Door skins

candy red

Club Member
any one know where it might be possible to get complete left and right door skins for 260z 2seater made has anyone had it done ?
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
I know a company near me that I think could make door skins but as 'one offs' they would probably be as expensive and poorer quality than 'pressed' skins.
 

Albrecht

Well-Known Forum User
I have a complete NOS left hand door, if it is any use?
 

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Albrecht

Well-Known Forum User
Hi Alan could you pm me you contact number so we can have chat thanks Derrick

Hi Derrick,
To confirm after our chat, the part number on this is door indicates fitment for cars built between early 1974 and 1976. I didn't realise your car is a 1978 build, so the door won't fit because of the different latching arrangement.

Sorry to have got your hopes up...
 

candy red

Club Member
Hi Derrick,
To confirm after our chat, the part number on this is door indicates fitment for cars built between early 1974 and 1976. I didn't realise your car is a 1978 build, so the door won't fit because of the different latching arrangement.

Sorry to have got your hopes up...
Thanks Alan
Was good to have a chat with you appreciate your offer anyway 👍🤓
 

candy red

Club Member
Has anyone managed to unfold a door skin of the main doorframe to possibly have the frame blasted or just cleaned up and the refit the door skin.🤔
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Derrick, my Dad replaced a doorskin on an Imp for me years ago. He ground all around the edge to get it off.
 

candy red

Club Member
Derrick, my Dad replaced a doorskin on an Imp for me years ago. He ground all around the edge to get it off.
Yes that’s right Rob ,if i just wanted to remove the old skin and fit a new one but I want to reuse the skin I take as there’s nothing wrong with it it’s about getting rid of any surface rust in door frame.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
I think I read once that the door skin is only welded in one place (front top) and the rest is all folded and crimped.
 

candy red

Club Member
I think I read once that the door skin is only welded in one place (front top) and the rest is all folded and crimped.
Thanks Jon that’s the sort of information I wanted knowing where the spot welds are and how many as the paint is hiding the welds will have to investigate more 👍🤓
 

richiep

Club Member
It wasn’t a door skin that I replaced for my project, but the lower outer skin of the rear hatch - but similar principles apply. The skin was just folded over the edges, spot welded only around the flange in the rear screen opening.

Jon may be right - most is just folded over on the doors, with the welding limited to spot welds along the window opening where the trim/squeegee fits.
 

Ian Patmore

Well-Known Forum User
Yes that’s right Rob ,if i just wanted to remove the old skin and fit a new one but I want to reuse the skin I take as there’s nothing wrong with it it’s about getting rid of any surface rust in door frame.
There is a tool that lifts up the folded edge of the doorskin, so the skin can be reused.
 

candy red

Club Member
So I’ve adapted a pair of pincers t to a tool for peeling the existing door skin flange back .the idea is the slotted jaw sits on the edge of the door skin and the other jaw will peel the flange up without damaging the outer face of the skin well we will see shortly if this works fingers crossed 🤓
 

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candy red

Club Member
Well my adapted tool work well 🤓 there was 2 tack welds both at the top where the door skin meets the window open really wasn’t to hard took about hour and a half door skin intact and no damage so pretty pleased 🙂
 

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Faster Behr

Club Member
That takes me back. We used to do a lot of door skins back in the day - MGB’s and the like. Back then we weren’t concerned with saving the skin so could hit it up with a grinder and have at it. The fun came with aligning and assembling the skin around the door so that it still fit the shut lines correctly.

I wonder if modern body shops will still do this on newer stuff. Maybe labour rates make it cost prohibitive? I suspect removing the seam sealer from all around the folds would make it a nasty and lengthy job also. Then there’s probably the whole “safety” thing and concerns around structural integrity.

Can I ask what you’ve got planned in order to clean up and protect the inside of those door frames? In my own experience doors have always been a problem for rust coming back after restoration. I doused all of my last project’s doors with Bilt Hamber Dynax after they came out of paint and am always on the lookout for rust returning!
 

candy red

Club Member
That takes me back. We used to do a lot of door skins back in the day - MGB’s and the like. Back then we weren’t concerned with saving the skin so could hit it up with a grinder and have at it. The fun came with aligning and assembling the skin around the door so that it still fit the shut lines correctly.

I wonder if modern body shops will still do this on newer stuff. Maybe labour rates make it cost prohibitive? I suspect removing the seam sealer from all around the folds would make it a nasty and lengthy job also. Then there’s probably the whole “safety” thing and concerns around structural integrity.

Can I ask what you’ve got planned in order to clean up and protect the inside of those door frames? In my own experience doors have always been a problem for rust coming back after restoration. I doused all of my last project’s doors with Bilt Hamber Dynax after they came out of paint and am always on the lookout for rust returning!
My plan is to have the door she’ll bead blasted then epoxy primer it ,and have the edges of the skin blasted clean up the flat areas of the door skin by hand then epoxy prim those then I’m going to panel bond the skins back on so there’s no moisture getting in the seems 🤓
 
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