From Smoker to Sssssmokin’!

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Been a while so time for an update:

Having fixed the leaky fuel tank, I am quietly pleased with the outcome but remain on notice to buy a new one in case it leaks

https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/fixing-a-holy-fuel-tank.27282/

Once painted with 3 coats of chassis paint and a few coats of gloss Hammerite, the tank came up very nice

ae2a81620dfdf0944003db61e31211b5.jpg


The fuel lines were an utter pain to make in a single piece front to back given how many kinks there are ...

a3b521a12c29fb58113df656ea8484ab.jpg


https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/goodridge-6-aluminium-hardline-tube-per-metre-g-hl836-06d


But I’m happy with the outcome at the rear ...

7edadd3908a1e5a5925255ce1cad1ee4.jpg


The supply line is in two parts as I was routing for an electric fuel pump that I will do another time.


The BSA bike gaiters worked very well also so the strut assemblies are ready to go now. On that note, MSA kindly replaced the damaged ones but left the full price on the invoice, so I’ve been landed with another £78 of import duties! Grrrrrrrrr. However, MSA did offer it as store credit for my next order so less grrr.


Unfortunately a 5 minute job of putting the assembly together turned into a nightmare of the nyloc nut welding itself onto the shock absorber threads and subsequently turned into a 5 hour swearing session. I had to dremel grind out the bit on the flat side of the shaft, the opposite side to weaken it and then break it loose with a chisel.


973eab600d832da6cec132be9cf7e2d6.jpg


d61fb13e3e009d31f498353d5390399a.jpg


The hand brake mechanism looked a bit sorry for itself and there appeared to be rust under it so it had to be rubbed down...
5d03afa781639e3374c0c4c2a4d81033.jpg


...and like all other parts of the underside, as I take off the underseal and surface rust, I find totally solid metal. So that is something to be happy about.

4c1a898ae11a76aeaa718f5c9eee0b80.jpg


Yesterday it all got put back together and looked like this ...

4f0e7c2e58537d9ccbab86a249050121.jpg



BTW, lemon juice and salt + time, my new go to absolute favourite rust remover - just check out the before and after photos + the line where my dish wasn’t deep enough to submerge the handbrake mechanism fully:

Before

5960fc65307e803543d58b2b9d19c803.jpg


After an overnight soak ...

5c9702f9348e1df00210d622ce978f52.jpg


No wonder lemon juice is used for home teeth whitening - it dissolves off a layer of tooth!!!!

One of the hand brake cable hanging hooks on mine was missing and the PO had done a hack with exhaust hanger rubber ...

321360fe7e281234bf34feb700b8e2b7.jpg


So I spent an hour probably making one out of aluminium I had laying about, original on right.

4941fca7267b23558d89e24fffcb87f8.jpg


On the handbrake cable front, I finally received my Bangkok handbrake cable

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151459145571

Here it is for comparison ...

ab7e58858592db265aac65d78ad9410f.jpg


I am going to write to the chap to say that the rubber gaiters need to be changed around (as per the original) to have the long ones on the wheel end of the cable to reduce dirt ingress.

Some thoughts: the protective over sheeth as you can see does not go all the way up the cable. I also had to heat the rubber up to pull it over the crimped bit - see the pic below, left side done, right side as it came.

e6a7043c0381d7073264ffe64b3c8c5d.jpg


I made up an alternative to the serrated washers on the moustache bar with some hard rubber washers. 12mm seemed optimal with 6mm and a 3mm washers glued together, both having 60mm OD and 24mm ID.

1c9a0cd4608174e53f2257042167b0ef.jpg
 
Last edited:

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Getting the new to me 3.9 diff ready I had to check the wipe pattern which seems good
907417d8b647b669e8dcde036b0228da.jpg


A bit of hylomar blue

53d62abcd74e49e57255b0a4f26296c0.jpg


A felpro gasket, a shined up diff cover and some new JIS bolts and we have a diff!

d93d4846b1013bd119c9b504335721c6.jpg


While on the topic of the diff, I remade the AK mount out of 60mm steel and decided to abandon my plan of using the original arrester strap brackets. I made my own brackets. It’s a LOT heftier and fits way better. I had to re-do all the angles as it wasn’t sitting centre on but now it’s perfect!

f84a0bd20388872c299425eb5bea4d51.jpg


58d60becd3689e8c58d463ea5b523571.jpg


And as of today, it looks like this in situ with two steps off the red bump stop and one rubber washer above it. It leaves 1-2mm clearance to allow the diff to move a little and be quieter for cruising.

