280z project

[Robotsan]

I thought the engine breathed more easily without the emissions gear on it?

As you know Jim, I'm not expert! But others have advised me it doesn't really gain anything - https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/sunbaked-76-cali-280z.29585/post-342179

 

[toopy]

Top/upper hose is for the heater matrix feed from the block, the lower one is the return and the other end should feed into the block where the bottom radiator hose is connected. No idea what that other tube/pipe is.

The Brake master cylinder reservoirs can be removed and cleaned out, once you loosen the clamps they should pull out without to much effort. They are not under pressure in use so don't have to be a tight fit. The caps can be cleaned up and painted or lots of people get them re-plated.
You can buy new if required though.

 

[yellowz]

Top/upper hose is for the heater matrix feed from the block, the lower one is the return and the other end should feed into the block where the bottom radiator hose is connected. No idea what that other tube/pipe is.

The Brake master cylinder reservoirs can be removed and cleaned out, once you loosen the clamps they should pull out without to much effort. They are not under pressure in use so don't have to be a tight fit. The caps can be cleaned up and painted or lots of people get them re-plated.
You can buy new if required though.

View attachment 53395

Other one is the transmission oil dipstick/top up tube. Where is the dipstick though (no jokes please...............)

 

[Herc34es]

Yeah from what I gather all the emissions / EGR stuff can be removed and blanked off. Doesn't gain you anything other than a prettier engine bay from what I gather though, so I'd spend the time on getting the car running first

Yeap! I have just gotten the injectors, rail, hoses, sparks, filters, starting rotor, and a few others. I am going to start on it, one step at a time. Just wasn't sure about some.

 

[Herc34es]

Other one is the transmission oil dipstick/top up tube. Where is the dipstick though (no jokes please...............)

hahaha it has long been gone I am sure. I will try to find something to block that hole.

 

[Robotsan]

Yeap! I have just gotten the injectors, rail, hoses, sparks, filters, starting rotor, and a few others. I am going to start on it, one step at a time. Just wasn't sure about some.

Nice one, lots of parts to fit then! Have you gone round all the connectors to check how they look? That's what sorted my 280 in the end, just cleaning up electrical connections.

You might have already said this, I can't remember, but does the engine turn over freely? You can do it by hand somehow I think?

Just as I know you said it was not started for something like 10 years. And I'm pretty sure there's a chance of things seizing and rusting even in the cylinders (in fact I saw it on a YouTube video today!), so maybe research how to recommission an engine that hasn't run in a long time or something?

 

[SacCyclone]

The large rubber lines into the firewall go to the heater core under the dash.

The metal tube looks like automatic trans dipstick.

 

[Herc34es]

Thank you for all the information!!!!!!!!!!!!
Progress today. Removed Fuel Rail + Valve cover. I will be attempting to polish it. Covered the open engine with bags for now to prevent dirt etc going in. Cover injector holes as well.

All those black areas (some are a bit red), that is the old oil, albeit a bit burned. Is there a way to clean it (is it ok to leave it like this)? Do I have to disassemble all of it, in order to do that?

In the last picture, you will see the lovely injectors. The spacers are kinda stuck and can't get them out, yet... I am planning to go barbarian with a hammer to persuade their exit.

 

[jonbills]

regular oil changes will slowly clean up the inside of the engine. Or you could run some forte engine flush through if you're in a hurry.

 

[Herc34es]

On the inside of the valve cover, i noticed this added part, it looks like it is a panel. Not sure what it is for. Some of the material seems to be coming of as well on the side (pic 2 and 3). There is a gap on the side. Can anyone ease explain this to me what it is for? Just to prevent oil reaching the top? Confused.... And thank you.

 

[Faster Behr]

Thats a diverter plate to keep the oil hanging around in the valve train area. The epoxy goes brittle due to age.

 

[Herc34es]

Ok gotcha. I will break the epoxy and put a new one, or i can... Weld that part...

