Engine overhaul (help needed) - 240z with a 280z block

[toopy]

I also need to work out what type of carbs i have and also the air filter - need a new one of those.

Carbs are Hitachi SU's or commonly known as 240z carbs. The round K&N filters can be cleaned and re-oiled and will be as good as new, assuming the filter fabric is undamaged of course. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/K-N-Air-...289682?hash=item4410c78e52:g:rFEAAOSwS2lcOGpK

Looking at the pic of the dizzy, it does look like there is an ignition module on the side of it, therefore its electronic and the points and condenser spares you have will be redundant.

 

[Graeme - CZ]

Carbs are Hitachi SU's or commonly known as 240z carbs. The round K&N filters can be cleaned and re-oiled and will be as good as new, assuming the filter fabric is undamaged of course. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/K-N-Air-...289682?hash=item4410c78e52:g:rFEAAOSwS2lcOGpK

Looking at the pic of the dizzy, it does look like there is an ignition module on the side of it, therefore its electronic and the points and condenser spares you have will be redundant.

Thanks for the tips re my carbs. Any views on whether to just stick with original air filter or K&Ns. I reckoned my filter on top of the rockar cover was leading to additional smells in the cabin. Makes sense re those points etc, as those came with the 240z dizzy cap which I ordered wrongly.

 

[jonbills]

I think the stock setup is better. It has crank case ventilation support and draws air from a cooler area

 

[Graeme - CZ]

That’s what I was thinking. Keeps it all stock too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[toopy]

Thanks for the tips re my carbs. Any views on whether to just stick with original air filter or K&Ns. I reckoned my filter on top of the rockar cover was leading to additional smells in the cabin.

Personal choice on the air filters really, I've had K&N's for many years, as well as the rocker cover breather and I'm happy with both. The best of both worlds would be a cold air intake as seen on quite a few members cars.

 

[Graeme - CZ]

Thanks so much to Stuart - a local Z owner who came to take a look. Whilst the car probably needs a good tune up and the carbs serviced, my immediate problem would appear to be more fuel related. My engine bay fuel filter full of rust particles - the car hasn't moved all that much in recent years. Below 2,500 RPM car is ok, but if I put the foot down, it starts to choke - like it's not getting enough fuel. Reckon I need to start at the fuel tank (which also has a leak if filled up) and work my way forwards on the car. Before i get started on that, got a few questions:

- What parts should I order if I want to recondition the fuel system? How far should I go?
- Anyone had any issues with a leaking fuel tank, the side where the filler is - RH? At half full it seems ok.

 

[Graeme - CZ]

This is my starter for 10. Wondering if a electric fuel pump is worthwhile, given I have the 280z engine.

 

[jonbills]

The fuel leak is likely to be the fuel level sensor. You should be able to see it leaking just behind the rear wheel.

Is the 2500 rpm on the road or stationary?

 

[Graeme - CZ]

The fuel leak is likely to be the fuel level sensor. You should be able to see it leaking just behind the rear wheel.

Is the 2500 rpm on the road or stationary?

Thanks for that tip. The car seems to rev fine when stationary, but when on the road it tends to cough and splutter if I give it some gas. If i gently build the revs that is somewhat ok, but it does not like a quick press of the throttle.

 

[Graeme - CZ]

The fuel leak is likely to be the fuel level sensor. You should be able to see it leaking just behind the rear wheel.

Is the 2500 rpm on the road or stationary?

Worth replacing the whole fuel level assembly? Or, do you think it likely just to be a seal.

 

[jonbills]

Thanks for that tip. The car seems to rev fine when stationary, but when on the road it tends to cough and splutter if I give it some gas. If i gently build the revs that is somewhat ok, but it does not like a quick press of the throttle.

That sounds like a lack of damping of the vacuum piston thingies in the SUs. Did you check the oil level in the top of the carbs?

 

[jonbills]

Worth replacing the whole fuel level assembly? Or, do you think it likely just to be a seal.

When I had the problem, you could only replace the whole sensor. It wasn't terribly expensive.

 

[Graeme - CZ]

When I had the problem, you could only replace the whole sensor. It wasn't terribly expensive.

Definitely worth doing if i'm pulling out the tank.

 

[Graeme - CZ]

That sounds like a lack of damping of the vacuum piston thingies in the SUs. Did you check the oil level in the top of the carbs?

I'm a rank beginner when it comes to engines, but i'm hoping that someone who's knows more than me will be able to give the carbs a once over.

 

[jonbills]

Definitely worth doing if i'm pulling out the tank.

Yes, although you don't have to take the tank out to do it.

 

[Rob Gaskin]

I've had that fuel starvation issue - it runs ok when stationary or below a certain revs but 'ask for power' and it dies. I've driven home from Cadwell and Castle Combe like that after a long day on track. The fuel pump can't deliver the fuel because of rust particles that have built up and partially blocked any filters. Very common.