982aeebf79568c4af20d12bb1a8a80ef.jpg


ded25757ab196086221aa32f6607e95e.jpg


Again, soaking the fuel line clips overnight yielded some awesome results ...

edf77ab50170b23ad593487c2cbe233c.jpg


dafdde171f4d60295b03507cbee2113b.jpg


So as of today we have the diff and suspension mounting points in, ready for drive shafts and suspension to be bolted on.
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
Been a while so time for an update:

Having fixed the leaky fuel tank, I am quietly pleased with the outcome but remain on notice to buy a new one in case it leaks

https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/fixing-a-holy-fuel-tank.27282/

Once painted with 3 coats of chassis paint and a few coats of gloss Hammerite, the tank came up very nice

ae2a81620dfdf0944003db61e31211b5.jpg


The fuel lines were an utter pain to make in a single piece front to back given how many kinks there are ...

a3b521a12c29fb58113df656ea8484ab.jpg


https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/goodridge-6-aluminium-hardline-tube-per-metre-g-hl836-06d


But I’m happy with the outcome at the rear ...

7edadd3908a1e5a5925255ce1cad1ee4.jpg


The supply line is in two parts as I was routing for an electric fuel pump that I will do another time.


The BSA bike gaiters worked very well also so the strut assemblies are ready to go now. On that note, MSA kindly replaced the damaged ones but left the full price on the invoice, so I’ve been landed with another £78 of import duties! Grrrrrrrrr. However, MSA did offer it as store credit for my next order so less grrr.


Unfortunately a 5 minute job of putting the assembly together turned into a nightmare of the nyloc nut welding itself onto the shock absorber threads and subsequently turned into a 5 hour swearing session. I had to dremel grind out the bit on the flat side of the shaft, the opposite side to weaken it and then break it loose with a chisel.


973eab600d832da6cec132be9cf7e2d6.jpg


d61fb13e3e009d31f498353d5390399a.jpg


The hand brake mechanism looked a bit sorry for itself and there appeared to be rust under it so it had to be rubbed down...
5d03afa781639e3374c0c4c2a4d81033.jpg


...and like all other parts of the underside, as I take off the underseal and surface rust, I find totally solid metal. So that is something to be happy about.

4c1a898ae11a76aeaa718f5c9eee0b80.jpg


Yesterday it all got put back together and looked like this ...

4f0e7c2e58537d9ccbab86a249050121.jpg



BTW, lemon juice and salt + time, my new go to absolute favourite rust remover - just check out the before and after photos + the line where my dish wasn’t deep enough to submerge the handbrake mechanism fully:

Before

5960fc65307e803543d58b2b9d19c803.jpg


After an overnight soak ...

5c9702f9348e1df00210d622ce978f52.jpg


No wonder lemon juice is used for home teeth whitening - it dissolves off a layer of tooth!!!!

One of the hand brake cable hanging hooks on mine was missing and the PO had done a hack with exhaust hanger rubber ...

321360fe7e281234bf34feb700b8e2b7.jpg


So I spent an hour probably making one out of aluminium I had laying about, original on right.

4941fca7267b23558d89e24fffcb87f8.jpg


On the handbrake cable front, I finally received my Bangkok handbrake cable

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151459145571

Here it is for comparison ...

ab7e58858592db265aac65d78ad9410f.jpg


I am going to write to the chap to say that the rubber gaiters need to be changed around (as per the original) to have the long ones on the wheel end of the cable to reduce dirt ingress.

