Modern S30 Project! 2nd stage Brakes and Suspension

VintageTech-Z

Well-Known Forum User
900ss said:
Steve, iz that the rear diff mount bar?
Should it not matter its mounted from the floor rather then those hangers ?

The bars in the last picture are ( horizontally) for sway bar mounts and then the ( vertical) bars act as the uprights that attatch to the bottom of the car as well as hold the back most bushings of the rear A-arms.
Beautiful parts by Dave there ! Quite the shame that the gas tank hides so much of that sweet alloy. I'd have to lay on my creeper and sip a beer whilst admiring onece in a while !:bow:
 

Wyn

Club Member
VintageTech-Z said:
The bars in the last picture are ( horizontally) for sway bar mounts and then the ( vertical) bars act as the uprights that attatch to the bottom of the car


Absolutely agreed m8y , does look the bollox fa sure :cool: , but is that set up as rigid as std?
Am I wrong in thinking that set up does away wit the org moustache mounts?
Not needed maybe?
 

VintageTech-Z

Well-Known Forum User
900ss said:
Absolutely agreed m8y , does look the bollox fa sure :cool: , but is that set up as rigid as std?
Am I wrong in thinking that set up does away wit the org moustache mounts?
Not needed maybe?

Its hard to see the mounts at those camera angles, but the mounting points remain much the same position as the original spring steel mustache bar.
As far as "Strength" goes......I'm not a metalurgist, however he has used the proper thickness suitable to replicate steels shear/load specs.
Nice bits for the ol' Z !:D
 

Wyn

Club Member
VintageTech-Z said:
Its hard to see the mounts at those camera angles, but the mounting points remain much the same position as the original spring steel mustache bar.

I has lost it then :conf2:

DSCF0713.jpg


That shows the moustache bar, but a good few inch too short
Shorley that bar should be bolted to the floor rather then the drop down bars? :conf2:
 

zeeman1972

Well-Known Forum User
Hi Wyn,

The Moustache bar is not shown in this picture.

DSCF0713.jpg


The bar shown above replaces the bar behind the diff shown in this photo

IMG_4367.jpg


This enables the late 280ZX finned rear diff cover to be fitted to the R200

mini-braceinstalled2.jpg


I'm going for the finned cover with my Quaife ATB diff for the increased oil capacity and passive cooling capability. It probably doesn't need either the additional oil or cooling or any of this flash stuff for that matter, but it helps with my new addiction to billet aluminium!:devil: :devil:
 

Mr.G

Club Member
Very nice Steve! The project looks to be coming along nicely. I would love to do it your way but in the meantime I need to stick to a fairly modest budget which will probably mean looking for a 260Z Moustache bar to mount my R200 - when my R180 dies that is.
 

zeeman1972

Well-Known Forum User
MrG240Z said:
when my R180 dies that is.

Do they ever die?

I will have an R200 moustache bar coming available soon from my 79 260Z (the totally rust free bar from the 280Z will be going on it) however I will also have a spare R180 with CV shafts kicking about soon too?
 

Mr.G

Club Member
I remember reading a post by Nick AKA Zed2K and his R180 blew up on a track event - his car i think had 220hp at the time.
 

Wyn

Club Member
Anyone know when the std shafts let go?
Where is the weak link in them?

UJ or the odd bearing/slider arrangement part?
 

zeeman1972

Well-Known Forum User
900ss said:
Steve
Remind us again of the expected power output :D

OK I wasn't suggesting that I would use one as I am going with overkill engineering in most applications, ahem!:D But there are a number of V8's using them in the US.

MrG240Z said:
I remember reading a post by Nick AKA Zed2K and his R180 blew up on a track event - his car i think had 220hp at the time.

Good grief, that doesn't seem a lot of umph to destroy a diff! I had been led to belieive that it was normally continued abuse that does these things in rather than out and out power ie a standard S30 could destroy one given enought rough handling? Be interesting to know what the weak point of the diff is though, CWP or something else?

900ss said:
Anyone know when the std shafts let go?
Where is the weak link in them?

UJ or the odd bearing/slider arrangement part?

I have only ever read about them going at the UJs???
 

HOUSEQUAKE

Well-Known Forum User
Suggestion...

...as you have not got these bits on your car yet, why not let me try them out for you?

We could fit them tomorrow and I can trial the parts on a no return basis :D









...I'll get me coat :cool:
 

funkjunky

Active Forum User
Steve

Have you moved enough stuff around in your aircraft hanger of a garage yet to make room for some more bits ?
 

zeeman1972

Well-Known Forum User
Hi Ian,

All the Z's well I hope:)

Funnily enough yes, its just taken me 4 days boxing and tidying to rediscover the garage floor, I knew it was there somewhere!
 

ARZ

Forum User
Anyone know when the std shafts let go?
Where is the weak link in them?

The weak link is the u-joint itself, especially the cross drilled type. If your concerned about strength get the non-lubricatable type u-joint as they are not drilled.

That being said, two of us here in Arizona are well over 500 RWHP mark with no problems with the stock design half shafts. Both of us have a completely reworked driveshaft that our motor swap required. U-joints have let go but only during dragstrip launches AT THE DRAGSTRIP.
 

Phantom

Active Forum User
Concurr with ARZ on his U-joint assessment. It does seem, however, that he is talking about the driveshaft, not the half-shafts. I have had no problems with the U-joints on my drive shaft. They are built like tanks. I did, however, break one on my drivers side half-shaft. I think that under normal driving this would not have happened but the LS1 under power can induce some significant wheel hop during hard accelleration and I think that is what did mine in. THat is why so many have gone to the CV conversion and is also where I am eventually headed.
 
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