Datsun 280Z -77 - Build thread

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
I absolutely love the louvres!! They remind me of my dream toy cars when I was a kid in the 70's.
 

Woody928

Events Officer
Staff member
Club Member
I think +5 or +10 in offset would have been much better than 0mm with coilovers. That wouldn't clear the stock struts, but it would work with coilovers. It might look very flush now in the rear in the pics, but when I saw the car you can see that the wheels are too far out. That fender edge needs to be rolled. I might have the wheels lathed, to clear off 10mm. It might not be a bad idea.

-1.5 doesn't sound like much. Are you sure you can't reposition the bolts so there is more adjustment? I was expecting more than that, but it's better than nothing :)

This is where you really start getting into wheel fitment wizardry which I really don't understand! Sounds like you've got a few ideas but arch rolling sounds fairly necessary, its the one thing that's made me hesitant about getting 15x8 rims with 225 tyres as to what tyre profile will fit without modification. Sahme as it looks great otherwise...

Double check but I'm pretty confient the max you can do on those adjustable top mounts is -1.5, you can get more adjustable top mounts however they require modification to the strut towers and weld in plates etc. It's one of the reasons I went for TTT asjustable control arms as well, I get so much choice this way...
 

peter_s

Club Member
This is where you really start getting into wheel fitment wizardry which I really don't understand! Sounds like you've got a few ideas but arch rolling sounds fairly necessary, its the one thing that's made me hesitant about getting 15x8 rims with 225 tyres as to what tyre profile will fit without modification. Sahme as it looks great otherwise...

Double check but I'm pretty confient the max you can do on those adjustable top mounts is -1.5, you can get more adjustable top mounts however they require modification to the strut towers and weld in plates etc. It's one of the reasons I went for TTT asjustable control arms as well, I get so much choice this way...
I don't find it hard to understand after you see the issues with a particular vehicle. But I need to sort something out to make this work.

I think a main problem is that all tires with the same spec differ, often quite a lot. I knew these Yokohamas were going to be wide. Toyo R888 are notoriously wide for instance. So some people are saying that 225/50 fits great, some will say they wont... it doesn't decrease the confusion :)

My problems are solvable at least....

Too bad about the limited amount of camber, but I'm with you regarding not wanting to cut up the towers unless it's necessary. The TTT options look great, I will order their control arms for sure. Thanks for the tip
 

peter_s

Club Member
Thanks, we should start the louvres club :)


Just got the car back, and the mechanic removed the BDDC since it was acting up. I asked him to do it. Problem is there is a vacuum leak somewhere, the car idles at 2500-3000 rpm. Any suggestions? The BCCD is removed completely and sealed up.
 

peter_s

Club Member
Found the problem, possibly :)

Took the throttle body off, and it seems that the BCDD channels bypassing the throttle flap weren't sealed enough. With a hose I could feel air when blowing through the main hole. Pushed some oil resistant sealant into the channels and are now waiting for it to dry. Should sort it out
 

peter_s

Club Member
The BCDD is now fully disconnected. No more rev hang, but the car runs really rich coasting now. I think the car runs very rich in general, so I'll start looking at the water temperature sensor which I understand is usually a culprit on these cars with fuel injection.

Coilovers have great potential, I've set them too hard now so the rears don't rub. But they are ok ridewise in the softer settings. I will roll the fenders next week.


As it sits now:
SsTbCaT.jpg


Someone thinks it's great to ride the Datsun. She can see out and sleeps in the noisy environment. Her mother on the other hand is not so keen on her going in an old death trap :D
6TRoksC.jpg



The most important mod so far, new key chain:
70Zjn98.jpg



The size difference!! 2 tonnes vs 1.2
4z8CnBC.jpg




I also said good buy to an old friend this week. I hate selling cars :(
0t409sW.jpg
 

peter_s

Club Member
I still haven't had much time for the Z. More travel with work... getting fed up right now with that, but it's what it is.

Some issues with the idling came back. Don't know why. It suddenly gained 1000rpm to the idle. It worked great for a week after plugging the bcdd, then suddenly it seems to be drawing air from somewhere.