Some thoughts: the protective over sheeth as you can see does not go all the way up the cable. I also had to heat the rubber up to pull it over the crimped bit - see the pic below, left side done, right side as it came.

e6a7043c0381d7073264ffe64b3c8c5d.jpg


I made up an alternative to the serrated washers on the moustache bar with some hard rubber washers. 12mm seemed optimal with 6mm and a 3mm washers glued together, both having 60mm OD and 24mm ID.

1c9a0cd4608174e53f2257042167b0ef.jpg
Coming along nicely! The rubber blocks around the brake sheath are correct though, there should be one on each side.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Coming along nicely! The rubber blocks around the brake sheath are correct though, there should be one on each side.

Thank you sir - can’t wait to drive the thing before winter hits!

Well that explains why the studs they hang off of are different lengths. I did wonder why there was such a long stud on one side than the other. Maybe one broke and the PO made the hook thing? [emoji848]
 

Timbo

Club Member
Liking your ears.
Don't suppose you'd offer a 'build an ear' service?
I spent last weekend replacing one of my two rear cylinders in order to pass the MoT.
The other side has a ruined brake line end and was considering trying my hand at pipe bending.
6edf4137a5c692bd1c170d90436ffa10.jpg


Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Liking your ears.
Don't suppose you'd offer a 'build an ear' service?
I spent last weekend replacing one of my two rear cylinders in order to pass the MoT.
The other side has a ruined brake line end and was considering trying my hand at pipe bending.
6edf4137a5c692bd1c170d90436ffa10.jpg


Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Hey Tim,

I would gladly make you some but I’ve binned the originals so I no longer have a template to go from. If you are happy to send me yours I’ll knock some up for you.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Thanks Ian! Itching to drive the car and hopefully before winter comes.

I’m hoping the new shocks, ball joints and compression rods would make quite a noticeable difference also.

Been a very busy few days but barring the rear bumper, lights and number plate, the car is nearly fully back together again!

Putting the rear suspension back on, I realised that the bushes were stiff in operation and missing the water proofing washers. I took off the spindle pin nuts and large washers, then spent a bit of time pouring in self penetrating oil and working the bushes free. Looks like water had gotten in between the bushes and spindle pins, causing them to rust and get stiff. Using 38mm grommets with their centres cut out, I made my own water proofing washers.

70929f648f9877d66351405533dc0702.jpg



They squash up nicely and with copper grease against them, they allow the suspension arm to move freely and smoothly.

061a55f17e97e10fbb91fed850fe0d53.jpg



a0c0032755b540a5b5d54eb6442c5f18.jpg


I’ve never been happy with the paintwork at the back of the car, so I put my youngest on wet’n’dry duties. Left unattended he would have done the whole car!!!!! But with 2000 grit in his hand the damage would have been limited.

f810e91d87c9f195c71635676951a8f1.jpg


Using air dry 2 pack paint and flattening with 2000 grit + Farelca G3 gave a mirror smooth finish that puts the rest of the car to shame!!! This is the eBay seller I used ...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324086893804

I cleaned up the rear lights and using the autoextreme chrome effect paint, they turned out superbly well. You can see the reflection of the lights in the chrome effect finish. It’s never going to be chrome perfect but it’s the closest I have gotten out of a rattle can.

998ac7e9f1bdafa4337874e760e313b2.jpg


The photos don’t do it justice but it’s pretty damn good. The trick was to get the surface flat with 800/2000 grit, lacquer, flatten and buff the surface, then use the autoextreme.

61e58ec92b20352d0104115148237624.jpg


Apparently when cured, it is tough and fuel resistant - time will tell I guess.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264557079525

I gave up trying to find a good working pair of original rear wheel cylinders and went with Rockauto which arrived in less than 3 days when they were due in 5 days. They seem good quality but time will tell. I couldn’t find 15/16ths cylinders that came on the car so I went with 7/8ths and will get slightly less braking pressure on the rear. But then again, they are new, no leaks and theoretically better matched than anything else I could find second hand.

Finally, call me paranoid, but using airfix yellow enamel paint, I marked every nut and bolt that I disturbed. That way I can monitor any movements over time.

