280z where can I find lights and wipers stalk?

[Alfonso Calabia aibar]

Hi all,
The light switch in the stalk is fully broken. I have opened it and the housing for the follower pins is broken, so the pins can't stay in place and the switch selection is not done. I believe this is a common issue since that part seems a bit weak...
Could you please help me to find a replacement either original or an upgrade? Or does anyone know who could refurbish this? I could also do with the refurbishment of the indicators stalk...
I just don't want to order one from US.

Many thanks in advance.
Alfonso

 

[Mr Tenno]

The 280z was only sold in the US so you may have trouble finding parts to replace them over here - maybe post some pictures, if it's inside the housing, it might be repairable with strong ahesive or maybe someone can 3D print something.

 

[Rob Gaskin]

Yes show us the stalk and the bit that's broken.

 

[Alfonso Calabia aibar]

The highlighted area in the picture is the housing for the spring operated actuators. It should have some extra bits sticking out from the hole to maintain the actuators inside the holes (or followers, I don't know how to call them...). So when the switch is in one of the extreme positions, the actuators jump out. I tried by drilling longer holes and creating longer actuators so they stay within the holes, but they still jump out... I also tried with a shroud sticking out of the hole, but it doesn't work either...
So I would like to either find a way for the actuators to stay in the hole, or if anyone has a suggestion to replace the whole switch with a modern one, but keeping the stalk itself.

Thanks!
Alfonso

 

[Huw]

I dunno if this would fit. Bit pricy

Datsun Nissan 260z 280z 74 75 76 light switch wiper washer switch

 

[Rob Gaskin]

I dunno if this would fit. Bit pricy

Datsun Nissan 260z 280z 74 75 76 light switch wiper washer switch

Alfonso - does your switch look like this one?

 

[julian]

Hi I might have a spare one.do you still need !

 

[Alfonso Calabia aibar]

Alfonso - does your switch look like this one?

Yes, but buying a second hand one, for $150, knowing that it may fail in a year or two because it is a common issue, doesn't make sense...

 

[AliK]

Yes, but buying a second hand one, for $150, knowing that it may fail in a year or two because it is a common issue, doesn't make sense...

That’s why the rear of us bought one with gritted teeth and promptly relay up the headlights to avoid future failures! it’s the only way.

 

[Rob Gaskin]

Yes, but buying a second hand one, for $150, knowing that it may fail in a year or two because it is a common issue, doesn't make sense...

I wasn't suggesting you bought it I wanted to know if a 280Z switch looked like that. Don't buy that one because there will be people here with spares. Looks like Julian has one.

 

[Alfonso Calabia aibar]

That’s why the rear of us bought one with gritted teeth and promptly relay up the headlights to avoid future failures! it’s the only way.

That's what I was thinking last night... I guess a standard 30A relay with a 15A fuse connected in the the steering column area will do?

 

[Alfonso Calabia aibar]

I wasn't suggesting you bought it I wanted to know if a 280Z switch looked like that. Don't buy that one because there will be people here with spares. Looks like Julian has one.

I had a chat with Julian and I may get one from him... I just feel so bad thinking that a whole piece becomes useless just because a tiny bit of plastic has broken... maybe I keep trying to engineer a repair and post it here for future references. I already checked rotary 3 position switches which I could make the swap at the stalk itself, but with the COVID thing I can't just go to a shop and choose a switch.

 

[AliK]

That's what I was thinking last night... I guess a standard 30A relay with a 15A fuse connected in the the steering column area will do?

Yes sir. I hate the kits that put the relays in the engine bay - without a proper sealed and dampened box (as you have in modern cars), you end up with vibration fatigue, dirt, corrosion and eventual unreliability. IMHO of course.

The best place for them I feel is by the blower motor under the dash on the passenger side.

The kits also take the trigger signal from one side of the lighting connector loom under the bonnet. IMHO again, if you take it from just below the switch / steering column, you have instantly relayed all the lights including tail, dash etc lights too.

