Jay's RB25 240z | Page 7 | The Z Club of Great Britain
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Jay's RB25 240z

Discussion in 'Hybrid Z cars' started by Jay., Sep 4, 2017.

  1. Jay.

    Jay.
    Z Club Member

    Unfortunately it doesn't seem there's any decent exhaust places near me! Every one that I phoned up didn't have an on-site welder - what?!

    I found a small classic car restoration company ~10 mins away from where I live and I booked in there. An outside ramp!

    [​IMG]

    Took <30 minutes to get the exhaust brackets re-welded and some new bushes/bolts. Happy to say that after a quick blast around the Cotswolds it has stayed on :):)
     
    toopy, Ian and Woody928 like this.
  2. Jay.

    Jay.
    Z Club Member

    I've got a couple more weeks off work and the weather was surpringly good - whilst I wasn't really in the mood to drive I decided to start tackling the Dynamat/sound proofing.

    This is just the rear hatch area, and I plan to remove more trim and go up the side, and then move onto the front where I'm hoping to cover the entire floor area, the transmission tunnel and the firewall!

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Ian

    Ian
    Z Club Member

    Don't think you'll ever hear me say that, if it a good dry day I can't wait to go for a drive in the S30. But then I'm only home around 3 months each year so I don't get to drive as often as you.



    You you don't have to have 100% coverage of the deadening material for it to be effective? if you want to save weight. You'd have better results with less coverage with the butyl but instead covering that with some foam and in certain area a vinyl over the top of the foam.

    I aim to keep weight low in mine while still having it pleasant to use on long trips. I plan to use the buytl on each panel with around 25% coverage and then cover that in certain high noise areas with a dual foam vinyl layer. It will be as light as possible while still being very effective.
     
  4. Jay.

    Jay.
    Z Club Member

    I'd be the same 9/10 times too! But it was out of an MOT and I didn't fancy doing the small bits required to get it to pass at the time :p


    Initially I had planned something similar - just putting the minimum required to get the metal to stop vibrating - but apparently full coverage still gives an increase (albeit not as good as the initial 50% coverage).

    To be honest I'm not hugely bothered about weight (in total it'll add no more than an extra 12kg of weight by doing the entire thing) and I want it as quiet as possibl. Plus it appeals to me a lot more.


    Are you putting any thermal lining in at all? I'm thinking of putting some on the firewall and trans tunnel as I can feel the heat during the summer months which doesn't help the cabin temperature at all!
     
  5. Ian

    Ian
    Z Club Member

    The dual butyl and foam deadener I will be using also blocks heat so it will be around the turbo/exhaust side. I also have gold heat reflective tape on the underside where the exhaust passes close to the chassis, I find this to be very effective.
     
  6. Woody928

    Woody928
    Z Club Member
    Staff Member Moderator

    Is that Silent Coat?

    I'd like to do something to mine bearing in mind how thin the metal is and how much noise it makes on longer journeys. Not so fussed on the B roads but not so great while cruising...
     
  7. Jay.

    Jay.
    Z Club Member

    What brand have you gone for? I was thinking of just using the Dynamat line but they're significantly overpriced
     
  8. Jay.

    Jay.
    Z Club Member

    Yep, I spoke to the guy who owns caraudiosecurity and he swore by it even though he sells both Dynamat, Silentcoat and other brands. He reckons they're all pretty much the same but the SilentCoat is slightly cheaper and the 4mm option is ideal


    Drove the car to the MOT station with just the rear section complete (as in the picture), and it's already made a decent difference. I didn't expect to be able to tell as it was behind me and still a lot of uncovered metal - but I'm thoroughly impressed!!
     
    Woody928 likes this.
  9. uk66fastback

    uk66fastback
    Z Club Member

    I did my fastback in Dynamat and it made a difference to the heatsoak but not the sound, but it was basically too loud whatever you would have used.
     
  10. Ian

    Ian
    Z Club Member

    I have silent coat Butyl and Dodo Mat for the mass loaded vinyl.


    lots of big flat panels back there, they act as drums, so not surprised you noticed the difference as the deadening will have stopped them resonating.
     
  11. Mole

    Mole Forum User

    Great info,I imported a VW campervan 10 years ago from San Diego and it was fairly simple,just the waiting for it to turn up and hoping it wasn't a bag of nails !
    Has anybody imported from Australia/Japan (RHD) ?

    I've had a look around on the net and found a few sites with Zeds for sale but not many.

    Can anybody help on sites/sources please ?

    Thanks Steve...
     
  12. uk66fastback

    uk66fastback
    Z Club Member

    Gotta be RHD has it?
     
  13. Mole

    Mole Forum User

    I would prefer RHD drive yes...I don't know why,my campervan is a left hooker,I think it's because the RHD's are out there, in their motherland and in most cases they seem to be well looked after..
     
  14. Robbie J

    Robbie J
    Z Club Member

    I have a few contacts in Auz but the cars are not cheap
     
  15. Robbie J

    Robbie J
    Z Club Member

  16. Jay.

    Jay.
    Z Club Member

    Unfortunately RHD cars seem to have about a 5-10k+ premium which (imo) isn't really worth it - I actually enjoy the LHD aspect of the car, gives it another element of "different"

    Japan would be your best bet if you wanted to import a RHD car.. Otherwise looking for a UK model and setting aside a bunch of money for a restoration would probably be quicker.

    Last (and what I'll be doing) alternative would be to convert a LHD to RHD. Vintagedashes are working on a RHD repro dash, and the rest of the parts can be sourced/custom made for significantly less than the price of a genuine RHD
     
  17. Jay.

    Jay.
    Z Club Member

    Oh and in regards to 'finding' a car - I used the following places:

    www.ebay.com (for obvious reasons)
    https://www.searchtempest.com/ (which searches all Craigslist adverts - a lot of really good deals out there but very hard to use as people want local sales)
    Facebook (by far the easiest place to find and buy a car IMO - when importing communication is so important and this obviously makes it significantly easier
    hybridz.org (used to be a really active forum)
    classiczcar.com
     
  18. Robbie J

    Robbie J
    Z Club Member

    that's how I found my $3k car in California... you need Mike to do the local deal and ship it
     
  19. Jay.

    Jay.
    Z Club Member

    Yep if you have someone in the States that can do this, that's the best way to get a "deal" - any of the other places will be "fair" at best as everyone is on the lookout.
     
  20. Mole

    Mole Forum User

    Thanks for that Jay.
    I would probably stay away from a UK car as I think the odds of finding a good one i.e. straight, unbutchered, and not rusting(somwhere) are few and far between.
    Your way is good if you're prepared to do/wait for the coversion,at least you know the car is solid which is a good base to start from.
    Just this moment come across a site called JDM-EXPO.com very interesting stuff indeed,a Japanese company dealing in classic stuff specifically,it's more of these sites I need to find.
    Cheers mate
     

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