7ce442044b93483ddb89884fab7e6037.jpg


Having driven the car off the driveway and back in again to turn her around, the handbrake feels for the first time ever, totally even on both sides.

An interesting observation is that with the old fuel lines I had to crank a fair bit to get the fuel to the engine. But with the new ones, she fires up on the dot, even after standing for a couple of days. I suspect the perished old ones weren’t completely air tight. Also walking into the garage these days there is noticeably less smell of fuel.

I had lost a lot of love for the car given how much hassle it’s been this year. But the moment the engine fired up, the love was back and now the itch is back too! Just need to get her road legal and the tracking done before going for a proper test drive.

Just to reward me, the front right dipped beam has given up the ghost! The high beam works but low beam has no volts. I have tested the bulb and it’s good. Given 12.5v at the battery and 11.3v at the connector on the high beam and side lights, I won’t bother trouble shoot it but will start the soon to be over engineered relay project and bypass the 40 year old resistive wiring! ;)
 
Last edited:

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Thanks Ian! Itching to drive the car and hopefully before winter comes.

I’m hoping the new shocks, ball joints and compression rods would make quite a noticeable difference also.

Been a very busy few days but barring the rear bumper, lights and number plate, the car is nearly fully back together again!

Putting the rear suspension back on, I realised that the bushes were stiff in operation and missing the water proofing washers. I took off the spindle pin nuts and large washers, then spent a bit of time pouring in self penetrating oil and working the bushes free. Looks like water had gotten in between the bushes and spindle pins, causing them to rust and get stiff. Using 38mm grommets with their centres cut out, I made my own water proofing washers.

70929f648f9877d66351405533dc0702.jpg



They squash up nicely and with copper grease against them, they allow the suspension arm to move freely and smoothly.

061a55f17e97e10fbb91fed850fe0d53.jpg



a0c0032755b540a5b5d54eb6442c5f18.jpg


I’ve never been happy with the paintwork at the back of the car, so I put my youngest on wet’n’dry duties. Left unattended he would have done the whole car!!!!! But with 2000 grit in his hand the damage would have been limited.

f810e91d87c9f195c71635676951a8f1.jpg


Using air dry 2 pack paint and flattening with 2000 grit + Farelca G3 gave a mirror smooth finish that puts the rest of the car to shame!!! This is the eBay seller I used ...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324086893804

I cleaned up the rear lights and using the autoextreme chrome effect paint, they turned out superbly well. You can see the reflection of the lights in the chrome effect finish. It’s never going to be chrome perfect but it’s the closest I have gotten out of a rattle can.

998ac7e9f1bdafa4337874e760e313b2.jpg


The photos don’t do it justice but it’s pretty damn good. The trick was to get the surface flat with 800/2000 grit, lacquer, flatten and buff the surface, then use the autoextreme.

61e58ec92b20352d0104115148237624.jpg


Apparently when cured, it is tough and fuel resistant - time will tell I guess.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264557079525

I gave up trying to find a good working pair of original rear wheel cylinders and went with Rockauto which arrived in less than 3 days when they were due in 5 days. They seem good quality but time will tell. I couldn’t find 15/16ths cylinders that came on the car so I went with 7/8ths and will get slightly less braking pressure on the rear. But then again, they are new, no leaks and theoretically better matched than anything else I could find second hand.

Finally, call me paranoid, but using airfix yellow enamel paint, I marked every nut and bolt that I disturbed. That way I can monitor any movements over time.

7ce442044b93483ddb89884fab7e6037.jpg


Having driven the car off the driveway and back in again to turn her around, the handbrake feels for the first time ever, totally even on both sides.

An interesting observation is that with the old fuel lines I had to crank a fair bit to get the fuel to the engine. But with the new ones, she fires up on the dot, even after standing for a couple of days. I suspect the perished old ones weren’t completely air tight. Also walking into the garage these days there is noticeably less smell of fuel.

I had lost a lot of love for the car given how much hassle it’s been this year. But the moment the engine fired up, the love was back and now the itch is back too! Just need to get her road legal and the tracking done before going for a proper test drive.

