movement - particularly the lower ball joint which is a common Z32 failure.

I have lower ball joints in stock. Steering joints would be to order.
 

tel240z

Club Member
Russ i think you should take the car back to him and ask to have the offending item marked with yellow crayon to be sure, also have a look at his mot equipment, the later testing ramps now have a shaker plate on the front that pulls and tugs at the front wheels and transmits a side to side action through the whole car, far more aggresive than with a pair of hands
 

Russ

Club Member
Hi,

Thanks guys. I'm thinking ball joint, or the one inside the gaiter. Will investigate further, might see if I can get the gater back later take a look. I guess the ball joint can't just be done up a bit more?

He does have some fancy MOT ramp, yeah he could have done me a favour and marked it, I'll get him to do it.

Cheers
 

RobZ32

Well-Known Forum User
Hi Russ

Most joint problems can be found without much in the way of special tools. You need a jack, some blocks, plus a pry bar and a helper to wiggle the steering wheel.

Use the bar to leaver against joints to test for movement being careful not to damage any rubber boots/covers. Some show movement with the car is down and others when jacked up try both ways.

With the car down but could be standing on a blocks if you need the space to get under. Have the steering wheel wiggled enough to slightly move the wheels and feel the track rod ends for play. There should not be any free movement at the change over from back to forwards of the rods (direction change should be instant this is easy to feel if you hold the joint in your hand). Also check the rack for mounting movement.

With the car up hold top and bottom of each road wheel and try to move it in and out (it should not move or feel clunky) even with a lot of force. Do the same holding each side, this time the wheels will start to move because of the steering but no play should be there at the change of direction.

Also with the car up pry bar under the tyre and lift up and down check all joints for play. Pay particular attention to the top link that joins back to the body. Also try pushing it side to side / front and back all with the car jacked up

Hope this helps you
 

Russ

Club Member
Thank you muchly Rob! I'll do some proper investigating. I think I need to get the technical section working properly and ass this to it as a guide :)
 
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