I think +5 or +10 in offset would have been much better than 0mm with coilovers. That wouldn't clear the stock struts, but it would work with coilovers. It might look very flush now in the rear in the pics, but when I saw the car you can see that the wheels are too far out. That fender edge needs to be rolled. I might have the wheels lathed, to clear off 10mm. It might not be a bad idea.
-1.5 doesn't sound like much. Are you sure you can't reposition the bolts so there is more adjustment? I was expecting more than that, but it's better than nothing
I don't find it hard to understand after you see the issues with a particular vehicle. But I need to sort something out to make this work.This is where you really start getting into wheel fitment wizardry which I really don't understand! Sounds like you've got a few ideas but arch rolling sounds fairly necessary, its the one thing that's made me hesitant about getting 15x8 rims with 225 tyres as to what tyre profile will fit without modification. Sahme as it looks great otherwise...
Double check but I'm pretty confient the max you can do on those adjustable top mounts is -1.5, you can get more adjustable top mounts however they require modification to the strut towers and weld in plates etc. It's one of the reasons I went for TTT asjustable control arms as well, I get so much choice this way...
I absolutely love the louvres!! They remind me of my dream toy cars when I was a kid in the 70's.
Yeah, I took a chance.The only people who tell you 16 or 15x8 0et and 225 tyres don't rub are either telling lies or jack the car up so the wheel never reaches the arch. Been through this so many times and tried to get it to work with both adjustable top mounts and lower arms and it just doesn't work without modifying the arches on the rears and front edge/spoiler on the front. Even 205 tyres will rub on full suspension travel. Rolled arches or a jacked up car are the only options.
Engine ordered.... It's a good one
Not reallyDoes it have an R in the name somewhere!?
Thanks!
DSI have been very supportive and great to deal with so far. Tons of good advice and not trying to sell you a lot of stuff. But he knows what works with his engines, so sadly my newly bought header needs to find a new home.
Yes, an LSD is mandatory! Thinking of a Quaife for my current R200 diff.
I have Seans Zstory race sport. The primaries are too small for my ports, the Zstory is 40mm. Mine is probably sold to my friend in the US, he has a 280ZX, so we are trying to figure out if it will fit his car.
I will keep the rear section and incorporate that into the 3 inch ypipe on my new headers.
This is the one I have ordered through DSI. It has primaries of 48mm.
There you go! I was 80% sure it was a Kameari.
There you go! I was 80% sure it was a Kameari.
Of all the things we discussed, it was the only thing he was very particular about. He stressed the importance of the header design for this engine. If I had went with a stage 1 or 2, it would have been another story, but the stage 4 is so heavily ported that it's needed.
He also had another option in steel, but in the end I settled for that Kamaeri.