Build thread of a novice.

[Huw]

Yes, it was a toss up between using it for a sidelight purpose, or for indicating. My sidelight (under the bumper) is now only an indicator as I'd removed the sidelight function. And my actual sidelight on the side of the car, remains a side light.

I originally was going to change the amber sidelight into an indicator and have the side bulb in the headlight as a sidelight as you've suggested.

At this point I'm only just putting it together, if it doesn't work the way I envisaged, then I'll change it about again.
I have seen on modern cars, the headlights dim down to allow the indicator to shine through, now there's an idea..

I like that idea Martin, be interested in how you get this to work.

 

[MCBladeRun]

I like that idea Martin, be interested in how you get this to work.

I've been thinking about it today, would be complex but, must be a simple solution to it. I'd think it would have to go further back in the circuit such as near the steering wheel controls?

The other thing is the lamps would have to be either able to dim down, and if not..

A normally closed, double pole relay for both main / dipped, and for both sides of the car, where the indicator wire that would go to the amber lamp below the bumper could set the relay to open.. Would also need to delay closing otherwise you'd get a flashing headlamp = I'm not an emergency vehicle!

Think the theory is sound, just need to research it. Haha love it

 

[toopy]

I hate the way some of the new led lights change to indicators and back again, why is that a good idea? seems daft to me!

I was behind an SUV the other day, think it was a Jag, and the indicator looked about the size of the long side of a matchbox! can't believe it's legal, bit of fog or heavy rain and you'd need binoculars to see it!!

 

[MCBladeRun]

Little update, got my headlights, relays and indicators set up the way I want them.

Dipped beam (I had to crouch down in order for the focus of the beam to be in view of the camera)
This is the main beam and I am stood upright, I should mention as well, the drive slopes downward away from the garage.
And finally, all 3x lights are amber indicators.

I blew my stop fuse twice trying to rig the Sidelights to function with the indicators - thought I needed to wire the earth into the black negative, turns out you don't. The side lights function OK just with the +ve? I probably was earthing the +ve from the Sidelights circuit, causing the 20amp fuse to blow.

The nice thing about the under bumper light is that it functions as both a side light and indicator. So I'll stick the side light back on when I get my clear lenses.

 

[MCBladeRun]

Wow, been over a year since I last updated this thread.

Well, I've been trying to enjoy the car, I've found a few issues that will get sorted when I eventually blow it apart - found a hole in the wheel arch on the rear towards the dog leg.

Zoomed in look at that - definitely will allow water to sit inside the dog leg and rust through further. Need a temporary solution to stop water ingress but, understandably it needs a professional fix in the long run.

New wheels that I'd bought off of Farmer42, that I had refurbished, they sit wider than my old ones giving the car a more planted stance. They almost fill those arches.

I got a part from rock auto to fix my reverse switch on my 5speed gearbox and this proves my reverse working - note that these are the 2- colour bulbs. One being (blinding) white and amber from the same portion of the light cluster.

If I haven't said already above in my build post, this was achieved by replacing the single contact bulb holder to a dual contact bulb holder via mixing another set of rear clusters. So it looks standard but isn't.

I've had some major kit turn up this week- above is the electric power steering gizmo that I hope to get installed sooner than the rest of what turned up.

Other parts were: suspension components, the Koni shocks, eibach springs, uprated top hat mounts from thezstore, polyurethane bushes, and a new e-brake cable from T3.

I've also bought replacement brake components that are original equipment. I'm just going to change what is currently there as, I'd like to be able to have a go at doing it myself and then I know how to take it apart in the future. Most of it is replaceable anyway and since at the moment I'm not putting big power in right this second, I should then know my way around the system. Ready to change to big brakes in the future.

I plan to do the suspension and brake refresh during the winter where I'll be using citric acid and more than likely getting parts soda blasted and refinished for longevity.

Power steering and uprated alternator I plan to do asap.

 

[toopy]

How much was the power steering kit landed in the UK please? I'm seriously considering a purchase

 

[MCBladeRun]

How much was the power steering kit landed in the UK please? I'm seriously considering a purchase

The truth is I don't know. I had it shipped to SacCyclone and from there it came over inside someone else's car? Sorry Toopy

 

[toopy]

The truth is I don't know. I had it shipped to SacCyclone and from there it came over inside someone else's car? Sorry Toopy

Ah ok, no worries was just curious, to be honest i really want to fit it so would pretty much pay whatever they want to charge!

