BC Racing Colivers for 240z

strugrat

Club Member
Hi Guys,

Just thought I would mention these as an alternative to some of the other kits. You might have seen the Hybrid z thread on these here:

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117236-bc-racing-coilovers-for-s30-time-to-buy/

I contacted the guy on there who stated that he wouldn't send to the UK. I have just ordered a set from the UK site/distributor inc 4 camber plates for £799 plus £9.20 delivery, which I think is pretty good!

Might be a good option for some of you. Of course do your own research before buying (as I did) as something else may suit you better.

I am not affiliated to BC or any of the distributors but haven't seen them mentioned on here so thought I would post a thread.

My car is some way from being finished so I wont be able to give a review anytime soon I am afraid! However saying that I am sure that will be more than adequate for me!

Thanks
Ryan
 

moggy240

Insurance Valuations Officer
Staff member
Club Member
I presume that is the weld on version ,be good to see some pictures as that seems a good price with the camber plates aswell
 

richiep

Club Member
Interesting. Makes for a good value alternative weld-on solution (as opposed to piecing it all together).
 

johnymd

Club Member
I really cat see how this type of system will work without enlarging the hole in the top of the strutt tower. How would you get to the 4 Allen bolts to adjust the camber? If you adjust the camber with the strutts off the car then the damper adjuster would no longer be in the centre of the original hole so you probable wont be able to adjust the damping without removing the strutt again.

Please enlighten me as I think there is is a market for a product like this that works.
 

strugrat

Club Member
Yeah its weld on version. Instructions seem pretty straightforward. I was pretty happy with the price.

I only read positive reviews for BC stuff (ok one or two negative but I have read negative reviews on Ohlins stuff)

I am not 100% sure on the camber adjustment. I will have to try it before I can comment fully, which will be a while. I would hope that they had thought about it before releasing the kit.

However I will use my car mainly on the road so it will be set once and then forget hopefully. If the rebound adjuster is too far off center then you can use cable adjuster extenders which would solve it.

Will post some pics up when they arrive (2 weeks or so)
 
The bolt on camber adjusters do have their use, can you use these with the rubber isolators?

Ignoring the camber adjustment, how do you think these would compare to a gaz setup(matched damping and spring rates etc)?

I was 100%going for gaz, however now I'm looking at some really good quality koni inserts and a weld on kit.
 

richiep

Club Member
The bolt on camber adjusters do have their use, can you use these with the rubber isolators?
[\QUOTE]

There is a photo on the HybridZ thread showing them with the factory rubber isolators on top instead of the camber plates.
 

strugrat

Club Member
Not 100% sure on the isolator question. I found the UK BC Website people very helpful so I would recommend contacting them they will speak to the factory directly. They are imported through Apex Performance in Bradford.

As for comparison with Gaz I don't think I am qualified to answer that question. I have my own reasons for not going with Gaz and tbh I liked the BC design. I was also going to go Koni (double adjustable race dampers) but didn't want a lot of parts from the US in case I had issues and it was working out quite expensive (maybe worth it but doubt I am a good enough driver to get the best out of them).

The BC dampers are matched to the spring rate I am told and are also matched as a set to within 2% (read on another forum). Are fully rebuildable and serviceable should I need it as well.

As I say best to do your own research as they may/may not suit you.

As for the camber plates, there are two options either the no cut 3 bolt fitting option (which I have ordered) or the four bolt (drilling and cutting required - but extra adjustment available) option.
 

atomman

Club Member
here you go

10665953_566120153516343_6795373358512166192_n.jpg


1972296_566120126849679_5604693417132946737_n.jpg


1970546_566120196849672_6058783690802882034_n.jpg


10384047_566120083516350_4490478875708023618_n.jpg


is there any rubber bushes on the top mount ? or are they just solid with a sperical bearing ?

I have designed some thing similar for my car, I don't wont to cut out the top strut mount if I can help it


Gary
 

richiep

Club Member
Like the look of these a lot. Spring rates seem sensible too, rather than overly aggressive/hard (4kg/224lbs, and 5kg/280lbs). like the way the bottom has not been painted, to allow for that to be done post welding.

I suppose the only hoo-hah would be the need to drop the strut to access the camber adjustment if you were going to muck about with it much (I personally wouldn't).

