Just bought our first Z (240Z)

Woody928

Events Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Just been reading through the last few posts, it really is a lovely car, looking good mate :thumbs:

Out of interest, whats the manifold/header, cant say ive ever seen one that looks quite like that?

Cheers dude, we're making progress I'm just trying to forget about my bank balance and doing sensible things like saving for a house deposit :willynilly:

I'd have to go through the US invoices to confirm as I know its in there however I believe its an off the shelf MSA job. Similar to the one linked below:

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19c/15-6012

The current system is very much off the shelf headers and homemade all the way back from there. It isn't pretty and I'd love to replace it when funds allow but that's a way off.
 

Ian

Club Member
Car is looking good, I like the upgrades.

Ride height looks good although I'd be tempted to level it off my raising the front or lowering the rear slightly. But remember if you alter it you'll have to get your alignment setting redone in order for them to be perfect.
 

Woody928

Events Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Car is looking good, I like the upgrades.

Ride height looks good although I'd be tempted to level it off my raising the front or lowering the rear slightly. But remember if you alter it you'll have to get your alignment setting redone in order for them to be perfect.

Thanks man, just trying to work out which waw around to do it, I think the rear still looks too high albeit the front may be a little low.

Fortunately the guys at WIM told me I could go up or down 1cm from where its currently setup without really affecting the suspension geometry so I would think that's enough to play with.
 

Woody928

Events Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Well in other news, while the car has been stuck in the garage for the last few weeks owing to this miserable weather I've been making good progress with collecting parts for the transmission upgrade with things starting to fall in to place. My very mucky looking S14 gearbox turned up in the post today, will be talking about having it rebuilt with a local gearbox specialist tomorrow hopefully.

For those with this conversion I now have the gearbox and a 260Z five speed bell housing to be machined. I know that I'll need to modify/replace the gearbox mount and shorten the prop however is there anything else I should be getting? Just thinking silly little items such as a new Clutch fork boot as linked below? Is everything else reusable?

https://zcardepot.com/clutch-fork-boot-oem-240z-260z-280z-280zx-72-83.html

This has been my guide so far: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/Transmission2.htm

I've also since acquired a Subaru R180 3.9 Suretrac LSD, and am currently waiting on stub axel production in the US to get those on their way over. While doing the conversion I've been kindly reminded that this may be a sensible upgrade so will need to order one of those as well. The long parts list continues.

https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html

I've also finally decided upon a flywheel and clutch combo and looked to Japan in the end following some very helpful input off of here. I've therefore got an OS Giken single plate clutch/flywheel on its way over. Weighing in at 10.7kg for the whole assembly I'm hoping the car will rev more freely and I'll have future proofed against any engine upgrades to come (rated to nearly 400bhp) while keeping a nice pedal pressure.

https://www.rhdjapan.com/os-giken-s...minum-cover-gc10-hr30-c110-c210-s30-s130.html

As if there wasn't enough else going on back at the end of January I asked Ztherapy to put me on their waiting list so that I could completely refresh my carb setup with it more than showing its age in places. Hopefully as of May I'll have new carbs, euro style balance tube and fuel rail heading over the Atlantic to be fitted. I was tempted to use the opportunity to look into a triple carb setup of some description however looking at the cost implications, the fact that I only have a very stock engine setup and insurance implications (the joys of being young) I've strayed away for now. I'm hoping this will more than meet the cars current needs and when the time comes at a later date I can decide upon an engine and triple carb setup to suit.

Current plan is to have all of this done so that the car can be enjoyed to its full potential on its way down to the LMC this year EXTRA:D

IMG_5575 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr

IMG_5563 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
 

IbanezDan51

Well-Known Forum User
Hey Woody, great car and great write up so far. So well documented and written, another credit to you.

Did you pull the rear cover to ensure its a 3.9? I bought 4 diffs advertised as a 3.9 before finally getting one - and then bought a spare which also turned out to be another 3.54

Dan
 

Woody928

Events Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Hey Woody, great car and great write up so far. So well documented and written, another credit to you.

Did you pull the rear cover to ensure its a 3.9? I bought 4 diffs advertised as a 3.9 before finally getting one - and then bought a spare which also turned out to be another 3.54

Dan

Thanks dude that's much appreciated :) I'm glad to hear people are still reading and enjoying it. As much as anything else its good to be able to look back and see the progress that's been made.

Good point and you're not the first to mention this, I've not got around to it yet however you've given me the kick I need to hopefully find time this evening. I'm pretty confident as it came from a reputable Subaru specialist in Ireland however there's no harm in checking to confirm as that would be a right Pita otherwise!
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Woody, you could do a quick check on the ratio by marking the outputs and input, holding the outputs and rotate those together (i.e. no diff action) and count turns on the input shaft. I suggest you do about 5 turns of the output shafts which should result in 19.5 turns of the input. If it was 3.54 it would give 17.7, if it's a 4.4 it would give 22 etc etc.
 

Woody928

Events Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Woody, you could do a quick check on the ratio by marking the outputs and input, holding the outputs and rotate those together (i.e. no diff action) and count turns on the input shaft. I suggest you do about 5 turns of the output shafts which should result in 19.5 turns of the input. If it was 3.54 it would give 17.7, if it's a 4.4 it would give 22 etc etc.