Finally, the wiring in the car has two circuits / fuses for each side of headlights. This is so that if one side blows you don’t lose both headlights. With the kits you will lose both sides at the same time. My recommendation would be to use two fused relays, taking an input signal from the stalk and power directly from the battery (fused at the battery of course) and run fresh new wiring directly to the headlights, by passing 40+ year old wiring.

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/make...tacts-12-volt-30-amp-integral-blade-fuse.html


AES have everything you need at reasonable prices:


https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/1010/category/7

Finally, slightly controversial for some, I have replaced my headlight bulbs with LED ones and will never go back to halogen. They use 1/3 of the current reducing load on the alternator, fit the normal headlight housing and lenses and I see EVERYTHING at night. I would also say I have a much better light than out of my Q5 with halogen H7s.

Sure they look whiter than classic headlights “should” look, but I’m into safety and function over style ; being able to see the road ahead for me is worth a lot

 

[MaximG]

Don't drive in the dark if your that bothered.

 

[Bazzateer]

Finally, slightly controversial for some, I have replaced my headlight bulbs with LED ones and will never go back to halogen. They use 1/3 of the current reducing load on the alternator, fit the normal headlight housing and lenses and I see EVERYTHING at night. I would also say I have a much better light than out of my Q5 with halogen H7s.

Ali, do you mind telling me which lights you have?

 

[Paul_S]

My car had H4 halogens when I got it and no relays - when I inspected the light switch gear the extra current was clearly not good for it. I was going to rewire with relays but opted for LEDs in the end.

I bought the P43t bulbs from here --> http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/led-headlamp-bulbs-shop.php

They aren't cheap, but by the time you take the cost of relays, wires, time, etc. into the equation the don't work out so bad. And boy are they bright!!

 

[Bazzateer]

My car had H4 halogens when I got it and no relays - when I inspected the light switch gear the extra current was clearly not good for it. I was going to rewire with relays but opted for LEDs in the end.

I bought the P43t bulbs from here --> http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/led-headlamp-bulbs-shop.php

They aren't cheap, but by the time you take the cost of relays, wires, time, etc. into the equation the don't work out so bad. And boy are they bright!!

Cheers Paul.

 

[Paul_S]

Cheers Paul.

No problem.

I should have added, the reason I bought these over others was because they are a very easy plug and play. They are the same size (or as near as) to standard halogens and fit with no issues or external cables or adapters.

Also, they don't have little cooling fans in them like some others do. I can't help thinking those fans will easily fail and cause the them to overheat and fail.

 

[AliK]

Mine are Vanssi branded 10G ones which I think are discontinued now. I was in two minds so didn’t want to spend huge money and ordered via AliExpress @£35 a set. I now wish I had bought two sets

Here is what they have now ...

Mine didn’t have the heat sink fan but what I have read says they last better with a fan. Also mine didn’t have the “driver” box - which is basically a PSU with a fan controller.

The Philips H4 LED comes very highly recommended but you are looking at over £100 a set.


Philips automotive lighting 12901HPX2 X-tremeUltinon LED car Headlight Bulb (H4), 6.500K, Set of 2 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0759RTSWT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z1pUEbT3BBBWY

I’m not sure any aftermarket LED headlights are European TUV approved but UK law has a grey area that allows for them. I can’t recall the full details / wording of the UK part but the European part requires self levelling mechanisms and headlight washers. It’s very much based on HID rules. What I have found is that if the lights are properly adjusted and you’re not exceeding 6500lm a pair (ie half that per bulb for high beam) then you don’t cause dazzle. Something I have tested with someone else. I did declare it to my insurance company and there wasn’t an issue from their side. I think a lot of classic cars are having LED conversions.

One more thing to bear in mind is the orientation of LED bulbs has to be different. I know this as I put them in the same as halogens and lost my beam patterns. Halogens go up/down, LEDs go left / right. My LED ones had a twisting lamp part so dead easy to get it right once I discovered my error.

Putting them in proper way round I discovered my previously (with halogens) vague patterns became very well defined!!

 

[Bazzateer]

All good info, will look into this. I do have a pair somewhere in the garage bought for another project so will have to dig those out and see if they'll work.