280z project

Albrecht

Well-Known Forum User
I am looking for parts right now to replace the fuel lines (hard/soft).

With luck, you should not need to replace the (fuel) hard lines. As long as they are clear, and not obviously corroded anything more than surface rust on the outside, they *should* be OK.

I saw online quite a few were using AN lines (not sure what those stand for, but they are a better upgrade from the regular hoses in the engine bay, right?).

AN (A/N) stands for Army/Navy, and was the standards system applied to military plumbing in the United States in the early 1940s. A/N sizes are 'dash' sizes which are written '-4', '-8' etc. The common aftermarket suppliers are companies like Earl's and Goodridge.

BUT, you don't need to go to that system or standard for your fuel supply. Just choose modern soft hoses that are rated to work with current fuel additives and are compatible with your choice of Injection (high pressure) or carburettors (low pressure).

About the Precision branded weatherstrip kits: I've had some experience of their windscreen and tailgate rubbers and they were a bit hit and miss (I ended up using a Vintage Rubber branded seal for my last tailgate glass installation). And to be honest, I'd forget about taking glass out until you are a good way up the road with this car anyway. The main thing you want/need will be door seals and the tailgate seals, and the Precision door seals have a reputation of being too 'fat', stopping the doors from closing properly. You would be well advised to go with the generic door seal sold by the metre from the likes of East Kent Trim Supplies.

Try to avoid on-spec buying of stuff you don't need or won't use (yet).

Could you please point me in the direction of that area? Do you mean the oil plug?

It's on the actual engine block, near the rear of the engine on the inlet/exhaust side. Big red arrow here:

Block drain.jpg
 

SeanDezart

Well-Known Forum User
I'm not expert by any means - just going by what I've been told and what I've read on here. And the fact @BenjEtch's 280z's EFI failed recently :)

I guess if its all in good nic and well maintained, or you can be bothered to spend a lot of time/money tracking down the faults and fixing them, then it can be reliable. But the lure of just ripping it all out and buying shiny new triple carbs is strong isn't it Ben :)
I suppose it's like the rear brakes - if they're all tat - the idea is there to replace with discs....they won't help with performance either but work and look nice. :cool:
 

Herc34es

Club Member
BUT, you don't need to go to that system or standard for your fuel supply. Just choose modern soft hoses that are rated to work with current fuel additives and are compatible with your choice of Injection (high pressure) or carburettors (low pressure).
Thank you so much for the info!!! Any hoses should be fine (just cut/trim on same size?): https://www.thehosemaster.co.uk/hose-ducting/fuel-hose

I would need to replace the injectors (cause they looked bad) and the injector rail is a bit broken/rusty (will take pics) but it does not feel solid anymore. I looked at the spark plugs and looked fine but still, a replacement would be necessary. I will be checking tomorrow the engine area you mentioned.

I found those three options for a replacement of the rail:
https://protunerz.com/products/datsun-l-series-fuel-rail (not sure which options apply though 11'' / 14'' / barb?)


 

Herc34es

Club Member
Those are the results after removing the carpet:

I can't get the driver's seat out. The front bolt was easy but can't push it forward enough to do the rear bolts.
I can't get the screws out (they are too rusted out) from the back wooden cover. I looked at the spare tyre area, and it looks ok, but it has rust on the fixings that hold that wooden part, and can't get them out.

Next, I will be removing the door panels and all vinyl covers.
After that the dash!!!
 

Robotsan

Club Member
Those are the results after removing the carpet:

I can't get the driver's seat out. The front bolt was easy but can't push it forward enough to do the rear bolts.
I can't get the screws out (they are too rusted out) from the back wooden cover. I looked at the spare tyre area, and it looks ok, but it has rust on the fixings that hold that wooden part, and can't get them out.

Next, I will be removing the door panels and all vinyl covers.
After that the dash!!!

Floors don't look too bad, just surface rust?

Wire wheel it all & rust treat it then paint and it should be fine :)

Weird that you can't reach the seat bolts. Not even with a ratchet? Is anything stopping the front seat sliding all the way forward? Are the front bolts totally removed? I made that error with my Mini the other day..

I guess you'll have to drill those rusted screws out.
 

yellowz

Club Member
Work the seat backwards and forwards to see if you can get any movement further forward. I have taken the passenger seat out of my 280 and I used a ratchet to do it. You should be able to to see the rear bolt, there is enough travel on the runner.
 

Herc34es

Club Member
Had to take a week break for work deadlines.

