Avocado Green 1972 UK RHD 240z Project

Paul Henley

Club Member
Got to congratulate you on your buy, looks a great candidate for a good restoration. Been seriously considering doing another resto if the right car comes along, this is definitely the right car, if you have change of plan, happy to take it off your hands for what you paid EXTRA:D
 

Rushingphil

Club Member
Got to congratulate you on your buy, looks a great candidate for a good restoration. Been seriously considering doing another resto if the right car comes along, this is definitely the right car, if you have change of plan, happy to take it off your hands for what you paid EXTRA:D

Thanks Paul,

I'll bear that in mind when I've spent all my pension fund EXTRA;)
 

Rushingphil

Club Member
Had a bit of an 'Oh Sh*t' moment last night! Started to clean some of the 38 year old grime off the car and found this seam on the roof edge to rear quarter panel - instantly thought, boll*cks, it's had a new roof at some time :eek:

Took the inner trim panel off and thought, that's strange, looks pretty factory made to me!

Went to bed and did some research only to find that it was made like that - maybe just a bit of shrinkage in its old age (I know how it feels :() woke up a lot happier ! Spent half an hour with my baby polisher on the top of the front wing - doesn't need a respray after all :rofl::rofl:

Drivers side was a lot better though..

DSCF2970.JPG DSCF2973.JPG DSCF2974.JPG DSCF2971.JPG
 

MaximG

Well-Known Forum User
Yep that’s just the join between roof skin and rear quarter think it’s a lead run joint. Nothing to worry about .
 

Rushingphil

Club Member
Have you seen Paul's car Phil? Have a look.

http://www.necrestorationshow.com/restorer-year-final-voting

It only went and won! A magnificent example.

Hi Mike,

OOPS - Feel a bit small now :oops: I'm new to the club and z world and, although I've read many many threads, have completely missed Paul's - read the link and will be reading Paul's build thread later tonight!

Paul - WOW, what can I say - I almost feel that I owe it to my car to sell it to you so you can do it justice! I could never achieve a finish like that! Will give it some thought!

Phil
 

Paul Henley

Club Member
1
Hi Mike,

OOPS - Feel a bit small now :oops: I'm new to the club and z world and, although I've read many many threads, have completely missed Paul's - read the link and will be reading Paul's build thread later tonight!

Paul - WOW, what can I say - I almost feel that I owe it to my car to sell it to you so you can do it justice! I could never achieve a finish like that! Will give it some thought!

Phil

No need Phil, there's loads of good advice on this forum and we all have our own goals, priorities and likes and dislikes with Z's. Personally I would strip the car and get the shell blasted, firmly believe it's the best way to find any hidden corrosion and give you access to deal with it. Mechanically and electrically Z's are pretty basic to work on (as were many of that era, unlike today's cars) their main weakness is in the body and I didn't have the skills to deal with it and certainly didn't want to gain those skills practising on my car . However, as I said you'll find loads of differing views on what to do on here, it's your car, do it the way YOU want it, I always liked to read the comments of members who admit to getting things wrong so that I could learn from them. We should comprise a list on hear of the most common ones, I'd be happy to contribute to it , anyway, love your car mate and please keep us all updated with progress, don't be shy about asking for help on here, even if it sometimes feels like a response is slow.
Paul
 

Rushingphil

Club Member
1


No need Phil, there's loads of good advice on this forum and we all have our own goals, priorities and likes and dislikes with Z's. Personally I would strip the car and get the shell blasted, firmly believe it's the best way to find any hidden corrosion and give you access to deal with it. Mechanically and electrically Z's are pretty basic to work on (as were many of that era, unlike today's cars) their main weakness is in the body and I didn't have the skills to deal with it and certainly didn't want to gain those skills practising on my car . However, as I said you'll find loads of differing views on what to do on here, it's your car, do it the way YOU want it, I always liked to read the comments of members who admit to getting things wrong so that I could learn from them. We should comprise a list on hear of the most common ones, I'd be happy to contribute to it , anyway, love your car mate and please keep us all updated with progress, don't be shy about asking for help on here, even if it sometimes feels like a response is slow.
Paul

Thanks Paul,
Read your thread last - just lovely :bow: I guess you still have it?