This might lead me to change direction from trying to rebuild the old Janspeed struts I have lying around (which are rusty as hell and awkward from a strut cartridge size perspective). Easier to chop them off at 2" and have these welded on...
 

strugrat

Club Member
here you go

10665953_566120153516343_6795373358512166192_n.jpg


1972296_566120126849679_5604693417132946737_n.jpg


1970546_566120196849672_6058783690802882034_n.jpg


10384047_566120083516350_4490478875708023618_n.jpg


is there any rubber bushes on the top mount ? or are they just solid with a sperical bearing ?

I have designed some thing similar for my car, I don't wont to cut out the top strut mount if I can help it


Gary

Thanks for posting the pics.

From the website they are solid pillowball top mounts. I think they will be fine on the road hopefully.

Like the look of these a lot. Spring rates seem sensible too, rather than overly aggressive/hard (4kg/224lbs, and 5kg/280lbs). like the way the bottom has not been painted, to allow for that to be done post welding.

I suppose the only hoo-hah would be the need to drop the strut to access the camber adjustment if you were going to muck about with it much (I personally wouldn't).

This might lead me to change direction from trying to rebuild the old Janspeed struts I have lying around (which are rusty as hell and awkward from a strut cartridge size perspective). Easier to chop them off at 2" and have these welded on...

I am very happy with them and I was more comfortable with the sensible spring rates than some of the other manufacturers proposed to me. Although you can spec whatever rate you like and they will valve them for you. Another bonus is they seem straightforward to fit and the 2" tube will act as a good guide to get them welded on correctly.

I am popping to see my car at thee workshop on Saturday so I might bring a strut along and see what the camber bolt access is like just roughly bolted up. I will report back here my findings here.
 

strugrat

Club Member
I really cat see how this type of system will work without enlarging the hole in the top of the strutt tower. How would you get to the 4 Allen bolts to adjust the camber? If you adjust the camber with the strutts off the car then the damper adjuster would no longer be in the centre of the original hole so you probable wont be able to adjust the damping without removing the strutt again.

Please enlighten me as I think there is is a market for a product like this that works.

Like the look of these a lot. Spring rates seem sensible too, rather than overly aggressive/hard (4kg/224lbs, and 5kg/280lbs). like the way the bottom has not been painted, to allow for that to be done post welding.

I suppose the only hoo-hah would be the need to drop the strut to access the camber adjustment if you were going to muck about with it much (I personally wouldn't).

This might lead me to change direction from trying to rebuild the old Janspeed struts I have lying around (which are rusty as hell and awkward from a strut cartridge size perspective). Easier to chop them off at 2" and have these welded on...

I can confirm that to properly access the camber adjustment bolts with the strut fitted you will have to cut the top mount or adjust the camber by dropping the strut.

Mine is a road car so it doesn't bother me but just FYI for those that asked.:thumbs:
 

johnymd

Club Member
The "set and forget" approach for camber adjustment should be fine for most. I never adjust mine now its set about right. I could never see how you could adjust this with the strutt on the car, without cutting out a section of the strutt tower. The damping is something I adjust all the time though, from track to drag to road use. I feel if increase the camber to a track suitable position you will then struggle to get to the damper adjust. Is this true? Apart from this, the setup looks really good.
 

strugrat

Club Member
The access to the damper adjuster looked pretty good during my quick mock up yesterday so I don't think that it will be an issue thankfully. I think like you I wont touch the camber once it is set but I would be inclined to play with the damper settings.

Overall I'm still pretty happy with them but I admit it would be better if you could access the camber bolts. I really didn't want to weld in camber plates though.
 

s2k_adz

Club Member
Dragging up an old thread here guys!

How can the camber be adjusted properly if it has to be done with it off the car? Doesn't this mean adjusting it, putting it on and bolting it up, measuring the camber then if its not right, repeating it all again?
 

johnymd

Club Member
Yep. Unless you cut a great big hole in the top of the strutt. Still look like great value if the damping's ok.
 

strugrat

Club Member
Mine are not fitted yet due to the shell restoration taking an epically long time.

Few guys in the states have them on with good reviews. Check out Hybrid Z.
 

richiep

Club Member
Member Leo40z has them on his car (240Z with turbo L28) - he came to the Samuri Gathering on the Saturday. Apparently he was very impressed with them. He was saying he kept them set on soft for road use as they were great like that. And as for the needing to drop the strut for setting camber - well the view was, for a road car, once set, you really don't need to be able to mess with that very often. So it's a limited inconvenience.
 
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