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Ignition trouble

Discussion in 'Engine' started by MCBladeRun, Sep 13, 2020.

  1. Rob Gaskin

    Rob Gaskin Treasurer Staff Member Moderator

    Ok, the first thing I'd assume is that the wiring is wrong to the coil/ballast or the ballast resistor is burnt out. The coil is fed direct during starting and through the ballast when running. Try bypassing the ballast resistor .
  2. MCBladeRun

    Z Club Member

    Ok, I'll try that next chance I get.

    I also did continuity between the sides of the ballast resistor, I got open circuit when it is supposed to be 1.6 ohms according to the Haines guide.

    If the resistor is open circuit, no volts will flow during running and hence why it starts but doesn't run?

    I won't count my chickens just yet though.

    Thank you Rob
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2020 at 9:39 PM
  3. SacCyclone

    Z Club Member

    Sounds electrical for sure.....igntion switch or ballast. I don't think there are relays on your car in between the switch and ballast but check anyway.

    The ballast is bypassed during start mode so that the dizzy gets a full 12 volts. In run position, the ballast is in the mix to reduce volts to the dizzy to save on points wear.

    I think your car has aftermarket module so no points anyway. Remember that the ignition signal flows through the rev counter too before arriving at the dizzy so take that into account.
  4. MCBladeRun

    Z Club Member

    Got a chance to bypass the ballast resistor tonight, car started with no further problems (only the problems preexisting).

    I noticed the aftermarket module has wear on the plastic-ring with the hexagon shaped inner? (Worst description ever) there's meant to be a green tape around it, but it's worn badly.

    So I've bought a ballast resistor, new after market module and coil.
    SacCyclone likes this.

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