 

[MCBladeRun]

Ah ok, no worries was just curious, to be honest i really want to fit it so would pretty much pay whatever they want to charge!

That's good then, I looked at the website recently and it says $1550. Which I think is what I bought it for. It also needs an uprated alternator.

My 40amp on the 240z isn't man enough as, the power steering motor is rated at 50amps. It would drain your battery in a heartbeat. I bought an 80amp that charges well at low rpm.

I'll post up pics when I'm done installing and try and get video on here of it working.

If money is too much, Farmer42 has done a pneumatic power steering system utilising a Subaru steering rack etc. IIRC there was one or two instances where a part surrounding the rack needed modification? Still, a worthwhile avenue to go down since parts are more readily available in the UK.

 

[chrisvega]

Ah ok, no worries was just curious, to be honest i really want to fit it so would pretty much pay whatever they want to charge!

Hi Toopy,

I have one of Greg's ZPS units that I had shipped over a while ago which may be surplus to requirements.
Still new in box, unopened and unused.

If you are interested (and assuming Richie P can find it somewhere in the barn) send me a pm.
Will be cheaper than importing one direct, stand alone - shipping costs are high and import VAT will be charged at 20% of invoiced amount.

 

[toopy]

Hi Toopy,

I have one of Greg's ZPS units that I had shipped over a while ago which may be surplus to requirements.
Still new in box, unopened and unused.

If you are interested (and assuming Richie P can find it somewhere in the barn) send me a pm.
Will be cheaper than importing one direct, stand alone - shipping costs are high and import VAT will be charged at 20% of invoiced amount.

Have sent PM

 

[toopy]

That's good then, I looked at the website recently and it says $1550. Which I think is what I bought it for. It also needs an uprated alternator.

My 40amp on the 240z isn't man enough as, the power steering motor is rated at 50amps. It would drain your battery in a heartbeat. I bought an 80amp that charges well at low rpm.

I'll post up pics when I'm done installing and try and get video on here of it working.

I have a new 60 amp alternator waiting on the shelf for exactly this reason.

If money is too much, Farmer42 has done a pneumatic power steering system utilising a Subaru steering rack etc. IIRC there was one or two instances where a part surrounding the rack needed modification? Still, a worthwhile avenue to go down since parts are more readily available in the UK.

In the past this was a consideration, but I'm not one for fabrication and now the electric option is readily available, it's pricey but pretty much plug and play

 

[MCBladeRun]

Have sent PM

Sweet, you may have gotten one a lot easier than it might have been

I have a new 60 amp alternator waiting on the shelf for exactly this reason.



In the past this was a consideration, but I'm not one for fabrication and now the electric option is readily available, it's pricey but pretty much plug and play

I'm glad, let me know on here how you get on, I'm planning on installing mine this week.

 

[toopy]

I'm glad, let me know on here how you get on, I'm planning on installing mine this week.

I have quite a list of bits to do on mine, trouble is it's not garaged at the house and finding the time and enthusiasm, especially with the shite weather lately, is really tough

 

[candy red]

That's good then, I looked at the website recently and it says $1550. Which I think is what I bought it for. It also needs an uprated alternator.

My 40amp on the 240z isn't man enough as, the power steering motor is rated at 50amps. It would drain your battery in a heartbeat. I bought an 80amp that charges well at low rpm.

I'll post up pics when I'm done installing and try and get video on here of it working.

If money is too much, Farmer42 has done a pneumatic power steering system utilising a Subaru steering rack etc. IIRC there was one or two instances where a part surrounding the rack needed modification? Still, a worthwhile avenue to go down since parts are more readily available in the UK.

At that price it would be cheaper to get a gym membership for a year and build your muscles up

 

[Bazzateer]

At that price it would be cheaper to get a gym membership for a year and build your muscles up

But it's the time. A year's worth of travelling to/from the gym plus the time on the weights or a weekend in the garage fitting power steering?

 

[toopy]

But it's the time. A year's worth of travelling to/from the gym plus the time on the weights or a weekend in the garage fitting power steering?

And you haven't got to worry about missing leg week either no one (some might!) wants Barbies legs and Arnies shoulders, with or without a Z!

