Avocado Green 1972 UK RHD 240z Project | Page 14 | The Z Club of Great Britain
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Avocado Green 1972 UK RHD 240z Project

Discussion in 'Rebuilds and restorations' started by Rushingphil, Nov 24, 2019.

  1. franky

    franky Well-Known Forum User

    it'll work, however I had mine bolted to the front where the bumper mounts go, on the rear where the bumper mounts go.

    Span like a dream upside down and no signs of flex.
     
    Rushingphil likes this.
  2. Rushingphil

    Rushingphil
    Z Club Member

    Thanks Jason. I thought that the front bumper mount positions might not be strong enough - esp. As I've drilled out some of the spot welds on the driver's side air intake!
     
  3. MaximG

    MaximG
    Z Club Member

    Phil your not the only one I didn't trust the front bumper mounts either, only seems to be fairly thin sheet metal to me. Especially when the car is on its side. I mounted on the sides of the chassis rails.
     
    Rushingphil likes this.
  4. Rushingphil

    Rushingphil
    Z Club Member

    In preparation for putting the car on the rotisserie, I needed to get my hydraulic scissor lift out of the way and under the mx5. Unfortunately it was facing the wrong way, so had to turn it round. It weighs 350kg and I once tore all the ligaments in one of my fingers trying to pull it sideways :banghead: , so I made up another castor wheel so it spins around in its own length

    20200423_171453.jpg 20200423_171506.jpg 20200423_174623.jpg 20200423_182043.jpg
     
    MaximG likes this.
  5. Rushingphil

    Rushingphil
    Z Club Member

    After waiting 10 days for a couple of brackets to arrive, finally got the car on the rotisserie. I struggled with the brackets and mounting points to get the front and rear pivot points at the same height but finally got them close - just 1cm difference and the car certainly spins freely. Unlike Jon (Tyroguru) my kids were no use at all and I had to do it on my own :-(
     

    Attached Files:

    MaximG and IbanezDan51 like this.
  6. uk66fastback

    uk66fastback
    Z Club Member

    That looks great Phil. It's all SO much easier on one of these ... they're a pleasure to work with, on the whole.
     
    Rushingphil likes this.
  7. Rushingphil

    Rushingphil
    Z Club Member

    Thanks Mike, looking forward to spending the next few weeks standing/sitting/kneeling rather than lying on my back swallowing all that crap!
     
    MaximG likes this.
  8. Rushingphil

    Rushingphil
    Z Club Member

    Spent the day scraping off the stone-chip from the passenger side footwell. On the whole I am happy with the condition of the metalwork - it's excellent; but - the inner seam on the chassis rail is badly corroded and has even left a hole in the floor :eek:

    Clearly, the rest of the seam isn't in much better condition so will need to be addressed, but what is the best way to tackle it? I was really hoping to leave the interior as 'untouched' as possible.

    Options:

    Replace the whole chassis rail under the floor pan from just aft of the footwell? Forward from the footwell looks good

    Cut and replace just the inner half - the outer seam looks in great condition for the full length.

    Bodge it with bog and pretend it was never an issue - sorry, only joking :rofl:

    Thoughts please!! And - is the sound deadening inside the car flammable, and do I need to remove it all first :eek:

    IMG-20200503-WA0000.jpeg 20200503_181819.jpg 20200503_181908.jpg 20200503_182635.jpg 20200503_182118.jpg
     
    Robbie J likes this.
  9. tyroguru

    tyroguru
    Z Club Member

    Well done Phil! Total respect for managing to get it all mounted on your own. I still can't get over how easy the whole shell rotates though - it's fabulous. I was putting a metal top and splash backs on my bench at the weekend to create a welding area and my kids were all hiding in the house so I had to do it on my own! The youth of today just don't want the work :) .

    Your frame supports and floor in general are in *way* better condition than mine. My passenger side support is shot and the floor has a number of holes while the drivers side is slightly better but the floor is very misshapen and I can only assume someone jacked the car directly in the floor!?
     
