I'm going 1JZ | Page 10 | The Z Club of Great Britain
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I'm going 1JZ

Discussion in 'Hybrid Z cars' started by Russell, Dec 28, 2016.

  1. johnymd

    johnymd
    Z Club Member

    I've started back on the blue car. Planning on finishing the chassis wiring this week. I'll use the coil feed from this to control a relay that powers the engine loom. I've had a stand along engine loom built so I should be able to run the engine on the floor with just a 12v feed and start switch.
     
    Russell likes this.
  2. Russell

    Russell
    Z Club Member

    Small update on the speedo. I am happy enough with the code to start packaging everything into the car. The arduinos will sit in separate enclosures making them easy to plug a laptop into as a make changes, chase bugs, fix stuff and add features.

    First part of this is the menu control which cycles through the menus, resets trip and more.
    This uses a rotary encoder and here is my solution to allow me to use the factory trip reset dial to satisfy my desire to keep the whole thing looking as original as possible. 89081CCA-FB3B-4064-94F4-0968481FF454.jpeg
    D0CFBB1B-2B29-4AD9-89B6-435E31E8A020.jpeg
     
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  3. Russell

    Russell
    Z Club Member

    Slow progress is still progress?

    Tested the digital trip reset, it works as expected and retains the factory appearance. 759A2C3F-D604-41F0-851C-1A6C49DCA901.jpeg 340E8732-4875-4502-A9CA-555D72902D09.jpeg
     
  4. Russell

    Russell
    Z Club Member

    Fuel tank also finished and ready to bolt back in when I find a suitable (read reasonably priced) pipe to join the filler neck. Also some suitable j-bolts for the straps. 4A691F2C-0BFB-4155-AAB7-7A6E5ECBF0FD.jpeg

    I also didn’t want to buy straps if they could be made so borrowed Mark’s old set and we set about making some more.
    Came out really well and saved £100 or so!
    1E3F4CDB-DECB-4A84-8095-6F7393F9519A.jpeg
    924EE586-8825-4493-B46F-40109B850771.jpeg
    C058C796-8699-4DC7-8D03-622FED026457.jpeg
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    DEAE7A13-4435-4874-B7EE-0503368C9092.jpeg
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    Been playing about with the wiring some more. No pictures as nothing much to see but long story short, I managed to wire the ignition relay via the battery charge light.
    As the available wiring diagrams aren’t for my model I had to trace wires with a multimeter.
    This solution would have worked fine but would have resulted in the battery light being permanently illuminated. The main issue that would have caused would be losing ignition power if the bulb had blown and broken the circuit. Would have been an awful experience trying to trace that problem on the side of the road!
    I only found the mistake as I was tracing the battery charge light wiring so I could hook it up to the 1JZ alternator charge light wire.
    Found the right wire, and back on track.
    I’m just using a cheap battery charger as a 12V source at the moment as I just want to check the correct operation of relays and reduce the risk of letting out the magic smoke if something is wrong!
     

    Attached Files:

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  5. AliK

    AliK
    Z Club Member
    Staff Member Moderator

    I always look forward to updates to this thread and your first class work.

    The only question that is nagging me though is: do you think fuel will still be sold freely when the car is finally ready for the road!? You and Mr @franky will need to club together and find a black market supplier of sorts!
     
  6. franky

    franky Well-Known Forum User

    Its a toss up between fuel being in short supply and all those cars needing bare metal resprays :)
     
    AliK likes this.
  7. Russell

    Russell
    Z Club Member

    My plan is to simply upgrade a a Mr Fusion system that should be readily available by the time it’s on the road
     
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  8. Russell

    Russell
    Z Club Member

    I want to run my radiator fans and headlights from separate fused relays. I also want the relays to look neat, I want to use the JZ coolant sensor to drive both the original gauge and activate the fans and I want to make use of spare wires I have on the original looms so they stay as modular as possible when I need to take it apart.

    I bought a cheap radiator, so cheap that the top tank isn’t welded on straight but there is slot in the side about the width of 2 relays. Bit of a play around on my laptop and a fair amount of printing later I came up with this. Need to work on the lid a bit as it was too fragile.
    FA2085B5-8ACD-43A5-926B-842E0D5A584D.jpeg
    Drew this up which is how it’s wired up and fingers crossed it doesn’t let out the magic smoke;
    7E8B28B0-DE12-4197-925C-C0DEBE91C21C.jpeg

    used spade connectors for the relay holders, wrapped it in loom tape and it came out quite well.
    62E4284C-67B9-493F-A3E6-275379A6B605.jpeg 5CED5DDB-F481-4A46-8F5B-DF394682DD74.jpeg 1A21B615-6824-49D2-9146-A1F05D71E366.jpeg

    The white plug has the inputs (fan, high and low beam), black plug is high and low beam to the headlights (need to make that loom at some point). Fan power come straight out to bullet connections at the fan and main power comes from the alternator. 983E13CD-4607-4110-AC8D-C69434E49591.jpeg
     
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  9. Russell

    Russell
    Z Club Member

    For the temp gauge I bought one of the gauge marchers, this comes with an programmable output which I will set to fire the fan relays when it gets hot enough. That way I can use the temp sender already on the JZ engine and not need to add any more clutter to the engine bay.

    There were a few wires that went to the coil, ballast resister etc that are no longer needed. One of those wires was part of the induction loop and as far as I can trace it is a straight run from the front of the engine bay to the tach which is next to where the gauge matched will live. Result! As long as it doesn’t split into any other wires behind the dash and catch me out!
    72E69679-9C94-41B4-870E-FD1C8721D6D7.jpeg
     
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  10. Russell

    Russell
    Z Club Member

    Only took a couple of pictures last night but spent some time building the bottom mount for the intercooler.
    Needs finishing off but it will have some rubber grommets in it so the intercooler will slot in, then just a couple of tabs on the top to hold it all in.
    Still planning on mounting the fans between the intercooler and radiator so needs to be enough gap between.
    Will see how well it cools and come up with a better idea if it doesn't work.
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