Help with fusible links for a 76 280Z

AgingGeek

Club Member
Hi, does anyone have a wiring diagram for a '76 280z for the fusible links?

Two of mine are gone (which explains my alternator not working, I suspect it blew when I jump started the car after my battery died from leaving the lights on in storage)

I found a set from Torqen here: https://www.torqen.uk/specials/dats...136.html?search_query=fusible+link&results=14

However, looking at mine, I can't identify if this is correct, as it looks like I have two red, but someone has replaced one in the past for a yellow wire so I can't tell:
a) If this is the correct set for the car
b) Where the set should go on the car, as I cant really identify the colors

Anyone able to help please?
 

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yellowz

Club Member
Try this resource
 

AgingGeek

Club Member
Try this resource
Thank you that is super helpful, I just need to determine if mine was made before or after the change in 76. I'll see if mine has any markings on the fusible links, need to get back out of storage now.
 

AgingGeek

Club Member
So the markings on mine are almost all gone, but here is a comparison from a 76 with clean markings
I reckon that looks like a match?
 

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AgingGeek

Club Member
Well, seeing as torqen are being beyond useless, does anyone know where I can buy these in the UK? I can't find anywhere that isn't US based
 

MCBladeRun

Club Member
I'm not familiar with fusible links but, looking at the pictures, putting an inline fuse and crimping them with spade connections a way around this? You just need to know the amp rating of the circuit and step up the fuse by a size right?

Unless I'm missing something here 🤷‍♂️
 

AgingGeek

Club Member
I'm not familiar with fusible links but, looking at the pictures, putting an inline fuse and crimping them with spade connections a way around this? You just need to know the amp rating of the circuit and step up the fuse by a size right?

Unless I'm missing something here 🤷‍♂️
I thought that myself, surely its the same thing, but looking at threads on forums in the US, they seem to advise against it, but I can't really see why
 

MCBladeRun

Club Member
On my list of jobs is to replace the links with something like this

Probably a good idea in the long term

I thought that myself, surely its the same thing, but looking at threads on forums in the US, they seem to advise against it, but I can't really see why
They advise against it because you need to get the fuse correct to protect the wiring system (or it melts / catches fire)

Hi, does anyone have a wiring diagram for a '76 280z for the fusible links?

Two of mine are gone (which explains my alternator not working, I suspect it blew when I jump started the car after my battery died from leaving the lights on in storage)

I found a set from Torqen here: https://www.torqen.uk/specials/dats...136.html?search_query=fusible+link&results=14

However, looking at mine, I can't identify if this is correct, as it looks like I have two red, but someone has replaced one in the past for a yellow wire so I can't tell:
a) If this is the correct set for the car
b) Where the set should go on the car, as I cant really identify the colors

Anyone able to help please?
Re-reading your original post, I suspect that yellow wire is indeed a bodge, it could be just a work-around.

Looks like you'll need a 40amp, 2x50amp and an 80amp. They do an 80amp fuse in maxi-blade size. The wires for the fuse carrier need to be able to take the intended fuse size.

No good sticking the 80amp fuse in a fuse carrier with tiny wires, it'll melt them before the fuse has a chance to blow.

I think it's best to corroborate what the fsm says in relation to what that hyperlink shows, he got those fusible link carriers from a 76 2+2, might be different to a 2 seater 76?
 

toopy

Club Member
I converted mine about 15 years ago with this and have since rewired the headlights with relays as well. But i plan to upgrade this with a similar midi fuse block as linked to above.

Fuses_2.JPG
 

AgingGeek

Club Member
I converted mine about 15 years ago with this and have since rewired the headlights with relays as well. But i plan to upgrade this with a similar midi fuse block as linked to above.

View attachment 54226
That looks great, I think I will go down this route too
Probably a good idea in the long term


They advise against it because you need to get the fuse correct to protect the wiring system (or it melts / catches fire)


Re-reading your original post, I suspect that yellow wire is indeed a bodge, it could be just a work-around.

Looks like you'll need a 40amp, 2x50amp and an 80amp. They do an 80amp fuse in maxi-blade size. The wires for the fuse carrier need to be able to take the intended fuse size.

No good sticking the 80amp fuse in a fuse carrier with tiny wires, it'll melt them before the fuse has a chance to blow.

I think it's best to corroborate what the fsm says in relation to what that hyperlink shows, he got those fusible link carriers from a 76 2+2, might be different to a 2 seater 76?

Fantastic info, thank you very much for this!
 

yellowz

Club Member
I converted mine about 15 years ago with this and have since rewired the headlights with relays as well. But i plan to upgrade this with a similar midi fuse block as linked to above.

View attachment 54226
If the power is coming in at the top and the old circuits are the twin sheathed cables going down to the right what is the fuse block on the left for?
 

toopy

Club Member
If the power is coming in at the top and the old circuits are the twin sheathed cables going down to the right what is the fuse block on the left for?
That was the planned fused feed to the lights and fuel pump via relays, i done it slightly different in the end with something more like below, feeding it with one wire from the dedicated main fuse.
fuse block.jpg
 
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