Fuel sender help

[Robotsan]

I've got a new fuel sender for my 76 280z, but it hasn't come with the pre-installed wires and plug that the original came with.

Anyone know how/if I can remove the old wiring? It doesn't want to pull off, but both of them rotate freely so they're not soldered on.

The instructions say:



Pics of the old and new side by side:



The old one has 2 points - solid yellow goes to the actual level sensing bit. Yellow and green goes to the wire that goes to the little cylinder thing on the secondary stick. Guessing that's for the warning light?

Black wire must be ground.



New one has 2 points again, but the smaller one appears to be ground, as there's nothing on the back of it. And I know these aftermarket ones don't allow you to have a warning light, so guessing that's why the secondary stick and sensor thing isn't present.

 

[Makesy]

You can use the old wiring that was on the car and link it to those terminals on the new sender. I crimped spade connectors onto the wiring and they slide right over the terminals, then I liberally applied spray-on electrical tape, though I will probably go back and add some rubber covers to better protect them.

 

[Robotsan]

You can use the old wiring that was on the car and link it to those terminals on the new sender. I crimped spade connectors onto the wiring and they slide right over the terminals, then I liberally applied spray-on electrical tape, though I will probably go back and add some rubber covers to better protect them.

Thanks! Good to know it works, as that's exactly what I've ended up doing, courtesy of @Larby 's advice.

I've just ordered the paint-on kind of liquid tape to seal it all up too.

How well does the sender work for you?

 

[yellowz]

I've got a new fuel sender for my 76 280z

Where did you get yours from?

 

[Robotsan]

Where did you get yours from?

It's from z-services.eu. I think he gets his parts from the US, but it's still cheaper than getting them yourself.

 

[Makesy]

You can use the old wiring that was on the car and link it to those terminals on the new sender. I crimped spade connectors onto the wiring and they slide right over the terminals, then I liberally applied spray-on electrical tape, though I will probably go back and add some rubber covers to better protect them.

My sender works to the extent that it tells me if I've got fuel or not. I had a fuel leak when I last tried to fully fill the tank which sent fuel all over Tesco's forecourt, and I haven't dared to try and brim it again, so I can't tell you if it works to read 'Full' xD.

I put about 20 litres in the other day and it read to half full. That'll do me just fine!

 

[Robotsan]

My sender works to the extent that it tells me if I've got fuel or not. I had a fuel leak when I last tried to fully fill the tank which sent fuel all over Tesco's forecourt, and I haven't dared to try and brim it again, so I can't tell you if it works to read 'Full' xD.

I put about 20 litres in the other day and it read to half full. That'll do me just fine!

Nightmare! I'm praying all my hard work will mean no leaks, but I'd be surprised too.

So apparently the smaller s30 gas tanks (240 up to 77 280 I guess?) are 60l, so your needle should really be around 1/3 of the way

I'm trying to think how can I calibrate the new sender without having to install the tank fully, fill it up, and then having to drain it if it's not right

 

[yellowz]

It's from z-services.eu. I think he gets his parts from the US, but it's still cheaper than getting them yourself.

I got mine from Zcardepot and it came with the round connector.

 

[Robotsan]

I got mine from Zcardepot and it came with the round connector.

When did you get it? The pic on their website doesn't show the connector. By connector do you mean the wires with the 3 pin plug?

Fuel Tank Gauge Sending Unit Sender 240Z 260Z 280Z 70-78

Fuel Tank Sending Unit Gauge OEM 240Z 70-73 Datsun 240Z Fuel Sending unit.

zcardepot.com

 

[Robotsan]

Or did you buy the fancy paints OEM one? That appears to come with the plug!

 

[toopy]

My sender works to the extent that it tells me if I've got fuel or not.

Lol, mine has always read roughly 3/4 full if i brim it, then i tend to re-fuel at 1/4 reading or just under. I've run dry a couple of times when the gauge was above the minimum and i took a gamble that it'll be fine for a few more miles! For many years I've always carried 5 ltrs of juice in the boot just in case

 

[Makesy]

Nightmare! I'm praying all my hard work will mean no leaks, but I'd be surprised too.

So apparently the smaller s30 gas tanks (240 up to 77 280 I guess?) are 60l, so your needle should really be around 1/3 of the way

I'm trying to think how can I calibrate the new sender without having to install the tank fully, fill it up, and then having to drain it if it's not right

You can set it all up and have someone physically move the arm position while you check the reading in the cabin. It's not foolproof for what will actually happen in the tank, but it will give you a gauge (badum tiss!)

I read on FB some of the aftermarket senders can spout a mild weep from the terminals, but if that does happen you can pop a bit of sealant around them to stop it happening again.

My leak was from the O Ring folding in on itself on installation but I didn't notice until it was too late!

 

[yellowz]

Or did you buy the fancy paints OEM one? That appears to come with the plug!

Me and electrics don't mix so went with the 'it should work without my helpful intervention' option

 

[Robotsan]

You can set it all up and have someone physically move the arm position while you check the reading in the cabin. It's not foolproof for what will actually happen in the tank, but it will give you a gauge (badum tiss!)

I read on FB some of the aftermarket senders can spout a mild weep from the terminals, but if that does happen you can pop a bit of sealant around them to stop it happening again.

My leak was from the O Ring folding in on itself on installation but I didn't notice until it was too late!

Thanks that's all very useful!