    Rushingphil likes this.
  10. 8658kv

    8658kv
    Z Club Member

    Morning Phil

    If you're going to weld below, good idea to remove. Sound deadening on floors will melt and catch fire.
    Easy way to remove and a bit of fun, (video below If it works). Or I've used a co2 fire extinguisher in a cloth bag, saves a lot of time deadening just becomes brittle.

    Keep up the good work.

    Steve

     
    Rushingphil likes this.
  11. Rushingphil

    Rushingphil
    Z Club Member

    Thanks Jon, in fairness to my 'kids' - one lives 90 miles away and the other is in the USA :rofl:
     
    tyroguru likes this.
  12. Rushingphil

    Rushingphil
    Z Club Member

    Thanks for the advice Steve - I'm hoping to remove as little as possible, so may just cut a thin strip out from where the spot welds are and see how I get on!
     
  13. Ian

    Ian
    Z Club Member

    Great, sure you can progress well now that its on the rotisserie.
     
  14. peter_s

    peter_s
    Z Club Member

    Well done!

    That floor doesn't look too bad. Looking at that dog leg I would expect it to be much worse
     
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  15. Rushingphil

    Rushingphil
    Z Club Member

    Yes, I was quite worried about what the underseal was hiding!
     
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  16. Rushingphil

    Rushingphil
    Z Club Member

    I mentioned on Wally's thread that my car was a 'little' top heavy on the rotisserie - however - once I got the car close to 90 deg. it was very heavy and was putting a lot of strain on the locking pins. The fact that I had left the windscreen and rear quarter windows in obviously wasn't helping so I took those out today :rolleyes: Made a hell of a difference, and I'm now comfortable to rotate the car past 90 deg and be able to get it back upright again!

    The windscreen came out very easily (cut the seal first) and I didn't even break it! Just typical - I don't intend to re-use it. No doubt if I had, I would have broken it!

    Was again pleased to see the condition of the metalwork beneath the seals - only a tiny amount of surface rust to address.

    Then got on with more scraping :)

    20200505_184443.jpg 20200505_184424.jpg 20200505_184543.jpg 20200505_184651.jpg 20200505_184805.jpg 20200505_185955.jpg 20200505_190051.jpg 20200505_140651.jpg 20200505_184127.jpg IMG-20200503-WA0000.jpeg
     
    toopy, richiep and tyroguru like this.
  17. uk66fastback

    uk66fastback
    Z Club Member

    Good work Phil. The shell is always better with nothing on it at all. A screen is weight above the centreline and you don’t need that. I would cut just a bit of the sound deadener out as already said, certainly not all of it.

    If you’re reusing the vinyl, be sure to cover from sparks etc when welding up. Project is coming along well already ... looking forward to more pics. The floor on mine was holed under the sound deadener, condensation probably, but I fabricated some exact shape panels (they weren’t very big, 4-5” square) and butt welded them in and ground flat so they look like the original floor. Then restuck the deadener down ...
     
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  18. IbanezDan51

    IbanezDan51
    Z Club Member

    I’d take all the sound deadening off of the floor. Damp gets under it, address it’s while you can. It’s easy to take off... I heated it up from the underside and peeled it off. Does however leave residue which took me awhile to get off.
     
    Rushingphil likes this.
  19. Wally

    Wally
    Z Club Member

    I found carb cleaner litteraly dissolved all the residue and wiped off really quickly. Left a really nice finish.
     
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  20. Rushingphil

    Rushingphil
    Z Club Member

    I mentioned previously that my vacuum blaster ideally needs 18cfm to work efficiently, but that my 10cfm compressor was coping - albeit very slowly.

    Fact is, it just got too slow and became a pain in the arse. Fact that I was using the wrong type of media didn't help :banghead: . I was using a 'disposable' media rather that 're-usable'. With that in mind, and with a lot of blasting still ahead of me, I've 'invested' in a bigger compressor and even spent some time building a decent hard-line system with proper drain valves on each of the drop lines :)

    Still need to do a bit more scraping first, but looking forward to using it in anger.....

    FIAC Compressor and pipework.jpg
     
    RyanT, peter_s, IbanezDan51 and 4 others like this.

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