I removed door panels and happy to see no rust on the doors. I just need to remove the vinyl trim, but I do not have a specific tool for this. I will remove seatbelts tomorrow as well (I did remove the bolts, but the assembly didn't come off). I still can't get the seat out.

I started wire brushing the floors. I removed a lot of surface rust with a drill+wire brush, and there was a spot that confused me a little bit.
WhatsApp Image 2022-08-06 at 6.53.30 PM.jpeg

I started taking out the dash but stopped due to tiredness. I wanted to get the engine running, but I think I should treat the rust first right?
 

Herc34es

Club Member
IMG_20220823_125613.jpgi have put fertan, and after 40 hours i wheel brush for quite a while and thus is the result. Should i keep going? I cant see any more coming out.
 

Herc34es

Club Member
Reading on the manual, the recommended oil is 10W-30 or 10W-40. Is this a good option: https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/trip...CLCzq_3dB3xOOp5s9P0AnGk1Grki_JUUaAnYpEALw_wcB

Now the Gear oil is 80W? I saw in the manual it was saying dexron only: is it this ones: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-771-dexron-iii-atf.aspx ? Any suggestions is welcome. This weekend I will be going over maintenance on the engine with changing the Injectors, o-rings, fuel-rail, regulator. I will clean the engine cover as well as the hoses! Also will be checking the area @Albrecht showed me.
 

Attachments

  • OILTRANS.PNG
    OILTRANS.PNG
    381.6 KB · Views: 3

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
Reading on the manual, the recommended oil is 10W-30 or 10W-40. Is this a good option: https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/trip...CLCzq_3dB3xOOp5s9P0AnGk1Grki_JUUaAnYpEALw_wcB

Now the Gear oil is 80W? I saw in the manual it was saying dexron only: is it this ones: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-771-dexron-iii-atf.aspx ? Any suggestions is welcome. This weekend I will be going over maintenance on the engine with changing the Injectors, o-rings, fuel-rail, regulator. I will clean the engine cover as well as the hoses! Also will be checking the area @Albrecht showed me.
you need engine oil with a good amount of ZDDP ideally.
auto gearbox?
 

Herc34es

Club Member
I am trying to get a better understanding of the engine:
This is my brake cylinder. I am not sure if those are cleanable. Is there an upgrade for this part?

WhatsApp Image 2022-09-06 at 11.41.32 (4).jpegWhatsApp Image 2022-09-06 at 11.41.33.jpeg

I want to get a better understanding of the engine components: To be honest I can't identify the return fuel lines.
WhatsApp Image 2022-09-06 at 11.41.33 (5).jpeg

Now here is the engine block with the spaghetti-mess. I got this from protunerz to upgrade the fuel rail:
WhatsApp Image 2022-09-06 at 11.41.32 (1).jpegWhatsApp Image 2022-09-06 at 11.42.40.jpeg
The stock FPR can work with the new rail or those types? Any tips on where to fit?

I want to take out the valve cover to clean it (got brake cleaner and steel wool and will get a polisher as well). I have also gotten a new gasket. When I open it, I should replace the old one right (that's the obvious thing I think). I will cover the open space with a bag, but I assume I have to be as fast as possible right with the engine open?

I should take out the intakes and so on right (clean/polish)?
 

Attachments

  • WhatsApp Image 2022-09-06 at 11.41.32 (2).jpeg
    WhatsApp Image 2022-09-06 at 11.41.32 (2).jpeg
    321 KB · Views: 8
  • WhatsApp Image 2022-09-06 at 11.41.32 (2).jpeg
    WhatsApp Image 2022-09-06 at 11.41.32 (2).jpeg
    212.1 KB · Views: 5
  • WhatsApp Image 2022-09-06 at 11.41.33 (5).jpeg
    WhatsApp Image 2022-09-06 at 11.41.33 (5).jpeg
    145.3 KB · Views: 6

Herc34es

Club Member
I was looking as well some builds online, and I noticed that they had the BPT valves and the EGR valves removed (at least I couldn't see them in their engine displays). Is that ok? or they are replaced with something else? Thank you!!!
 

Robotsan

Club Member
I was looking as well some builds online, and I noticed that they had the BPT valves and the EGR valves removed (at least I couldn't see them in their engine displays). Is that ok? or they are replaced with something else? Thank you!!!

Yeah from what I gather all the emissions / EGR stuff can be removed and blanked off. Doesn't gain you anything other than a prettier engine bay from what I gather though, so I'd spend the time on getting the car running first :)
 
Top