Camshaft | The Z Club of Great Britain
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Discussion in 'Parts and Other Items Wanted' started by Peato40, Aug 11, 2017.

  1. Peato40

    Z Club Member

    Hello All,

    Anybody got decent fast road cam for sale?

    As I'm building my engine, I find it has been equipped with a Kent GP1 cam, which is probably not going to give me the sort of drive I would like when I'm finished. I was planning to go with it and see how it behaved but then when building the head I found that I don't have the right lash pads and if I merely go bigger on the lash pads will likely need spring caps too. So rather than spend a shed load of money that may not give me the drive I would like, I thought it might be better to cut my loses and go for a less aggressive cam.

    All suggestions are welcome and many thanks in advance.

  2. johnymd

    Z Club Member

    I'm also interested in recommendations for a "drivable" all rounder cam to go in my 280/n42.
  3. Huw

    Z Club Member
    Staff Member

  4. pmac

    pmac Well-Known Forum User

    Here is my recommendation John.
    All based on reliable scientific data with printouts to back it up.
    Nissan L7 grind.
    Developed by Nissan for rallying back in the day. 99996-E1036
    Often copied seldom bettered.
    0.475 lift. 270deg duration
    Needs new Schnieder springs and matching deep seat spring caps and approx 160 lash pads.Or similar items of another high quality brand.
    Genuine Nissan item NLA but possible to get a regrind to that spec.
    On a L28 with decent compression(10.5ish) it will give good torque from 2500 to 6000.
    Expect peak power around 220hp @5700rpm depending on the quality of everything surrounding the cam and around 225torques at 4500.
    Figures from an engine from us and measured on a well respected test rig.

    You will probably need a "nice" set of 40dcoe webers in the mix;)
    I might be able to "find" some:rofl::rofl:

    And in case moderator thinks I am hijacking Phil/Peatos thread I can confirm Phill and myself have already had a similar conversation in private.
  5. Peato40

    Z Club Member

    Thanks Huw, I have been considering US suppliers and will go that route if necessary but thought I would look a bit closer to home first. I'll give Mike a call at MJP, thank you.

    Hello Johnymd, I can confirm that indeed Pete (pmac) and myself have had much discussion upon this subject and has helped me tremendously with the understanding of my engine and set, which ultimately lead to this original post. If had not been for Pete's advice I may have ended up putting my engine back together as it was and then needed to do a lot of corrective action afterwards or worse.
  6. franky

    Z Club Member

    Hi, I've a piper 286 going spare
  7. Peato40

    Z Club Member

    Hello Franky .... will PM you
  8. pmac

    pmac Well-Known Forum User

    Pointless quoting the duration without the lift.
  9. franky

    Z Club Member

    Its the model of Piper camshaft, so though the power of google he'll be able to get the rest of the details, or the old fashioned phone way.
  10. Nigel Brook

    Nigel Brook Active Forum User

    Would this be the cam commonly called the Datsun 74degree?
  11. SeanDezart

    Z Club Member
    Official Trader

    Might you share a dyno graph please Pete ? I have a chap over here desperately looking for a rallye cam after 'the specialist' here fitted one as part of an expensive build and...well, let's just say nothing worked as it should !
  12. Peato40

    Z Club Member

  13. dav118118

    Z Club Member

    Hi Phil,
    I have a cam that may suit you. It's a Kent cam designed for fast road. Check the photos for the cam code/ grind. It's barely been used as I've swapped it for a standard cam. I bought the car with this cam and triple webers and I've returned it to an original set up. The cam as far as I can see has absolutely no wear, or at least u cannot feel any wear and I don't think it had been in the car long before I removed it.

    If your interested pm me, I'm not looking for much just want to move it on to someone who will make use of it.


    Attached Files:

  14. jy.s30z

    jy.s30z New Forum User

    I apologize for bringing back an old topic. But I have a question for pmac.
    I just bought a Racer Brown 325-R regrind which is Nissan's 99996-E1036. My build is ~10.3:1 CR, 50mm ITB's using standalone EFI system. I'll be doing a very mild porting job, port matching the intake and valve shrouding in the combustion chamber.

    Should I expect the numbers you are stating ~220hp@5700rpm and 225torque@4500? Is this to the wheels or at the crank? Do you have any dyno sheets?

    Any information would be very helpful.
  15. AliK

    Z Club Committee
    Committee Member

    I have one of PMACs "nice" engines with that spec still running in. The figures are flywheel; take around 20-25% off for at wheels if your drivetrain is as mine, healthy but hungry!

    For the base tune on RR it did 120bhp at flywheel at 3.5k rpm so the tuner was predicting 200+ when properly ran in.

    I'm now giving it full rev range and throttle + on SU carbs, the power band he quotes is pretty spot on how it feels. With EFI I can only imagine you will improve things.

    For info I run a pertronix 3ohm coil and 280zx 21-80 dizzy, plugs gapped at 1.1mm and magnecor kv85 leads.

    Also have MSA 6-2-1 header into 2.5" exhaust and turbo muffler (see MSA site).

    All of this is a system and each bit has to work with the other so always tough to say what figures you will get.

    Ps. He is rarely on the site these days
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2018
  16. jy.s30z

    jy.s30z New Forum User

    Thank you for responding. What head were you running and what type of porting?
    200whp was my goal but I would be happy with anything over 180.
    I am also using 11lb flywheel which should help with drivetrain loss. I still haven't figured out my exhaust set-up. For my ignition, I am using a trigger wheel and LS coil over plug set-up.
  17. AliK

    Z Club Committee
    Committee Member

    Running an E88 head with large valves and a close shave - not sure about type of porting only that PMAC said someone (PO) spent A LOT of time doing it.



    From all I've read trigger wheel and plug coil packs appear to be the best way forward for accurate ignition timing.

    I also run a Fidanza flywheel and the car is so rev happy it's great! On the downside, smooth progress / cruise below 2k rpm is not realistic. But absolutely no drivability issues in stop / start traffic or pulling off.

    180 rwhp isn't uncommon on modified L28s - go for a progressive power curve over top trumps though and don't forget the majority (not all) of the power gains are made in the head, so spend good attention there.

    Also get a Kameari adjustable cam sprocket so you can play later and find ideal cam timing.
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2018
  18. AliK

    Z Club Committee
    Committee Member

    Ps. One of the most over looked but vital components is your damper. For a modified engine ditch the original. I went for an ATi super racing damper but the crank pulley on that is half the size of the original and turns your alternator / water pump / fan twice as slow. No real problems experienced there except for a small drop in voltage at idle but if I was to do It again, I would buy this ...

    Pricey but worth it.
  19. jy.s30z

    jy.s30z New Forum User

    Thanks for the tip.... I just bought a new stock damper because I wanted to run A/C. I did however ditch the mechanical fan and have two 12" electric fans.
    Your head doesn't look like an E88 because it has the fuel injector holes on top of the intake runners. Looks like N42 from 75-76 280z. Square exhaust ports, open chamber & fuel injector holes.
  20. johnymd

    Z Club Member

    I always thought the porting on that head was very good when I had it. It felt very good before Pete pulled it apart so I imagine it is superb now.
    AliK likes this.

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