 

[Farmer42]

It's from z-services.eu. I think he gets his parts from the US, but it's still cheaper than getting them yourself.

Did you have any problems with receiving parts from Z-Services? I ordered a new o-ring and locking ring at the end of April but it still hasn't arrived. Did it go through UK Customs and did you get a tracking number? I have nothing apart from an email to say that it was shipped on 5 May.

You can set it all up and have someone physically move the arm position while you check the reading in the cabin. It's not foolproof for what will actually happen in the tank, but it will give you a gauge (badum tiss!)

I read on FB some of the aftermarket senders can spout a mild weep from the terminals, but if that does happen you can pop a bit of sealant around them to stop it happening again.

My leak was from the O Ring folding in on itself on installation but I didn't notice until it was too late!

I bought a sender from e-bay but had the same issue with the o-ring leaking. It did the same as yours and folded in on itself and then fell into the tank with the fuel falling out - mostly over me!! I did notice that the new one was smaller diameter that the original. I put the old one back on but its still not completely solved the leak as it was perished. I have just bought a pack of o-rings from B&Q and one is slightly bigger than the new one supplied with the sender but the same size as the original so going to give that a try although I'm not sure it will stand up to fuel.

The problem with this is that you don't know if it leaks until you fill it up then you have to drain a full tank to sort it assuming that most of it hasn't already gone all over the forecourt!!.

 

[Robotsan]

Did you have any problems with receiving parts from Z-Services? I ordered a new o-ring and locking ring at the end of April but it still hasn't arrived. Did it go through UK Customs and did you get a tracking number? I have nothing apart from an email to say that it was shipped on 5 May.

Nope always been fine for me. You should have got an email with title "[Z-Services] Shipped" - in there is a reference number, and at the bottom a link to tracking. If you log in to your account you can also click on the "Details" link next to your order, and in there is a link to the tracking info. Website is usually in French though so use the Chrome translate function

I bought a sender from e-bay but had the same issue with the o-ring leaking. It did the same as yours and folded in on itself and then fell into the tank with the fuel falling out - mostly over me!! I did notice that the new one was smaller diameter that the original. I put the old one back on but its still not completely solved the leak as it was perished. I have just bought a pack of o-rings from B&Q and one is slightly bigger than the new one supplied with the sender but the same size as the original so going to give that a try although I'm not sure it will stand up to fuel.

The problem with this is that you don't know if it leaks until you fill it up then you have to drain a full tank to sort it assuming that most of it hasn't already gone all over the forecourt!!.

This worries me! I've installed my sender and the locking ring - but I can still rotate the locking ring slightly with my fingers. I feel like it should be tighter than that? Or not?

Is this the right way to install it? I put it in like this, so the little bumps are here to start with..



And then I carefully hammered it clockwise until the little bumps were under the black tabs on the tank itself. Is that right?

 

[Makesy]

Looks well installed. What have you used for insulating the connectors?

I used red rubber grease on the 2nd install, as I felt this might help create a better seal and stop the o ring binding. Seems to have worked but I don't think it's entirely necessary

 

[Robotsan]

Looks well installed. What have you used for insulating the connectors?

I used red rubber grease on the 2nd install, as I felt this might help create a better seal and stop the o ring binding. Seems to have worked but I don't think it's entirely necessary

I used Plasti-dip liquid tape, its amazing! you dap it on thick with a brush and then it shrinks around it. Needs 2 coats. I'm going to use it on everything electrical from now on.

Just saw your msg above about the aftermarket senders leaking from the terminals though, so I might add some more to seal them up.

OK that's a good idea, I'll grab some of that grease. Is that the same stuff you use inside wheel bearings, etc?

 

[Farmer42]

Nope always been fine for me. You should have got an email with title "[Z-Services] Shipped" - in there is a reference number, and at the bottom a link to tracking. If you log in to your account you can also click on the "Details" link next to your order, and in there is a link to the tracking info. Website is usually in French though so use the Chrome translate function



This worries me! I've installed my sender and the locking ring - but I can still rotate the locking ring slightly with my fingers. I feel like it should be tighter than that? Or not?

Is this the right way to install it? I put it in like this, so the little bumps are here to start with..



And then I carefully hammered it clockwise until the little bumps were under the black tabs on the tank itself. Is that right?

Thanks. I didn't get a tracking number with the e-mail saying it has been shipped. They have now been back in touch saying that they will send another shipment with a number as they can't trace the first. It's on its way with a number so fingers crossed.


WRT the fitment. I tap the locking ring round until the tab sits against the spike. The little bump stops it moving back the other way so holds it still ( or that's the theory!). It should be reasonably tight though to make the seal. Mine was loose which is why I ordered a new locking ring and rubber o ring.

 

[Robotsan]

Thanks. I didn't get a tracking number with the e-mail saying it has been shipped. They have now been back in touch saying that they will send another shipment with a number as they can't trace the first. It's on its way with a number so fingers crossed.


WRT the fitment. I tap the locking ring round until the tab sits against the spike. The little bump stops it moving back the other way so holds it still ( or that's the theory!). It should be reasonably tight though to make the seal. Mine was loose which is why I ordered a new locking ring and rubber o ring.

That's good. He's a nice guy, I've dealt with him a few times now so I would expect him to sort it out for you.

Ahh ok, so you mean move it further clockwise, so that the gaps I've put the green arrows in disappear, and that spike is against the black tab?

If I can still move the ring with my fingers after that, do you reckon I need a new locking ring?