Just to reward me, the front right dipped beam has given up the ghost! The high beam works but low beam has no volts. I have tested the bulb and it’s good. Given 12.5v at the battery and 11.3v at the connector on the high beam and side lights, I won’t bother trouble shoot it but will start the soon to be over engineered relay project and bypass the 40 year old resistive wiring! ;)
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Ali the +ve to the headlights is just one feed per side for both the main and dip so your problem is the -ve feed from the switch. It sounds like a wire fault to me because if it was a switch problem I would expect both sides to be faulty.
 
Last edited:

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Ali the +ve to the headlights is just one feed per side for both the main and dip so your problem is the -ve feed from the switches. It sounds like a wire fault to me because if it was a switch problem I would expect both sides to be faulty.

Thanks Rob. I agree with you on that. Especially as it’s always been a little dodgy on that side - i.e. wiggling the wiring under bonnet would make it work again previously!! [emoji33]

Incredible work! I really enjoy following your progress. Great attention for detail!

Peter, you are too kind sir, thanks for the kind words.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
How is this holding up bud? I used it on mine and it seems to pick up fingerprints still!

Hello Chap. So far so good, but then I did let it air dry for a couple of days then sprayed over it with acrylic lacquer. That may be the reason I can't see my prints in it. :conf2:

I've not been around much for the last few weeks so I do need to bring this thread up to date. I miss tapatalk! :(
 

s2k_adz

Club Member
Ah I didn't lacquer mine this time. The first time I tried it it reacted and went almost like a dull silver! What lacquer did you use?
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Ah I didn't lacquer mine this time. The first time I tried it it reacted and went almost like a dull silver! What lacquer did you use?


Yeah, it does that! The trick I found was to let it dry for a long time, then apply the lacquer in VERY thin layers, wait to dry and repeat.

This is where I got my 2k air dry paint and lacquer from ...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324086893804
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
About time for an update on this thread. Since the demise of TapaTalk, I've become an infrequent visitor.

Update part 1:

Having gotten the car back together, it was time to get the wheel alignment sorted before test driving. I used newspaper under the wheels to allow them to move about and did it by eye, before going to my local hidden gem - a Nissan specialist. I CANNOT recommend these guys highly enough! http://www.abbeymotorsport.co.uk/

So good to find true enthusiasts that really know their stuff and are passionate about cars. To the point of producing something like this for no other reason or purpose than just because ...

2021-05-12 15.02.04.jpg 2021-05-12 15.02.08.jpg

I love the new and old side by side! Really must get round to clipping the Datsun emblem back on.

upload_2021-6-9_13-31-26.png

Interestingly, they asked me where I had the alignment done before seeing them, as the toe was pretty identical on both sides, albeit too much toe at 5ish mm! It just goes to show what the eyes can judge!

upload_2021-6-9_13-43-36.png

The underside of the car looks pretty clean and I panic every time I see a puddle now! ;) I'm sure the novelty will wear off. I really must improve the hanger for the exhaust, but the current solution works fine for now. Having said that, spot the sacrificial U clamp to protect the exhaust from grounding out - happened a few times at Silverstone in 2019.

2020-08-26 09.14.30.jpg


Some PO was unkind to the chassis rails! I suspect at some point they were grounded as well as being abused by jacks! I had previously experienced issues with the compression rod nuts loosening off so yes, I've doubled them up. It's not pretty but it ain't moving!

2020-08-26 09.14.35.jpg


So with the alignment done, it was time to get some miles under the tyres - note to self, check and double check brakes. The brakes felt fine until I had a sharp slow down on the motorway and nearly changed lanes as the car pulled left. There appeared to be some residual air that found it's way into the front right.

