Downunder 1971 240Z

toycollector10

Forum User
Hi, I've finally bought me a big Zed after missing out on a minter about 5 years ago. The car has 148,000 miles on it but the engine and gearbox have been reconditioned. The paint is not too good and there is body filler in a few places. The car drives and steers well but I've got a couple of issues that will need to be sorted. More about that in other technical section posts. The engine is original L24 etc so it's all there and the seller threw in a complete set of rubbers for the glass and doors. The front dam has been removed but it came with the car.

In the pictures you will see my other early Japanese car which I have to sell to make room in my garage for the Zed. She's a wee honey and I'll be sad to see her go. It's a 1973 Mitusbishi Galant two door fastback with low miles and I'm the second owner.

forum_009.jpg


forum_003.jpg


forum_004.jpg


forum_005.jpg


The motorcycle in the picture below is my 1973 Kawasaki Z1 which I have spent the last two years restoring.

forum_011.jpg


And the personal plate which I don't like at all so will have to modify.

forum_010.jpg


I paid NZD $19,600 which is GBP 8,550 for an unrestored vehicle. I hope that I haven't done my dough. It's supply and demand and down here in New Zealand a 1971 Zed is pretty rare. I like the car because it's relatively original apart from the bad paint job. Having said that, from 3 feet away it looks fantastic so I'm not too concerned.

I've got lots of questions and I know I'm in the right forum. I'll look forward to getting to know you guys on-line.
 

rhanagar

Well-Known Forum User
Looking at it with a bit of TLC she will be a grand example. Well done sir and welcome to the club.
 

toycollector10

Forum User
Hi rhanagar, That's a lot of work you have done on your car. Nice. And thanks for the welcome.

A trick I learned for cleaning up alloy parts is to dip them in hydrochloric acid (brick cleaner from a hardware shop) for seven seconds or so then rinse the part under running water. Polish with white stick then use a cloth mop to put a sheen on it.
 

datty240Z

Well-Known Forum User
Hey, that looks awesome! Congratulations and what a bargain. You'd definately pay many times that for such a great example over here. In fact it would be almost impossible to find such a good one over here. Well done.:thumbs:
 

rhanagar

Well-Known Forum User
Hi rhanagar, That's a lot of work you have done on your car. Nice. And thanks for the welcome.

A trick I learned for cleaning up alloy parts is to dip them in hydrochloric acid (brick cleaner from a hardware shop) for seven seconds or so then rinse the part under running water. Polish with white stick then use a cloth mop to put a sheen on it.

Cheers for that tip. Will bear it in mind ... however most of the alloy parts have been wire brushed clean now lol. Cheers for the compliments on the work I have done. Biggest car project I have ever done, and seems to be never ending. Mind I did have fun actually putting parts back on her today giving a sort of job is getting there feeling.
 

ollyc

Well-Known Forum User
Fabulous looking car and I think you've got a lovely little project on your hands there. Welcome to the club matey. Check out the 'Intorducing 'Gaijin' thread on here as he's another NZ guy thats may be of interest to you. Any way good luck matey and keep the pics coming.
 

datsfun

Club Member
Thats a nice s30 you found.

Any more pics and spec on the galant? I have nasty thoughts of a GTO:D
 

2fast2z

Well-Known Forum User
Hi rhanagar, That's a lot of work you have done on your car. Nice. And thanks for the welcome.

A trick I learned for cleaning up alloy parts is to dip them in hydrochloric acid (brick cleaner from a hardware shop) for seven seconds or so then rinse the part under running water. Polish with white stick then use a cloth mop to put a sheen on it.
Alloy will turn black ish, if it is in contact for to long with hydrochloric acid will, other than that it works well, what is better to use on alloy is phosphoric acid, anyway that's just my experience.

Good looking car by the way, welcome.

Chris
 

toycollector10

Forum User
This restoration is taking ages I'm afraid. What I want to do next is replace the shock absorbers. The car handles terribly so I'll get the sway bar bushes replaced too.
Question. What brand and type of shocks do I need? The car sits low on its **** so I want it to sit level. Is this solely due to worn shock absorbers? I want a comfortable ride not a race track suspension. I would appreciate any comments. Pictures are attached of the car so far. The car appears to be level as it's parked on a steepish downhill.






222681_1893725015708_1019034632_2053323_3908805_n.jpg


222216_1893725135711_1019034632_2053324_6041148_n.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Looks nice!

If the car doesn't handle well I suspect it's more than the sway bar bushes. The sway bar only controls body roll. Even if it rolls a lot it should still drive well. Check all the suspension bushes front and rear and the steering rack/column bushes/coupling.

The shockers will not affect ride height, that is controlled by the springs. The shockers control the spring and stop the car bouncing after it hits a bump. The ride height looks reasonable to me.
 

Gio

Well-Known Forum User
Can't help on the suspension, I'm afraid but since you've bumped your thread and this is the first time I saw it, have to say that Z1 looks stunning. Good luck with the 240Z.
 

toycollector10

Forum User
Hi Rob, the car steers well in and out of corners and doesn't roll. In a straight line if I hit a bump in the road or give the throttle a boot-full the rear of the car wiggles around from side to side. It's pretty scary at 70 mph so I don't go that fast anymore. Are you saying a solution would be suspension bushes all around and new springs on the rear?
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Certainly check all the rear bushes at either end of the A Frames. Springs - well I'm not sure really it looks ok to me. However if you renew the dampers you may as well do the springs too.
 

Mr.G

Club Member
Changing all my rubber insulators to polyurethene ones made a massive difference to the ride and handling. I'm also thinking of getting the tockico blues, you can get a kit which includes the springs as well, firm ride but not too firm. If you think that may be too much for you, then consider getting stock struts but using slightly stiffer springs which are shorter by 1inch then normal, Mr.F on here sells them. It's a good compromise if you dont want to change the original feel too much but still want an improvement to the handling.

Check out HyperFlex, they do bushing kits, saves you a lot of money then buying them all individually.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

us2

Well-Known Forum User
Hi from another downunder toycollector.Your car looks great.:thumbs: Stuffed shocks will make all sorts of weird handling. I put Konis on the front of my 72 240 and made a huge difference. STOCKS in Auck have them. Don't know if there ia a branch in CHCH.
Looks as though someone has chopped a bit from your rear springs or they have sagged.
The rear coilwire diameter should be .449 in.-- 11.4mm
No of coils--10.65
Free total length 15 inches.-- 381mm
These are the stock dimensions.for the rear of a 240.

When I got my 240 many years ago, I didn't like the way it would squat under acceleration, and it also used to bottom over undulating roads with a passenger on board. I had some 260 springs,which are slightly heavier wire gauge. I tried these and they are great on the rear. Standard springs on the front still, and with Konis on the lowest setting the car handles well.
I can understand you don't want or need kidney pounding hard suspension for a nice road car.
For me reasonable handling and comfortable ride are paramount.
I also lopped one coil from front and rear.She sits nice but still looks stock--ish.
 
Top