I'm just tinkering with it at the moment to try and find out what sort of state it's really in. Much as I know that the best way to go would be a full bare metal respray, I don't really think I could afford to do that at the moment. I haven't investigated how much it would cost or where to get it done in the Hampshire area, but I would imagine it would be in the thousands (I have read the posts on Ian's thread). I'm just reading as much as I can so I don't completely cock things up!
 
Thanks Paul,
Read your thread last - just lovely :bow: I guess you still have it?

I'm just tinkering with it at the moment to try and find out what sort of state it's really in. Much as I know that the best way to go would be a full bare metal respray, I don't really think I could afford to do that at the moment. I haven't investigated how much it would cost or where to get it done in the Hampshire area, but I would imagine it would be in the thousands (I have read the posts on Ian's thread). I'm just reading as much as I can so I don't completely cock things up!

Ian has take his to one of the most expensive 'smaller' places in south. you'd knock 50% off easily.
 

Paul Henley

Club Member
Thanks Paul,
Read your thread last - just lovely [emoji144] I guess you still have it?

I'm just tinkering with it at the moment to try and find out what sort of state it's really in. Much as I know that the best way to go would be a full bare metal respray, I don't really think I could afford to do that at the moment. I haven't investigated how much it would cost or where to get it done in the Hampshire area, but I would imagine it would be in the thousands (I have read the posts on Ian's thread). I'm just reading as much as I can so I don't completely cock things up!
Yeah Phil, still have it, its destined to be a family heirloom, though no doubt as soon as the coffin lid goes down it will appear on ebay "open to offers" bless them.... From memory my body shop bill was in the region of 9k. But they did everything. Blasting, panel fabrication/repairs/fitment and alignment (a lot of time can go into getting good panel fits/gaps) and I had the painting done in 2 stages, I guess what you'd term 1st fix (underneath, interior and engine bay with an initial coating to the remaining shell) then once I had the running gear, brakes, engine etc (basically moving under it's own steam) it went back for "2nd fix" ie all panels painted, fitted/aligned and final body coat, including repairs to the scratches and damages I'd done fitting it out, then the sexy stuff like interior, lights, chrome etc was fitted. At the end of the day mate, spend what your happy to spend (while juggling all the other financial demands that life throws at you) and do it to the standard your happy with, not that of the guy leaning over the garden fence offering "if it was mine" advice
 
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Rushingphil

Club Member
Yeah Phil, still have it, its destined to be a family heirloom, though no doubt as soon as the coffin lid goes down it will appear on ebay "open to offers" bless them.... From memory my body shop bill was in the region of 9k. But they did everything. Blasting, panel fabrication/repairs/fitment and alignment (a lot of time can go into getting good panel fits/gaps) and I had the painting done in 2 stages, I guess what you'd term 1st fix (underneath, interior and engine bay with an initial coating to the remaining shell) then once I had the running gear, brakes, engine etc (basically moving under it's own steam) it went back for "2nd fix" ie all panels painted, fitted/aligned and final body coat, including repairs to the scratches and damages I'd done fitting it out, then the sexy stuff like interior, lights, chrome etc was fitted. At the end of the day mate, spend what your happy to spend (while juggling all the other financial demands that life throws at you) and do it to the standard your happy with, not that of the guy leaning over the garden fence offering "if it was mine" advice


Know what you been about the kids - I have 2 boys who will be counting the time down :rofl:
Many thanks for the sound advice :thumbs:
 

tel240z

Club Member
Phil
i remember this car when it went up for sale and thought then that it was going to be good, now i have seen the pictures as others have said its a testament of being unused in a garage all these years its better than my first Z i bought when it was only 7 years old, i love the originality of the car IMO Don't strip the inside out or get it blasted it will loose all of its history just inject all those cavity's with dinitrol , maybe glass out engine and suspension some local quality repairs and a paint in due course, your lucky it wasn't round the corner to me or it would have been me posting pictures on here, i think you will enjoy getting it mobile enjoying it for a bit and will give you something to do while you plan what direction you going to take great car great buy as they say find another

