Carbon fiber triple carb air box

ks71z28

Forum User
These are for sale on Ebay and are real awesome quality, $700 is a lot of money, but it a a big impact part when you open the hood!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...STRK:MESE:IT&viewitem=&item=220247444772&rd=1
Silver carbon fiber
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Base and lid
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Black carbon fiber
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Installed on car
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grolls

Well-Known Forum User
Yes it is alot of money especially when you can buy a better version over here for half the cost and no shipping.;)
 

ks71z28

Forum User
the one you have on your car is the one that sells for $800 (US) in carbon, and was brought to me by a fellow who was disgusted at the fit, and the fact that he could only run 1" air horns for the street. The air box i make has a much larger volume, and flows enough air for my GT-2 race car that makes 325 hp at 7500 RPM. By the way the price is $700 US.
 

STEVE BURNS

Club Member
the one you have on your car is the one that sells for $800 (US) in carbon, and was brought to me by a fellow who was disgusted at the fit, and the fact that he could only run 1" air horns for the street. The air box i make has a much larger volume, and flows enough air for my GT-2 race car that makes 325 hp at 7500 RPM. By the way the price is $700 US.

Hey fella
Do you want to become a trader on this site or at the very least become a paid up member
 

jay28

Well-Known Forum User
$700 is still WAY too dear, can get it much cheaper from a member on the site.
 

ks71z28

Forum User
here are a few shots of the "business" end of my "z" car. Note heat sheild placement. Donald and Mickey say Hello

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By the way the airbox you have is available from TWM here in the states for $825 in carbon, and $450 in fiberglass. I designed my air box to get better strut tower clearance, allow longer air horns, and easy acces for removal. The TWM air box was difficult to get to the bottom clips and over airhorns any longer than 1.5". the above car has 2.5" airhorns, and a comp manifold. My air box is also cured under vacuum and post cured in an oven to promote better heat resistance. I was able to put a slightly ovalized 4" snorkle on the "race" version to promote a bit more air flow, but the "street versions can get away with 3" ducting.

thanks for yor feedback
 

jay28

Well-Known Forum User
I dont think there is anything wrong with your airbox, apart from the price, I think its mostly the fact that in your first post on the zclub your trying to sell something instead of maybe saying hello and introducing yourself...........Nice car tho
 

grolls

Well-Known Forum User
here are a few shots of the "business" end of my "z" car. Note heat sheild placement. Donald and Mickey say Hello


It will look fantastic when the primer is splatter painted and a skiddy special air box is fitted, not mentioning the spaggetti ht leads or the pram handle and I see you have pigeons too...:rolleyes::D
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
KS...... your car looks really 'racey', I like it. Tell us more about what you do with it, photos etc.
 

JakTheRuby

Club Member
That's some big slicks on that car of yours. Is it just for track / drag racing? Awesome looker (apart from the big missing bits!)
 

ks71z28

Forum User
Thanks for the comments. The car has been a SCCA GT-2 Race car since 1978. It has competed in approx 100 events, and won an astonishing 84 times. The car has won 14 national events, 3 regional titles, as recent as 1996. The body kit is an IMSA GT kit, which is similar to buble flares, but much more sleak, I have both sets of body work for the car. It has 11.5" slicks on 16" Joungblood wheels, Arizona z car suspension/ coilovers, Wilwood brakes, comp 5 speed, locked rear end, and weighs a mre 2100 lbs wet with driver. The bits missing from the car are the hood and front fascia. To get the car on/off the trailer the fascia must be removed. The car has a terrific history of smashing Porsche GT-2 cars, which make the owners very mad when a cheap Datsun beats there refined Porsche. Anyway I use the car for track days, and may run some events next season if $$$ is there. It is amazing, here in the states there were thousands of these race cars in the 1970's. I found one last year that had been sitting since 1980, lots of cool race parts on it. Sorry if i came off as an ass

Keith
 

MaximG

Well-Known Forum User
It will look fantastic when the primer is splatter painted and a skiddy special air box is fitted, not mentioning the spaggetti ht leads or the pram handle and I see you have pigeons too...:rolleyes::D

Donald duck and micky mouse spring to mind, especialy the ali tube sticking out. Oh well each to their own I guess!!!!:devil:


Not sure what you have in for the guy Grolls????
 

ks71z28

Forum User
It will look fantastic when the primer is splatter painted and a skiddy special air box is fitted, not mentioning the spaggetti ht leads or the pram handle and I see you have pigeons too...:rolleyes::D
I'm sorry but you may need to translate some of the above. The engine bay is Rustolium machine grey, What is a pram handle, and what is the deal with pigeons???? The car is a minimalist hardcore racecar, I do not detail the engine before racing. I do try to make it as easy to work in as possible. I made a fuel log and routed things so nothing has to be removed to get the valve cover off, the battery comes out of a secure box with a wing nut, and the air box comes off with 2 small allen bolts. When at the track it is tough to work on the car due to time, so making everything accessable is important. I spent 2 weeks deciding how and where the battery was going to be mounted. Prior to this the battery took 20 minutes to remove and re-install, not good with no charging system on the car!

thanks

Keith
 

Emerald

Forum User
.. I spent 2 weeks deciding how and where the battery was going to be mounted. Prior to this the battery took 20 minutes to remove and re-install, not good with no charging system on the car!

thanks

Keith

Hi
I use a comercial plug/socket system simialr to those fitted to electric fork lift trucks http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/...ount=22&Ne=4294957561&N=4294965429+4294957505, it allows me to leave the battery inplace and just 'plug' in a booster battery, my landrover has the opposite socket fitted so I can plug in my booster to charge from it's main alternator when the booster gets weak, and should all that fail I can just plug the Z'd into the Landy with a jump lead between the plug'n'sockets. Had batteries part company with rally cars in the past, so went down the plug/socket route some years back.

Nice air box though, shame I'm injected:thumbs:
 

ks71z28

Forum User
Hi
I use a comercial plug/socket system simialr to those fitted to electric fork lift trucks http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/...ount=22&Ne=4294957561&N=4294965429+4294957505, it allows me to leave the battery inplace and just 'plug' in a booster battery, my landrover has the opposite socket fitted so I can plug in my booster to charge from it's main alternator when the booster gets weak, and should all that fail I can just plug the Z'd into the Landy with a jump lead between the plug'n'sockets. Had batteries part company with rally cars in the past, so went down the plug/socket route some years back.

Nice air box though, shame I'm injected:thumbs:
That is a great idea, the car has jumper lugs on the rear for the battery charger for between sessions, keep it simple and safe.
 

Nigel Brook

Well-Known Forum User
Sorry, but there is NO WAY I'd pay that sort of money for a piece of shaped cloth whatever it's made of. Think I must come from a different era( In fact I know I do) where value is paramount. In any case it would be of no use to me without being able to fit filters inside it onto my 48's (historic rules). Think I'll end up making one myself.
 
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