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LD32 Engine build
- Thread starter jonbills
- Start date
Today's interesting discovery is that the LD block has none of the water channels through to the head on the oil filter side that the L28/F54 block has.
This is the LD block with a petrol gasket laid on it.
The blue paint spots are where my F54 block has water holes that are missing from the LD28. It looks easy enough to drill out the same holes.
Except, the big one at the right front of the block - on the F54 block this is a bypass - it returns water direct to the inlet of the pump for when the thermostat hasn't yet opened. On the LD block it's not possible to make this bypass, so I'll go without.
You can also see in the 2nd photo that the LD timing cover has the bolt holes for attaching the head in different places, so I'll have to get some lugs welded to the timing cover.
This is the LD block with a petrol gasket laid on it.
The blue paint spots are where my F54 block has water holes that are missing from the LD28. It looks easy enough to drill out the same holes.
Except, the big one at the right front of the block - on the F54 block this is a bypass - it returns water direct to the inlet of the pump for when the thermostat hasn't yet opened. On the LD block it's not possible to make this bypass, so I'll go without.
You can also see in the 2nd photo that the LD timing cover has the bolt holes for attaching the head in different places, so I'll have to get some lugs welded to the timing cover.
For the record, the plan is then to keep the 83mm diesel stroke and bore/sleeve it out to 89 or 90 mm depending on what pistons I get. That'll give a displacement of between 3.1 and 3.2 litres.
the LD block is 227.45 mm tall I understand, so that means I can use 150 mm rods.
227.45 - 150 - (83/2) = 35.95 for the piston compression height.
Kameari have some nice forged pistons at 89.5mm bore and compression height of 35.5 which are favourite at the mo. They'd need the block skimmed about 0.5mm.
the LD block is 227.45 mm tall I understand, so that means I can use 150 mm rods.
227.45 - 150 - (83/2) = 35.95 for the piston compression height.
Kameari have some nice forged pistons at 89.5mm bore and compression height of 35.5 which are favourite at the mo. They'd need the block skimmed about 0.5mm.
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Thanks Ali - Yes, I think it's probably that, or just oil spill into waterways when the head was taken off by the OP, but better safe than sorry.
I've got a second block if this one fails, so not a problem, just a bit of a faff to get it out of the shed and dismantle it.
I'm told my LD crank has now been on a crash diet. It's down from 22kg to about 17kg.
Not as svelte as some, but a fair saving.
No photo though
I reckon I'll be going for this XTD flywheel and clutch. I read on hybridz.org that RB stuff can be made to fit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192881268430
Not as svelte as some, but a fair saving.
No photo though
I reckon I'll be going for this XTD flywheel and clutch. I read on hybridz.org that RB stuff can be made to fit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192881268430
I'm told my LD crank has now been on a crash diet. It's down from 22kg to about 17kg.
Not as svelte as some, but a fair saving.
No photo though
I reckon I'll be going for this XTD flywheel and clutch. I read on hybridz.org that RB stuff can be made to fit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192881268430
Nice to hear you’re not leaking Jon [emoji12]
How did they lighten that crank? Is it just a regrind with the added benefit of weight savings or lightened on purpose? If the latter, how is it done without weakening it?
On the clutch, aren’t those “puck” clutches supposed to be a bit of a handful? I have no experience, but interested to know your thoughts?
it's deliberate lightening of the counterweights, done in a lathe, along the lines of the one you can see here: https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/5359-l28-crank-weight/
I read some suggestion that lightening weakens them but it didn't make much sense to me, so I discounted it. the rods and pistons are about 0.5kg lighter than the stock diesel ones, so it makes sense to at least take that much off per cylinder.
I've heard that about those 6 Puck clutches too. I may try to buy just the flywheel and put a stock 350z clutch on it.
I read some suggestion that lightening weakens them but it didn't make much sense to me, so I discounted it. the rods and pistons are about 0.5kg lighter than the stock diesel ones, so it makes sense to at least take that much off per cylinder.
I've heard that about those 6 Puck clutches too. I may try to buy just the flywheel and put a stock 350z clutch on it.
Interesting point on the crank, I’ve learned something new! [emoji106]
Food for thought: Mr F was telling me to do a similar thing - 280zx 2+2 turbo clutch disc with a heavy pressure plate. He was saying the reason they slip isn’t the clutch material itself but the pounds per square inch on the clutch face (which of course makes perfect sense). He reckoned that would provide a good balance of clamping force but with the progressiveness of a normal clutch.
As it happens I went for the stock 2+2 280zx turbo clutch and pressure plate and so far it’s taken the abuse well. On what you’re building though that approach is probably not man enough.
Food for thought: Mr F was telling me to do a similar thing - 280zx 2+2 turbo clutch disc with a heavy pressure plate. He was saying the reason they slip isn’t the clutch material itself but the pounds per square inch on the clutch face (which of course makes perfect sense). He reckoned that would provide a good balance of clamping force but with the progressiveness of a normal clutch.
As it happens I went for the stock 2+2 280zx turbo clutch and pressure plate and so far it’s taken the abuse well. On what you’re building though that approach is probably not man enough.
yeah I saw it, it was a billet Crower 90mm crank I think. I wish they'd shown more detail on the block prep!
Alphabettispaghetti
Club Member
who are you using for it?
Mark N
Club Member
RIP crank, did it say COVID-19 on the cert?