Terry
 

Rushingphil

Club Member
Phil
i remember this car when it went up for sale and thought then that it was going to be good, now i have seen the pictures as others have said its a testament of being unused in a garage all these years its better than my first Z i bought when it was only 7 years old, i love the originality of the car IMO Don't strip the inside out or get it blasted it will loose all of its history just inject all those cavity's with dinitrol , maybe glass out engine and suspension some local quality repairs and a paint in due course, your lucky it wasn't round the corner to me or it would have been me posting pictures on here, i think you will enjoy getting it mobile enjoying it for a bit and will give you something to do while you plan what direction you going to take great car great buy as they say find another

Terry

Hi, many thanks Terry,
I think that's exactly the way I want to proceed at the moment. I really don't want to touch the inside of the car as it's so nice and original. I think that I do need to scrape some of the original under-seal off under the floor pans etc, to make sure that it's not the sound deadening holding the car together! that's then easy to re-apply. There's lots of work to be done to just get it driving and stopping, and preventative work to stop it decaying any further. Am really looking forward to it :)

May be a slight delay though :( wifey wants me to finish the bathroom I started last year :rofl:

Regarding the dinitrol - and a question for everyone who has experience .......... I've used and like the Bilt Hamber products in the past, I think their cavity wax is called dynax or something - any like for like comparisons please?
 

uk66fastback

Club Member
As I was visiting a friend in the area over Fri/Sat I popped round to Phil's for a look at his car and as everyone has said and with my limited knowledge of Zs in general can confirm, it's exactly as it looks. Outer sills, front wing bottoms and rear arches rusted but other than that, it looks a very sound, original, UK car. Everything is there, all in decent, restorable nick (most of it) and presents a solid base for a restoration. I would do exactly as Terry suggests, this car doesn't require a rotisserie rebuild. The interior needs cleaning and restoring but it's all there so no hunting for the odd part. Like I'm doing with mine (slowly) a lot of the original parts can be restored. It's amazing how some of these can turn out with a decent amount of time spent on on them).

I've been using the Bilt Hamber products on the 944 and they're excellent. The S-50 is the one for the cavities and the UB is the one to coat the floor underneath.

Many thanks to Phil for his hospitality yesterday, will of course be watching what he does with interest, and he has made me consider a thread on my own car, which hasn't really appeared on here that much since I bought it in 2015.
 
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Rushingphil

Club Member
As I was visiting a friend in the area over Fri/Sat I popped round to Phil's for a look at his car and as everyone has said and with my limited knowledge of Zs in general can confirm, it's exactly as it looks. Outer sills, front wing bottoms and rear arches rusted but other than that, it looks a very sound, original, UK car. Everything is there, all in decent, restorable nick (most of it) and presents a solid base for a restoration. I would do exactly as Terry suggests, this car doesn't require a rotisserie rebuild. The interior needs cleaning and restoring but it's all there so no hunting for the odd part. Like I'm doing with mine (slowly) a lot of the original parts can be restored. It's amazing how some of these can turn out with a decent amount of time spent on on them).



I've been using the Bilt Hamber products on the 944 and they're excellent. The S-50 is the one for the cavities and the UB is the one to coat the floor underneath.

Many thanks to Phil for his hospitality yesterday, will of course be watching what he does with interest, and he has made me consider a thread on my own car, which hasn't really appeared on here that much since I bought it in 2015.

Hi Mike,

Many thanks for popping round and putting up with my rambling on! Thoughly enjoyed our chat and learning from your experiences!

Looking forward to seeing your 'new' build thread!!!
 

richiep

Club Member
I'll join the chorus - don't do a bare shell, bare metal restoration. Targeted, high quality metalwork repairs, glass out external respray (and engine bay, etc.) but try not to mess with stuff that doesn't need it. Where the original paint is still decent outside might give a reasonable base for repaint (i.e. you may not need a total bare-metal strip on the external panels, just flattening, sealing, etc. of areas not requiring repair). The major advantage you have with that car is what you see is what you get - there's no litany of previous hack job repairs and overdose of filler. So not a lot of stuff that needs removing through blasting/dipping etc. As for bolt-on parts and trim, that can be a running restoration. Whip the engine and trans out during the bodywork phase and give them a cosmetic and service parts do over.

This could be a superb standard-spec UK car when done. You've done great buying it. Despite me liking my Zs "spiced up" a bit, I'd love a car like that just to restore as close to standard/period correct as possible and enjoy it precisely as that.
 
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