I also started the project of changing the interior from the dirty creamy white to a black interior:
TOJezFhl.jpg


Not so nice:
JAXAN8ml.jpg


Much better:
Iiw2DXel.jpg


sMMmCcrl.jpg




I also got some help rolling the rear fenders. Still not enough.


But the most exciting thing as that I'm about to order a new engine for the car! I've had discussions with a builder and details will follow when everything is put on paper
 

johnymd

Club Member
The only people who tell you 16 or 15x8 0et and 225 tyres don't rub are either telling lies or jack the car up so the wheel never reaches the arch. Been through this so many times and tried to get it to work with both adjustable top mounts and lower arms and it just doesn't work without modifying the arches on the rears and front edge/spoiler on the front. Even 205 tyres will rub on full suspension travel. Rolled arches or a jacked up car are the only options.
 

peter_s

Club Member
The only people who tell you 16 or 15x8 0et and 225 tyres don't rub are either telling lies or jack the car up so the wheel never reaches the arch. Been through this so many times and tried to get it to work with both adjustable top mounts and lower arms and it just doesn't work without modifying the arches on the rears and front edge/spoiler on the front. Even 205 tyres will rub on full suspension travel. Rolled arches or a jacked up car are the only options.
Yeah, I took a chance.

Thing is that these wheels fit my racecar which needs more wheels, so worst case I will have to reconsider my setup for the Datsun.

My plan is to see if my local shop can lathe off a few mm creating +3mm. Add a 215 tire to that and I might be there. It's getting very close clearing the fender now after rolling the edges.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Very nice!! I read good things about their engines!


You are so going to need an LSD with 200+BHP at the wheels! ;)
 

peter_s

Club Member
Thanks!

DSI have been very supportive and great to deal with so far. Tons of good advice and not trying to sell you a lot of stuff. But he knows what works with his engines, so sadly my newly bought header needs to find a new home.

Yes, an LSD is mandatory! Thinking of a Quaife for my current R200 diff.
 
Thanks!

DSI have been very supportive and great to deal with so far. Tons of good advice and not trying to sell you a lot of stuff. But he knows what works with his engines, so sadly my newly bought header needs to find a new home.

Yes, an LSD is mandatory! Thinking of a Quaife for my current R200 diff.

what headers? and what are you getting?
 

peter_s

Club Member
I have Seans Zstory race sport. The primaries are too small for my ports, the Zstory is 40mm. Mine is probably sold to my friend in the US, he has a 280ZX, so we are trying to figure out if it will fit his car.

I will keep the rear section and incorporate that into the 3 inch ypipe on my new headers.




iTeRNZZl.jpg

This is the one I have ordered through DSI. It has primaries of 48mm.
 
I have Seans Zstory race sport. The primaries are too small for my ports, the Zstory is 40mm. Mine is probably sold to my friend in the US, he has a 280ZX, so we are trying to figure out if it will fit his car.

I will keep the rear section and incorporate that into the 3 inch ypipe on my new headers.




iTeRNZZl.jpg

This is the one I have ordered through DSI. It has primaries of 48mm.

Thats a Kameari one

https://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-exhaust-manifold-header-drag-48mm-stainless-steel-l20-l28.html
 

peter_s

Club Member
There you go! I was 80% sure it was a Kameari.

Of all the things we discussed, it was the only thing he was very particular about. He stressed the importance of the header design for this engine. If I had went with a stage 1 or 2, it would have been another story, but the stage 4 is so heavily ported that it's needed.

He also had another option in steel, but in the end I settled for that Kamaeri.
 
There you go! I was 80% sure it was a Kameari.

Of all the things we discussed, it was the only thing he was very particular about. He stressed the importance of the header design for this engine. If I had went with a stage 1 or 2, it would have been another story, but the stage 4 is so heavily ported that it's needed.

He also had another option in steel, but in the end I settled for that Kamaeri.

A lot of their stuff is kameari on their higher end builds, pistons/rods/exhausts etc
 
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