280 into 240 whats not needed

ozting

Well-Known Forum User
So can anyone help with the wheel nut issue, I found out that they are M12 x 1.25 thread but as to the style of nut required for these alloys I am still not certain? Would make sense if they were chamfered so they self locate the centre and so wheel as you tighten.
 

status

Well-Known Forum User
True rob but i didn't yhink we were talking about high performance engine,and yes every little help's,(sorry about the pun there) on a race engine but dont think you would notice an extra 4 bhp whilst trying to get past that reliant robin on the dual carriageway,as Ozting says he used his ears and it already runs better so bring on the colourtune ,and Oz ,keep an eye on yer nuts mate
 

Mr.F

Inactive
Wolfrace wheels need a Wolfrace nut - the washer is convex to the rear and has a chamfer to the outside. The nut is a shallow sleeve nut which helps support the centralisation of the wheel.
I have stock of appropriate nuts - just call!
01277 374201.
 

ozting

Well-Known Forum User
Thanks Mike I will give you a call this week see if you can help me out with the above ...
though its not for the Wolfrace wheels but some JDM Alloy split rims.
 

zedhed

Club Member
Hi Ozting, just nearing the end of a 2 year restoration. Sounds like I've got a similar setup to you i.e. a pair of 2" Jag carbs. I'm using BAR type needles which is what most folks seem to recommend. The previous needles were also BAR type but they had been filed flat (wheover did it didn't use a lathe like youre supposed to so they weren't round), and that damaged the jets, so I both the replaced needles and jets. I was just about to start tuning (or attempting anyway) when the starter died on me, so I'm sorting that out at the moment. Some folks seem to think this carb setup is a lot for a 2.8, but I think I've got a trick cam (will check this when I get a gasket) and according to the wisdom of the crowds it should run a little too rich at idle and low revs but should run best when the revs build up. Anyway, when I'm up and running I'll let you know how it works out. I can upload some pics of my setup if you like. Good luck! Nick
 

Leeski26

Club Member
Well I think I shall hijack this thread seeing as the car that ozting started the thread about is now my new toy:thumbs:. Only got the car on Saturday so am still finding my way around.
The car is in amazing shape structurally and the bodywork is in pretty good nick as well:p.
That's not to say its not without is problems, not running that well, lacking in power, having to feather the throttle to accelerate as it feels as if its going to stall if you just boot it, idle is all over the place when the choke is off, rev counter and water temp gauges are not registering anything and the sump gasket is leaking in one place just above the steering. So only minor niggles to sort so far:D, any advice or tips welcome before I start trying to sort things out:smash:.
Would be very interested to see some photos of your set up zedhead to compare and see if there are any differences that could be causing my idle and running problems.
 

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morbias

Well-Known Forum User
If it's not running well and your rev counter doesn't work then check to make sure the ignition coil and ballast resistor are wired correctly. Great looking car!
 

nospark

Well-Known Forum User
As you have an L reg car you can legally fit black number plates with aluminium coloured letters/numbers. Would look more retro imo
 

Leeski26

Club Member
I thought the car had to be '72 (before 1/1/73) to have black and silver plates, I do have a set in the garage that came with the car.

Thanks morbias, i'll look into that.
 

nospark

Well-Known Forum User
This is my understanding. The DVLA site states that vehicles manufactured before 1/1/73 can have black plates. You will see a lot of comments on various websites about the registration date of the vehicle. My car was registered in 1973 but was manufactured in 1972. It is commonly accepted (i think!) that cars took 6 months (?) to get to GB from the factory in Japan. Also when they arrived they sat in a showroom for a period of time
 

Leeski26

Club Member
6 months? as long as that? I am surprised, I was thinking 2 or 3 months at the most. Mine was first registered 26/3/73 so it may well have been built in '72.
 

nospark

Well-Known Forum User
There is (are) an extensive thread(s) on this website somewhere (do a search) that discusses the chassis numbers of cars that are tax exempt. It came up with an agreed definitive chassis number. As part of that tread, delivery times were discussed and factored in. It is almost certain that your car was manufactured in 1972
 
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