 

[Herc34es]

After a very very long time (work, bad weather, sickness and Holidays) I am back at it. I have removed (with help) a lot, a lot of junk. Also, there were tons of nests (enough to warrant an invasion from Space Troopers). Wheels are nice...oxidised and could need a polish (future). They are 14inch wheels and look amazing. There is a weird-looking sludge... that is crystalised (removed water pump and water came out but so far looks ok, and the problem was in the hose).

GAS TANK IS GOOD. F yeah (so happy about that). Few tiny holes in the floor panels, but other than that pretty sexy bottom. AC is toast, I am getting rid of it (will replace it when I move to Greece with a modern one - any suggestions if anyone is using an aftermarket modern one are welcome).
The alternator and the fuel pump are toast. Replaced the Fuel-Pump. Regarding the alternator, I am lost. Is it external or internal? External I think from searches that I did. I am looking at these websites to source one: https://www.torqen.uk/search?contro...&search_query=280z+alternator+&submit_search= (the Reman alternator seems a direct fit).
or the REMY from here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...209248,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412

I am not planning to have any crazy electronics on the car: A/C (5-6 years into the future). LED headlights (I really got inspired by Johnymd who had a marvellous white car for sale a while ago with those headlights). So not many amps are needed, right? I do not care about the stereo that much as I will use a portable speaker for music and general audio. I can't think of anything electronic that might constitute a high amperage...right?

All sensors are toast as well. I have gotten help to get the engine running, BUT the guy suggests to me that we should not get the car running with EFI but put ITBs because the engine wire harness and all sensors on the manifold are for the garbage. The throttle body is in poor condition to trash, as well as the thermostat housing, is in no great status either.

Can anyone tell me what is that thing on the 3rd picture as I can't find it on the graphs of the service manual?

 

[jonbills]

I think many towns have alternator and starter specialists - you can take your old alternator in and they'll rebuild it. I've done this a couple of times. Or at least find another to match.
(these are the guys I go to: https://electrostart.co.uk/)

The unusual thing on pic 3 is a spider

 

[Herc34es]

The unusual thing on pic 3 is a spider

Pic 6. Hahaha messed the numbering.

 

[Mark N]

Picture 6 is the inlet water neck housing, where your lower radiator hose attaches to the engine.

 

[Faster Behr]

Firstly, good to see an update! Secondly - love the Starhip Troopers reference.

I have bought two alternators from Rock Auto. No complaints. The last one was an AC Delco 334-1649 which references to a 280ZX Turbo alternator (which worked on my car fine). I just checked and Rock Auto don't currently have this in their inventory, but Summit Racing do at here a reasonable price.

The crud you refer to is crystalised salts from coolant breaking down in the system. A good clean out and a flush should sort it. Maybe something acidic to assist...

I'm sure Neil (Fairlineguy) has done a few A/C retrofits with modern kit from T3 Design. He would be worth a shout for sure.

I think the picture you refer to is the coolant water inlet neck as has been intimated above - here. I suspect that when you remove the thermostat housing, it will also have a load of crud inside it where it ports through to the cylinder head. The radiator and water pump and anywhere else there is coolant may also be trouble spots.

 

[Herc34es]

Put some 3M Body Guard (after removing the old one...no rust, yay), took out the old brake callipers (did fit braided brake lines), Air-con, alternator, whole FI system (including throttle air thingy), air intake, and exhaust (manifold was broken), and the Cali bumpers. I feel like 50kilos just left the car.

Does anyone buy those bumpers? (I saw this: really?!) and I am thinking ... could I?

The gas tank will be going up soon as it is in a healthy condition.
Also, I found out that the car probably has genuinely 22000 miles. The starter motor, that is OE, on the inside looked clean and had minor to bare grinding, I am a noob so it could be wrong, but it is likely?!

BTW I f**ed up the head cover... I know... I KNOW.

After putting the tank back, would it be a good time to put the new control arms?

 

[Herc34es]

I further have gotten this thing out as it was smoking under the dash when putting in a new battery. Also it does not look in good condition. Thus I decided to change it.

I know I am looking at a relay set? (has the ignition switch/relay and a few others that are needed for FI?)

1. Are all those parts integral for a FI so that I can get rid of some?
2. Is there a replacement for it?