 

[MCBladeRun]

But it's the time. A year's worth of travelling to/from the gym plus the time on the weights or a weekend in the garage fitting power steering?

I think weight lifting a bigger alternator and the power steering motor into place will give Dwayne Johnson a run for his money lol

 

[MCBladeRun]

This week I did as I said and attempted to put the power steering in.

First job was upgrading my alternator to generate enough power for the power steering motor - this is at 50 amps. So my thoughts were that my 40amp alt isn't going to cut the mustard.


At the moment my wiring is very crude and my thoughts are that it will get redone with a new loom at a later stage.
There are 4 wires that went to my old alternator:

White with red stripe. This goes all the way to the fusebox in the centre console. This is the charging wire, so goes on the insulated bolt/nut.

Black. This is the earth. I can see on the FSM that it goes straight to the old voltage regulator but the alternator is also generally earthed via its bolts to the engine etc.

Yellow. Also goes to the old voltage regulator. This is the wire that, along with the plug-in you should buy when going with an upgraded alternator, essentially switches the engine off from the ignition switch. Without this key component the engine will continue to run it is also not used on the new alternator.

White with black. This is the switched 12 volt wire that excites the alternator or, with an internal regulator, enables it.

For my alternator, there is a plug that in the above photo, you can see there is a green wire and a red wire. The green links to the yellow for excitation and the red I've through-crimped and wired in to the battery.

This particular connection is the sense wire that senses the voltage at the battery. I'm concerned that the seller of the alternator (Zcardepot) instructed to attach this red wire to the insulated generating post of the alternator. Which would pick up a higher voltage, fooling the internal voltage regulator in to thinking the battery is charged and therefore, not charging the battery.

(I will point out that there is an argument as to the resistance of the cable used would negate the above mentioned scenario)

I wasn't satisfied with the size of the white with red stripe cable, so I also added a larger gauge red cable, from the alternator to the starting motor (as it was closer than my battery and looked tidier).

New battery - I would have liked a Bosch platinum S5 or possibly S6. But there is none available on the market at the moment. I took advice and decided upon this Yuasa model. This has 720CCA which is a good amount for this car as it has electronic ignition. I did research and found that anywhere between 600 and 800 is a good amount for my needs.

I've also snapped my positive terminal. I have replacements but, no one has the proper battery cables off the shelf so, I will research and buy the correct length and gauge.

The Battery salesman also gifted me with some wisdom:
Constantly keeping your battery on trickle charge is a bad habit. This leads to actually weakening the battery over time. The correct method, would be to leave the battery for around 10 days, with a day of trickle charging followed by another 10 days not charging. Of course keeping the battery disconnected is a better method as well as a battery isolator.

Also, anytime the battery goes below 12 volts of charge, the battery acid breaks down, creating a build up of sulfur that eats away at the plates. But I think that's a well known problem that's always been associated with battery care.

With both battery and alternator prepared, I made a start on the power steering. As a DIY kind of guy with moderate mechanical skills let me just say that this has been the single most hardest thing I've had to do with the car so far.

Luckily the parts are straight forward to deduce what goes where.
This is the part I struggled most with: the coupler bracket that attaches to the steering rod(?) splines. I soaked it overnight in penetrating oil to help loosen the part and gave it a few choice words then a wack from a hammer and it came off.



So the rest is just attaching to the steering rod and mounting the motor in place via a straight swap. For me this was quite difficult as, there were more splines, which requires a mountain of effort to attach together, along with grub screws holding them in position.

In terms of engineering, there's a lot more moving parts, 2 instead of 1 universal joint which, I think makes it better if involved in a head-on collision, this would collapse should the worst happen if my research is correct.

This was a work-in-progress photo where I had given up one evening. This is now fully mounted and the ignition barrel, headlight switch and indicator stalk with the clamshell all replaced. The motor is tucked up neatly to the left and does not hinder the pedal box levers.

Finally I've yet to wire in the control box for it needs to be mounted to the firewall and I'd like a fresh head before I do this. More photos and a video to follow!


[edited to correct alternator wiring, per later @Rob Gaskin post]

 

[Jay.]

Great work! I'd love to get some power steering installed in mine, I have a fairly tight corner to turn into my garage and it certainly gives the arm muscles a work out.