Fixing a holy fuel tank

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
And this is why we take stuff back to bare metal!!! Just when I thought I could brush away surface rust and paint, I discovered that the tank sealant inside was helping the rust hold hands!!!

3681669e089b51cf9bb3970b4960bcab.jpg


The options as discussed with other more experienced people than me are:

1. Buy new / reconditioned ( the Belgian ones are 240 shaped, the recon US ones need the core first and will cost about the same)

2. Solder/braze it or solder/ braze a patch over it

3. Cut out and re-weld then re-seal the tank.

4. Use liquid metals such as JB weld (my least favourite option.

5. Someone here has one for sale for a reasonable price.

What are your thoughts wise / experienced ones?
 
Last edited:

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
I'd try one of the plastic metal putty jobs first (I guess that's like JB weld). I've had success with them on rusty perforated diff covers before. It does need to be properly clean and dry first though
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
If its a holy tank, you need to pray.

Failing that, take all the paint off first, the whole thing, see what the condition is like all over.

I’ve stripped the entire bottom now and the rest is OK. So I’m happy to keep it if I can fix it with a long term fix of sorts.

I’m very tempted by this proposition you put my way, it equally I’m sick of spending money on the car this year + it’s not quite the right shape for mine. Am I getting fussy now? ;)


https://s30.world/product/fuel-tank-fits-all-s30s-till-7-1973
 

Jimbo

1978 260z in yellow
Club Member
take it to ready rads in birmingham he sorted mine out.
he cuts out the rust and welds in fresh and can then test it under water under pressure for leaks, even with a guarantee.
he repairs radiators for a living so can lead load, solder and braze so repairing a tank to him is a doddle but not cheap unfortunately.
he welded up mine and cleaned it out and painted for £150
 

Jimbo

1978 260z in yellow
Club Member
also meant to say its been on the car since 2015 no issues, and definitely no leaks
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Mark / Jimbo, thanks gents that’s great advice.

The plan at bedtime (may change tomorrow [emoji1787]) is to do the metal epoxy thing with a layer of 1/2mm steel over the top and POR 15 rust preventer on top of the lot for added protection.

If it fails or weeps at all then it will end up at the Brummy place - as Franky said, that’s great value! [emoji106]

I think the tank has already had the sealing treatment. Huw was postulating that it was done to fix this pin hole as the rear of the tank is pretty OK. Also, it seems to have had some kind of impact at that point on the tank.

d0dace339ace3f5e0c6bc502f557bc2e.plist


In some ways I wish I hadn’t disturbed it ;) as it wasn’t leaking. But having seen how the surface rust in that spot turned it into a sieve, I am glad I got rid of as much orange metal as possible and acid treated it all + POR rust preventative to go on + top coat of stone chip protection paint over it. I don’t think she will rust from the inside so as long as I protect the outside well enough it may last well.

Having said all this, I plan to give it the annual “prostate test” with an endoscope to keep and eye on it. The good news is that it’s in a spot accessible from the front of the tank and the drain plug, so at least I can see both sides.
 
Last edited:

johnymd

Club Member
I have 4 tanks that all need some kind of repair. I've been looking for someone to refurb them for a while now and £150 sounds really cheap to me. Was tempted by the S30world tanks which work out around £550 delivered. At least then its a fit and forget process. I would think most of our fuel tank are getting near the end of their life and I really hate the liners currently available. The old milky colour stuff frost frost was superb but the newer liner liquid is not so easy to get to stick properly.

May give ready rads a ring for a job lot price.
 

Paul_S

Club Member
take it to ready rads in birmingham he sorted mine out.
he cuts out the rust and welds in fresh and can then test it under water under pressure for leaks, even with a guarantee.
he repairs radiators for a living so can lead load, solder and braze so repairing a tank to him is a doddle but not cheap unfortunately.
he welded up mine and cleaned it out and painted for £150
also meant to say its been on the car since 2015 no issues, and definitely no leaks

That as £150 in 2015 folks
 

Farmer42

Club Member
I think Arrow in Bristol repair fuel tanks. I'm sure a mate of mine took his there a couple of years back. Might be worth getting them to give a quote as well.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Just spoke to ready rads - very nice chap!

He said £150 is pretty much still the price. I’m going to WhatsApp pics of my tank and he will give me a more accurate price.
 

MaximG

Well-Known Forum User
I have 4 tanks that all need some kind of repair. I've been looking for someone to refurb them for a while now and £150 sounds really cheap to me. Was tempted by the S30world tanks which work out around £550 delivered. At least then its a fit and forget process. I would think most of our fuel tank are getting near the end of their life and I really hate the liners currently available. The old milky colour stuff frost frost was superb but the newer liner liquid is not so easy to get to stick properly.

May give ready rads a ring for a job lot price.

I think that’s a good price for a brand new fuel tank.
 

Dale

Club Member
I’ve got my spare tank in for a refurb and ‘Re-Nu’ coating at the moment. It’s going to be close to £400 once done.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
So gang, don’t laugh at me but I spoke with 3 different people (2 in motorsport + one who is a welder). Also spoke with another classic car owner who did this job 10years who and still had no trouble and they all recommended cold welding it.

I ordered some JB Weld Steel Stik from amazon for £6

4b152047213c144612bafeb6d33c377f.jpg



I cut a bit off the end of the stick and worked it into a paste that comes out like chewing gum. Then stuck it onto the affected area. Followed by a piece of Illy coffee tin over the top and another layer of JBWeld. Then when fully cured, I gave it 3 coats of the chassis paint and 2 overcoats of Hammerite. It feels totally solid and I am hoping that’s kicked the buying a new tank can down the road for at least 10 years.

cfc02bb313ffcaec75b61604989f3010.plist


a394879354b5c9c9d3db3681e9097d79.jpg



f128036c485b3ecb546a95ed0af34947.jpg
 
Last edited:

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
glad to see you use the best coffee Ali.
But I have to tell you, that isn't cold welding!

Agreed on the welding, it’s just how people referred to it when we were speaking. I couldn’t quite understand how you weld cold until they explained what they meant ;)
 
Top