Here we go again...

Rushingphil

Club Member
Looking at old pics of this it definitely didn't have any form of stone chip. It is an earlier shell though being a 70.

Having read all the posts on all 3 of your build threads, and knowing how quickly you CAN progress!, this is probably a little late! But, .... there was a good reason why Nissan (Datsun) quickly added the underseal before the Top coat. As Franky said, bit of a no brainer now! - will probably give the shell an additional 30+ years of life :driving:

NB. Really enjoy your posts - thanks for the effort , I know it's not quick or easy!
 
Sorry, just to clear up my ramblings....

It wasn't fitted from new/factory, however there wasn't even paint under the sound deadening.

I can't think of a reason why you wouldn't do it now though given where we live and how it looks. It adds a bit of noise reduction through mass also.
 

IbanezDan51

Well-Known Forum User
So I went ahead with the raptor tintable paint...used a 2mm gun instead of the schultz for a smoother finish and it looks lovely. Will try get a top coat of base on next. D1BECB5B-859A-4F3E-BA41-A517DFADE1FB.jpeg

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Also slowly getting the Jenvey’s one by one but for bargain prices..! Short intake manifold due to my trumpet length was hard to find but finally picked one up. Should fit nicely with an air box on for road use.

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IbanezDan51

Well-Known Forum User
Top stuff.

How do you rate the Raptor?

Really good stuff, took awhile setting the 2mm HVLP gun up to get it flowing nicely but came out really well and very factory looking. I thinned the base down a tiny bit with base coat thinner to get a glossier finish but will be putting another base coat over anyway so didn't really matter - guess it helped with the smaller nozzle though.

The 4 litre kit was just enough to do the entire underside, inner rear arches and front inner wings.
 

IbanezDan51

Well-Known Forum User
When I look at this car Dan I can't help but compare it to your first one.

Thanks Rob, very similar, although similar amounts of rust their are certainly less dents in the roof on this one, took awhile to sort the other! And of course Im going safari gold with this one!
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Thanks Rob, very similar, although similar amounts of rust their are certainly less dents in the roof on this one, took awhile to sort the other! And of course Im going safari gold with this one!

No your very first one - the rust bucket!
 

Ian

Club Member
Really good stuff, took awhile setting the 2mm HVLP gun up to get it flowing nicely but came out really well and very factory looking. I thinned the base down a tiny bit with base coat thinner to get a glossier finish but will be putting another base coat over anyway so didn't really matter - guess it helped with the smaller nozzle though.

The 4 litre kit was just enough to do the entire underside, inner rear arches and front inner wings.
Great

Thats currently the planned route for me to go down. Tinted everywhere apart from the wheel well areas whihc will be black. The finer glossier finish is definitely the way to go.


Does it look like it would clean up well, some of the other underseals tend to hold dirt rather than let it wash off easily, my previous setup was a 3M sealer which was then clear coated and it was so easy to clean.


Just hope it doesn't start to peel, it gets very good review and I've only heard one guy said they had peeling problems leading to water trapped behind it but I think it may have a problem at the application stage, perhaps they didn't get the surface prep right.
 

richiep

Club Member
Looks excellent! That's exactly the type of finish I am aiming for with Dixie as I decided ages back to go the tintable Raptor route. Looks like I might need a 2.0mm gun (or 2.0mm needle for my 1.8 gun) to achieve that then.

As Ian speculates, I think peeling issues with Raptor are down to incorrect prep by the odd user.
 

IbanezDan51

Well-Known Forum User
Great

Thats currently the planned route for me to go down. Tinted everywhere apart from the wheel well areas whihc will be black. The finer glossier finish is definitely the way to go.


Does it look like it would clean up well, some of the other underseals tend to hold dirt rather than let it wash off easily, my previous setup was a 3M sealer which was then clear coated and it was so easy to clean.


Just hope it doesn't start to peel, it gets very good review and I've only heard one guy said they had peeling problems leading to water trapped behind it but I think it may have a problem at the application stage, perhaps they didn't get the surface prep right.

It seems to be very easy to wipe down, I will be putting another coat of base over but not lacquering the underside and it definitely seems well adhered. The sample I was given on a spray out card I couldn’t even crack let alone start to peel off. Time will tell I guess. I obviously put mine over etch with a light key before spraying.
 

IbanezDan51

Well-Known Forum User
Looks excellent! That's exactly the type of finish I am aiming for with Dixie as I decided ages back to go the tintable Raptor route. Looks like I might need a 2.0mm gun (or 2.0mm needle for my 1.8 gun) to achieve that then.

As Ian speculates, I think peeling issues with Raptor are down to incorrect prep by the odd user.

Thanks Richie, I’m very pleased with the outcome! You could probably run it through a 1.8mm end but may have to thin it a tiny bit more. Might be too smooth then though. It looks rougher in the picture than it actually is.
Dan
 

IbanezDan51

Well-Known Forum User
Well struggling getting to the garage still, I’m still deemed as an essential worker so in most days, but not complaining as it’s better than being out of work.
Haven’t progressed much but did manage to finally give the inside a quick prep and get a thick layer of white primer over it all. Will try to finish prepping the engine bay next week too although it just needs a light flat down and primer. Then I can finally get on with the body.
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New wheel well in looks pretty factory.

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