Thanks Rob, I'll try and crack it open first as it seems the sure fire way to find out however if not then I'll give that a go :thumbs:
 

Woody928

Events Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Good news chaps, I've now finally got it open and had a look and it is a 39:10 so we're all good :hurray:

A couple of questions for those of you in the know given my limited to non existent knowledge of diffs though having now had a good look. Are these welds factory or has someone been making amends? and also when rotating the diff before the teeth engage there is a ever so slight bit of play so to speak before it engages, is that normal?

IMG_5584 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr

IMG_5592 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr

IMG_5590 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
 

DonMuscles

Well-Known Forum User
You will need new headlights as the angle the light leaves the unit is determined by the glass, or the reflector if you go for more modern replacements. The adjustment screws are for just that, adjusting the left/right/up/down slightly so they aim correctly but that's it, there's not enough movement to shift the beam pattern from LHD to RHD requirements.

In the rear clusters a yellow bulb/led should be sufficient to pass an MOT, unless you happen to get a jobsworth! some re-wiring still required tho i believe, because US indicators are also part of the lights i.e. not just indicators as in the UK, atleast i think that's right?!
NOS clusters or remanufactured ones are very expensive and as far as i know not available in the UK, you can buy the required lenses seperatley, but again, not in the UK and not cheap either! You can of course source used ones, but availability is hit and miss, as is condition.

Great looking car :thumbs:

I have a set of 240z rear lights in good condition.

Uk spec.

Also with the tail light panels.

Also good condition.

Let me know if you need them.

I do not need them so can let you have them at cost.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
I can’t help with the welds, but a little bit of slack (lash) is normal and even required. From memory, something like 0.5mm but could be wrong [emoji3]
 

Woody928

Events Officer
Staff member
Club Member
I can’t help with the welds, but a little bit of slack (lash) is normal and even required. From memory, something like 0.5mm but could be wrong [emoji3]

Ahh thank you, that makes some sense. Well having done a google I've seen several others with the same welds so looks to be like that cam that way from the factory. Should be fine, that's a big relief.

I've got the gearbox going to a local gearbox specialist tomorrow so hopefully we'll quickly find out what state the internals are in :)
 

Jay.

Club Member
Nice progress Woody! I think I'll have to buy a new diff as it makes a bit of noise on overrun :(
 

Steve Williams

New Forum User
I have a set of 240z rear lights in good condition.

Uk spec.

Also with the tail light panels.

Also good condition.

Let me know if you need them.

I do not need them so can let you have them at cost.
Hi I have just joined the site and in the process of restoring my first z I will need uk tailights as mine is a us car do you still have them for sale ?
Cheers steve
 

Woody928

Events Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Well more news, some good and some bad. I'm definitely learning the joys of classic motoring having had my second breakdown in the car now. Enjoying some of the first sunshine we've had in months a few weeks back I completely lost the clutch on a short drive out. Fortunately being local at the time my dad got called out and the same tow rope that saved the car in Caen also towed me home this time.

Following investigation it turned out that the slave cylinder seals had failed and the cylinder was quite literally pissing clutch fluid all over the floor every time the clutch was being used. The pool of fluid on the lock up implied it had been leaking for a little while before the complete failure, we were just unaware. I also noticed salt attacking the new suspension from our unfortunate incident being stuck out in the Snow with Goodwood, having cleaned and oiled everything to halt any damage I've now picked up ACF50 which has been generously applied over all of the adjustable parts to attack/prevent any corrosion, and provide a layer between the parts and the road grime.

New OEM slave cylinder, master cylinder and slave cylinder hose ordered from the US which finally arrived last Friday in the hopes to have the car roadworthy for Doninigton. On Saturday we managed to get the new slave cylinder and hose fitted and bled the system to see if it fixed the car, the Haynes manual did us proud. While messing around I also got the BC spanners back out to mess around with the ride height to try and get the car more balanced from an aesthetics point of view. Also having the front end of the car flying in the air we got around to the long overdue task of removing the front bumper to detach the over riders before refitting the bumper, I need to get some 14mm blanking grommets however it already looks a lot smarter in my opinion.

A quick road test revealed the clutch was back in business and I thought we were back on track for Donington however the car was running rough and not firing on all cylinders, an oily plug cleaned up and that was resolved. Thinking we may be finally be in for a break to add insult to injury we now have a coolant leak from the front of the engine. I'm currently speculating that the water pump is on its way out however there's also some oil that's falling onto the alternator belt and being sprayed in the engine bay as well. We're therefore going to be getting some slightly more professional help with concerns over the engine.

While this is all being worked out and analysed I've heard last week on return from my holiday that the S14 gearbox we picked up has wear to the second gear and won't be suitable. I'm currently making various inquiries about replacement gearboxes or gear sets however no luck as of yet. The only positive news is we are running out of things to replace in the engine bay so fingers crossed it'll be all sorted for this summer!

A few pics, kind of forgot to take a few as I went However here's a few:

IMG-5935 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr

Oily mess lurking below
IMG-5942 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr

Out with the old and in with the new
IMG-5947 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr

Low light, done for the day with the ride height adjusted and over riders removed
IMG-5967 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr

IMG-5973 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr

A question to those with far more knowledge, any ideas what this bronze shiny stuff is that has appeared in the rad? Should I be concerned?
IMG-5974 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
 
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