Engine rebuild

morbias

Well-Known Forum User
Well... the exhaust was blowing a bit of smoke, but I assumed it was probably because the oil was overfilled as the level on the stick was over the max (pretty sure the PO said he'd changed the oil when I went to pick it up). Did an oil change, threw in some 20w50, let it settle for an hour. Checked the level, started the engine and no smoke... for the first few minutes anyway. And then it started billowing a crap ton of the stuff. Checked the plugs and all six were covered in oil. I can only assume the previous oil had stabilizer or some other additive in it to mask the fact the engine is, in fact, fubar.

So just wondering what sort of cost I am looking at for a rebuild (L26 E88 head), not that I can afford it anytime soon :(
 

vpulsar

Well-Known Forum User
I'd of thought you could get a basic rebuild done fairly cheaply, If you bores are OK you should be able to get away with new rings and a hone, Plus new bearings, I can't see it costing much more than £500 if you do all the taking out and fitting of the engine plus taking it apart yourself.

I'm just rebuilding my head and it hasn't cost me much other than the new cam kit which you wont be doing.


Rob
 

morbias

Well-Known Forum User
Unfortunately I don't have the space or equipment to do the job myself, so I'd have to have it trailered to somewhere that can.

And who knows, it might need re-boring too; the clock has 67,000 miles on it but maybe it's gone around once already, or maybe twice.
 

surreyseagull

Well-Known Forum User
hiya mate..im assuming you got a 260z??..ive got problems with mine as it seems core plug is leaking.ive now put engine to pretty much end of stuff to do and concentrate on body/brakes/susspension etc.
im tinkering with idea of sticking a 280zx block/head in when mine comes out(eventually).more power etc.shame as mine has only done 61000 genuine miles
 

Rob Gaskin

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Does your engine have a spray bar to lube the cam? If so take the cam cover off and check that the bar hasn't broken and flooding the valve area with oil.
 

morbias

Well-Known Forum User
surreyseagull: Yeah, it's a 260Z. I'm in the same position as yourself, I'm currently grinding all the rust off the underside of the car and pulling the suspension apart for a rebuild in a couple of weeks. And then the car needs to go for some bodywork and a respray, when I can get some cash together.

And then I have to do something with the engine, when I have sold that extra kidney that I don't need. I do want to keep the engine though, to keep the car as original as possible. The camshaft and outside of the block look to be in good nick, it's just the inside that appears to be buggered!

Rob: yes, it has a spray bar (which is bent slightly at one end), but last time I took the cover off it all looked fairly normal as far as oil goes. Then again I hadn't run the car for a while, so what would be the best way to check without having oil spraying everywhere?
 

surreyseagull

Well-Known Forum User
same as mate..im only doing 37 and half hours a week at momment.so any cash is for bills etc,but theres always little bits n pieces on z i can do for nothing..stripping panels etc..its kinda great in a way people in similar situation though.gives a bit of inspiration to plod on with it.
 

Rob Gaskin

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Rob: yes, it has a spray bar (which is bent slightly at one end), but last time I took the cover off it all looked fairly normal as far as oil goes. Then again I hadn't run the car for a while, so what would be the best way to check without having oil spraying everywhere?

Run it with the cover on and remove the filler cap, is it spraying ok?

Just physically check the bar with the cover off, I have had the front portion drop off mine - it's common. If that has happened it may be flooding the head and causing the smoking from seeping past the valve seals. Got to be worth a look anyway.

All that theory about different oils and additives wouldn't cause this.
 
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morbias

Well-Known Forum User
I think I'll go ahead and actually take the spray bar off, clean it up with carb cleaner and check it for leaks while it's off the car. I already spent ages cleaning oil up the other day when I somehow missed the oil filler hole!

By the way, is there supposed to be a gasket between the cam tower and spray bar connection?

surreyseagull, I know where you're coming from. I've been laid off work this year for about 3 days in every 5, I have lots of time to work on the car but I am now running out of money to do it with. It's ok though, I've decided to win the lottery tonight.
 

morbias

Well-Known Forum User
Right, where do I get a new spray bar from?

I took it off and noticed that it was bent on the part that fits to the cam tower, meaning there was a gap on one edge of the gasket. So I tried to straighten it out... long story short, the spray bar is now in more than one piece :(

I'm not convinced that that would cause the oil burning issue as it was only at one end of the bar, but now I'm going to have to buy a new one anyway with money I don't have.

****! I'm going to need to move the car soon as well. How much is a new spray bar?
 

Rob Gaskin

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A good spray bar is a must on these engines. So ok you broke it but hopefully you'll end up better off.

I see you have been offered one already, now that's what a club is all about!

Flush it through before fitting. My engine was built for me and yes it does have gaskets but I have had trouble with them and they are fiddly. Perhaps others will comment on them.
 

morbias

Well-Known Forum User
Jay to the rescue!

I still can't believe I broke it so easily, though I guess it's old cast metal and it's become brittle. It literally shattered, I don't even understand how that bit could have been bent so much in the first place.

It had gaskets between the two halves of the blocks at either end, but none between those blocks and the cam towers -- are there supposed to be some there as well?

Also I noticed the bracket in the middle of the bar that bolts to a cam tower... well that cam tower also has a hole in it for oil to pump through, I assume that's not used and the bracket is meant to just close it off?
 

vpulsar

Well-Known Forum User
If you have any more issues with your spray bay I have the spare I just took off my 260, My new cam is oiled internally so I don't need it anymore.



Rob
 

SKiddell

Well-Known Forum User
My new cam is oiled internally so I don't need it anymore.

Even with an internally oiled cam I would advise running a spray bar as well, the oiling that is produced by an internally oiled cam is mediocre at best.
 

MaximG

Well-Known Forum User
A good spray bar is a must on these engines. So ok you broke it but hopefully you'll end up better off.

I see you have been offered one already, now that's what a club is all about!

Flush it through before fitting. My engine was built for me and yes it does have gaskets but I have had trouble with them and they are fiddly. Perhaps others will comment on them.

Thats interesting I didnt know they had gaskets, mine is fitted without and dont seem to have any problems.
 

Ian Patmore

Well-Known Forum User
But to do so you may have to change the cam towers, as there is not always provision to bolt a spray bar onto the cam towers of an internally oiled cam set-up.
 

vpulsar

Well-Known Forum User
But to do so you may have to change the cam towers, as there is not always provision to bolt a spray bar onto the cam towers of an internally oiled cam set-up.

The cam kit just come's with blanking plates for the standard spray bar holes, So I can just bolt the spray bar back on to have the best of both worlds I'd of thought.




Rob
 
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