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280zx distributor
- Thread starter mrzed
- Start date
But you already said you've got good 12v at the coil and that's also supplying the distributor - high resistance at the tacho would give you less than 12v at the coil and distributor.
maybe worth checking the teeth on the reluctor. It should look like this:
Courtesy of: https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/2636-how-to-set-air-gap-on-280zx-dizzy/
Courtesy of: https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/2636-how-to-set-air-gap-on-280zx-dizzy/
johnymd
Club Member
I’m only using a simple led tester to check for voltage. 12v at coil + and - before turning over. When cranking the -ve is switched on and off to earth which may cause the +ve voltage to drop if there’s a high resistance in the supply wire. I think.
Dizzy works fine on my other zed so I think I’ve ruled the dizzy out and need to look elsewhere.
Dizzy works fine on my other zed so I think I’ve ruled the dizzy out and need to look elsewhere.
Farmer42
Club Member
So, you should have the b/w lead going through the Tach to the +ve on the coil and that should be joined to the g/w. The problem is that there are 2 b/w leads near the coil so you need the right one connected to the coil which should be the one that gives 12v when the ignition switch is in the run position. the other is connected to the g/w and only comes into play on start. A lead then goes from +ve coil to terminal B on the module. The lead from the -ve on the coil goes to terminal C on the module.
It might be worth by-passing the ignition and tach and run a lead directly from the battery to the +ve on the coil. You should then have a consistent voltage to the coil to test it. If it fires, you have an issue with the wiring from the ignition switch via the Tach and it could be a short somewhere. If it doesn't fire and you have 12v at the +ve on the coil, then it is the LT leads from coil to dizzy module.
It might be worth by-passing the ignition and tach and run a lead directly from the battery to the +ve on the coil. You should then have a consistent voltage to the coil to test it. If it fires, you have an issue with the wiring from the ignition switch via the Tach and it could be a short somewhere. If it doesn't fire and you have 12v at the +ve on the coil, then it is the LT leads from coil to dizzy module.
Farmer42
Club Member
This is wher you will find the wiring diagram for a 280ZX dizzy on a S30.
http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html
http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html
johnymd
Club Member
Great write up and explains how the factory wiring should be after a 280zx dizzy swap. This car is re-wired as in all my builds with an EZ-Wiring loom. A pink wire marked “coil” comes from the ignition switch and goes through the coil fuse, through the dash tachometer loop and then straight to the coil +ve then linked across to dizzy ignition module B (battery) terminal.
Connecting a wire straight from battery +ve to coil +ve/B terminal is a great idea and will be my next test option. Thanks.
Connecting a wire straight from battery +ve to coil +ve/B terminal is a great idea and will be my next test option. Thanks.
Farmer42
Club Member
You need wires from both positions on the ignition switch shown on the diagram in the link. When you switch to start it switches the power from run to start position so if you don't have power connected to feed the coil from the start position you lose LT power. That is why the g/w and b/w wires are connected if you lose the ballast. If your pink wire is only on run position when you go to start you switch off the power to the coil and therefore no spark on cranking. A constant feed from the battery may highlight that.
Guys I mentioned this in another Thread - the coil wiring is excessively long especially if you are not running a ballast resistor.
On the diag attached when the car is running the ign feed to the coil goes from the ign switch to the ballast (under the coil) , through the ballast, back to a connection almost at the ignition switch again and then back to the coil. 3 LENGTHS OF THE ENGINE BAY AND 3 LENGTHS ACROSS THE FRONT OF THE CAR AND UP TO THE COIL AREA.
If you don't run a ballast the wires are just joined at the ballast BUT NO SAVING IN LENGTH.
On my 240 (280ZX Dizzy) I have run my ignition feed (single wire) to the coil from the ignition switch (B/W and G/W joined) through the tacho and down the LHS of the car to the coil.
Something to consider - why is the ballast under the coil, after all it's NOT connected directly to it? Unnecessary length of wiring - it could be on the bulkhead.
On the diag attached when the car is running the ign feed to the coil goes from the ign switch to the ballast (under the coil) , through the ballast, back to a connection almost at the ignition switch again and then back to the coil. 3 LENGTHS OF THE ENGINE BAY AND 3 LENGTHS ACROSS THE FRONT OF THE CAR AND UP TO THE COIL AREA.
If you don't run a ballast the wires are just joined at the ballast BUT NO SAVING IN LENGTH.
On my 240 (280ZX Dizzy) I have run my ignition feed (single wire) to the coil from the ignition switch (B/W and G/W joined) through the tacho and down the LHS of the car to the coil.
Something to consider - why is the ballast under the coil, after all it's NOT connected directly to it? Unnecessary length of wiring - it could be on the bulkhead.
