Discussion in 'Rebuilds and restorations' started by Rushingphil, Nov 24, 2019.
Wow that looks like a submarine. You'll blast the car away.
Nice to have the kit though I'm sure.
Blimey, that's some serious kit!
Wow Phil - that's a whopper! How many cfm is that beast? Does it have an integrated air dryer or separate? It all looks very tidy - great job!
I promise I'll be gentle
It's 28cfm air displacement = 18cfm Free Air Delivery . I don't have a full on air dryer - only the air filter regular + coalescer you can see on the floor next to the compressor. Hence the 9m of copper pipework to help cool the air before it enters the filter.
Very nice, could do with that, where did you get it from?
Do you think thicker piping would have benefited you from increased flow?
I bought it from RTech Welding who were the cheapest I could find; and I've bought welders from them in the past. Good company IMO.
Regarding the thicker piping; no, I don't think so:
My hard piping is 15mm copper pipe = 13.5mm ID
My Quick Release fittings are PCL XF (Euro) = 8mm ID
My flex hose is 8mm ID
and the fitting on the vacuum blaster is some strange Chinese fitting = 7mm ID
Hope this helps
NB. This needs a 32A supply, so I had to upgrade my garage electrics. I now have a 50A supply with a dedicated 32A supply for the compressor and a dedicated 16A supply for my welder
once it’s running it won’t pull too much. Some sort of sequential start and you’d get it running for a 13amp plug . One hell of a compressor!
In theory you could wire it into 2 x 13A sockets. One for each motor. They are 3hp 2.2kw so draw almost 10A each.
As it is, they both run through one control box and do have a sequential timer, so one starts a few seconds before the other.
Thanks for that, could be helpful when I get around to my garage fitout.
I've been continuing with the underside prep. Have finished scraping all the bulk of the underseal off and started blasting again. However, not removing ALL the underseal really slows down the blasting. Consequently, I'm going over it all again using a heat gun and hand scraper so there's only a very fine smear left on; then using the blaster to prepare the surface for the epoxy primer.
Passenger side footwell now finished - I masked off the floor-pan rails as I'm probably going to be removing them so I can repair the rusted seams. Unfortunately that will also mean removing the internal sound deadening
Have also discovered some more rust at the back of the floor-pan which will need repairing
As UK floorpans go, that looks pretty good!
I think so too. That looks really good considering!
Fantastic job so far!
Thanks, yes; the only rust is from between the seams - including the bit at the back of the floor pan on one side only
Not sure what I want to do about the dents in the floor-pan (I guess caused by jacking the car up on them )?
Leave them as part of the patina or try to straighten them? Problem is I'd probably make them worse!
What's the common consensus please?
Great work Phil. Looks like your blasting setup is making a good job of things. I'd be very interested to hear what people think about that question as my floor pans and rails look as though they've been used by Rocky when he got tired of hitting that side of beef . Mine are in way worse condition than yours though so I suspect I'll end up replacing mine anyway.
Looking good old man! Nice "light" project, eh!
Hey thanks for the reply and the info much apprecaited . Mark from Minksport has said he has one which is great and just wating to here back when he finds it . Good luck witht he restoration , you just have to keep plugging away , how much have you now done?
Give them a few whacks and sort them out!
Well... carefully placed whacks with a hammer and dolly and get yourself a stud welder gun. Then you can use a slide hammer to coax the dents out.
Those floors look really good for a UK car, as has been noted. There's a real contrast between their cleanness and the state of the dogleg/sill return next door!
Replacing the underfloor supports is an option if you want to get the rust out the seams, but FYI, the ones like those from Andy Plant/woody are lower profile than the factory ones, which means the triangular gusset piece under the frame rail behind the tension/compression rod brackets at the front will need some modifications to create a smooth transition. My next Dixie update will show what I mean on this, as I had to add a new gusset to the new right frame rail, which I ended up making from scratch versus using the APS one (which was completely wrong; I think Andy may have altered the design subsequently). On the left, where the original chassis rail and gusset are present, I've got to replace part of the underside of the gusset to make it shallower to connect to the APS floor support.
When Mark finds his filler pipe, if it is hard and brittle, I still have a vat of my solution in use. I only live a few miles from Mark so could could collect it and try any soften it for you if you like?
Unfortunately, my restoration has been put on hold since last May. Cut a long story short, I was asked to do a bit of part time work after the first lockdown. This has now evolved into a full time job. I've gone from Time Rich, Cash Poor, to Cash Rich, Time Poor. However, on the back of that, the car is going down to a restoration shop on Friday, to get the front right chassis rail adjusted
I'll try and get the photos posted
Separate names with a comma.