A tale of two Zed Cars....

Robert Campbell

Club Member
Then came the moment of truth, which was putting the old chassis into the new dash cover. My top tip before you start is to mark the screw holes first, so they are easier to locate through the holes in chassis. I didn’t do that and said some very bad words....1B16B2FA-961D-4515-8C65-2038D5F399B8.jpeg6C7E1DE3-FF4C-4CF1-A586-E3DAA31ED1B3.jpegAA7A5A50-2858-4570-99A1-29CFA56F08D3.jpeg
 

Robert Campbell

Club Member
By this stage I’d got a lot more done than I hoped to do, but I was tapped out. I’m disabled and it was time to go home. The heater control panel and fuse cover im going to attempt to salvage as replacement are very expensive.F71152CA-B702-41FA-A5BA-6FED857C1320.jpeg3194E0F5-CEBF-455E-A729-96E94E771B03.jpeg
 

uk66fastback

Club Member
Great work. Restorations are all in the detail for me. So many cars, while good, fall just short of what they could be because owners can't be bothered to spend time doing the fiddly bits. Yours won't be one of them.
I think you can get new stickers for the wording on the above panel but you're going to need one of those chrome pens they sell on amazon for those edges ...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Molotow-Li...ocphy=1006984&hvtargid=pla-395972325597&psc=1https://www.amazon.co.uk/Molotow-Li...ocphy=1006984&hvtargid=pla-395972325597&psc=1
 

Robert Campbell

Club Member
Great work. Restorations are all in the detail for me. So many cars, while good, fall just short of what they could be because owners can't be bothered to spend time doing the fiddly bits. Yours won't be one of them.
I think you can get new stickers for the wording on the above panel but you're going to need one of those chrome pens they sell on amazon for those edges ...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Molotow-Li...ocphy=1006984&hvtargid=pla-395972325597&psc=1https://www.amazon.co.uk/Molotow-Li...ocphy=1006984&hvtargid=pla-395972325597&psc=1

thanks. This one will be for sale as a complete restoration so I can’t cut any corners, but I wouldn’t anyway.
 

Robert Campbell

Club Member
3D4ABFD3-4120-4F77-B0EE-CA4E2F8B8D8B.jpeg 4FA80F21-AFEF-488C-9CFD-A1BF74864E16.jpeg E178230A-E6B2-46A3-9C1B-52926B3CF3B8.jpeg

After a bit more swearing I got the dash cover more squarely settled into the chassis. Once that was done, I put the clocks and wiring loom back in place.

Again, this can be tricky and it would probably be easier with two people.
 

Robert Campbell

Club Member
32C7E641-3155-4DF1-BE4C-5B36EE5BD12D.jpeg37C4FC85-1C3A-4866-B69D-7BBFB4D46F22.jpegA31701CC-44FB-4F01-A033-F217A6A67D51.jpeg1BE6A001-1EA5-4F4F-AB83-1947EB4D6FAB.jpeg
The steering wheel was also in bad condition so took it home and ground off the bad black paint.

I spoke to my paint guy about whether to paint the spokes first, then varnish the rim, but he had a better idea. He suggested that I send down the rim to how I like it, then stain it if necessary, then once he’s done the spokes, he’ll cover it all with clear coat.

Does anyone know if the rim is real wood?
 

Mr Tenno

Digital Officer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Does anyone know if the rim is real wood?

It's some kind of wood and resin composite:

They were actually made from real wood.

The manufacturer ( 'Izumi' ) pioneered a wood composite process whereby real wood fibre plus wood dust was mixed with a two part resin, then compressed into a mould and heat hardened. Skilled finishing completed the process.

So it's true. They really are wood.
 

uk66fastback

Club Member
It isn't. It is a resin and wood mix I think. I wouldn't stain it, I would clean it up as best you can for grease, muck etc and then would just clearcoat it.

I did just that with mine recently. Three coats of handpainted but thinned satin lacquer varnish. Don't put too much on. Just left to dry out of the sun.

BEFORE

iuzfsQor.jpg


AFTER

8cP8vAzb.jpg
 

Robert Campbell

Club Member
Screenshot 2021-08-14 at 20.14.17.png

Right, well after a year of bugger all, and my wife having another baby, Im starting to plan the 280Z restomod. Having thought about it, Im thinking of doing an engine swap from the L26ET currently installed, to a Nissan 350 V6 and six speed gearbox.

Does anyone have any other suggestions, or is the L26ET tunable to get more power?
 

Mark N

Club Member
For stock, I have seen both 180bhp and 197bhp quoted so I'm guessing it is market dependent.
Yes, they are tunable with many running over 400hp.

For that you will probably need:
Bigger injectors.
Fuel rail and FPR.
Fuel pump.
Bigger turbo.
Stand alone ECU and boost control.
MLS head gasket and ARP head studs.
To make the best of the above, you should think about upgrading the ignition to have it controlled by the ECU (e.g. COP).

Do a Google search for "tuning L28ET" and you should get plenty info.
 

SacCyclone

Club Member
I have the T3 suspension under my 71 Zed for many years including track days, never let me down.
T3 is just down the road from me and Gabriel is a pleasure to deal with.
Mike
 
As Im going full restoration of everything, ive been recommended three companies for suspension parts, all of which are in the US:

https://www.apexengineered.com/s30---240z--260z--280z.html

https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z

https://www.silverminemotors.com/

Has anyone any first hand experience with these guys?

Does anyone know of any others in the marketplace?

Does anyone know of any others in Europe?


https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/the-suspension-thread.22177/page-3

https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/part-suppliers.25046/page-2
 

Robert Campbell

Club Member
Sorry to ask another bone question, but my 280 was engine swapped with a L28ET engine and a previous owner has swapped out the clock for a fuel/air gauge and on the A Pillar they mounted a Boost gauge.

Other than being turbo related, I was never sure what these gauges were telling me. Is the information they display important?

Do I even need these gauges?
 
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