The ride is UTTERLY transformed with the Konis. I went from the softest setting to the hardest and found the happy place is somewhere between 1.75 and 1.5 turns. Incidentally, I've had to modify the Koni adjuster as it doesn't make it all the way through the strut tower holes at the rear. I am so pleased with the Koni strut inserts and would highly recommend them. I have to say, they are not as hard as I had expected on max setting but I agree with Jon Bills's assessment that they were probably designed for US spring rates. Either way, they are still fantastic. Looking through my paper work, it appears the PO used the Mr. F. lowering springs but I don't know their spring rates.

upload_2021-6-9_13-50-51.png

The good news is all the work has paid off and the steering is now lovely.

Never being one to do things the easy way, I've been playing with the club airbox. It's a performance product and the finish is secondary to it's function. But I wasn't happy with the finish or the idea of having small locknuts where they could potentially get sucked into the intake manifold. I wanted "Wing Bolts" from the outside much like the stock set up but without interfering with the airflow.

So I set about modifying it. It all started with some CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) for a new backplate.

upload_2021-6-9_13-54-19.png

The strange thing is, the stock back plate measurements were different to what I measured between the carb mouths. Then I realised there is quite a bit of play in the bolt holes on the carbs themselves, so if you want to get a proper alignment of the back plate trumpets with carb mouths, you need to bolt the back plate on, loosen the carb nuts, then align the holes and tighten all nuts and bolts.

Here's the beginnings of the effort with 4mm thick aluminium sheet ...

upload_2021-6-9_14-2-14.png
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Update Part Deux:

Having fashioned the back plate and the bolting on mechanism, the airbox looks so much better in situ! Inside the box, there is nothing that can come loose and go inside a carb mouth. The two screw caps you see on the top are bolted into a long 16mm x 19mm aluminium bar to keep the box from going into a pudding shape / sagging in the middle.

upload_2021-6-9_16-20-41.png


By some miracle, on a late 260z, the hole on the left is over 100mm vertically and just over 91mm horizontally. I purchased some double ply 86mm I/D ducting which comes out at 92mm O/D which goes through it perfectly. It also fits over the airbox perfectly with a large exhaust clamp serving the holding duties.

upload_2021-6-9_16-19-21.png

Filtration is courtesy of an AP2 S2000 stock filter. I have seen some scary videos about how much dirt a K&N lets through. The S2K stock filter has more CFM capability than my engine requires, a solid flange and a built in velocity stack. On the downside, it is puke green and has prosthetic limb coloured plastics. The latter was sorted with a coat of paint and the former will be hidden behind a stainless steel heat shield. The main purpose of the heat shield, beyond hiding the green, is to protect it against stone chips and rain water / spray / jet washing.

There are two captive nuts at the top of the rad support panel for the fuel injection filter housing. The red tape on the above photo shows where then are. They will be ideal for clamping the filter to with a couple of home made brackets. I know you're not supposed to turn intakes through 90 degrees, but there is no other way to fit the filter. At a later stage I may replace the bend with a nice aluminium mandrel bent intake pipe. For now, I just want the car driveable again.

A word of caution: the ITG HS6 trumpets sold by Merlin Motorsport are smaller than HS6 Carb mouths by 15% and went back for a refund. To their credit, Merlin refunded me over a year after I bought them and without original packaging! Courtesy of the kind Mr. Toopy I got to try his MSA trumpets which are a superb fit and sounds great! Interestingly the AFRs went 1 whole notch richer but that is probably because the carb standoff is now being held inside the trumpets. More of that on my carb thread when I next update it.
upload_2021-6-9_16-16-32.png

I still wanted a more finished look, so I added an aluminium bezel to finish it off. It joins itself under the front carb where is cannot be seen, such that it looks like a single piece without joins. "P" shaped rubber / EPDM insulation on the inside.

upload_2021-6-9_16-59-23.png

I was keen to get the float bowl overflow plumbed in as they also perform a pressure equalisation function for the float bowls, which does have a marginal effect on the mix off idle.

upload_2021-6-9_16-53-15.png

upload_2021-6-9_16-55-39.png

With a coat of satin black acrylic paint, the finished article looks much better than it does in the photos.

upload_2021-6-9_16-51-54.png

Once I finish this one, I plan to finish my other "in-progress" project - the constantly variable electric cooling fans.
 

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