260z Wheel Tracking Specification

toopy

Club Member
Im hopefully getting my tracking checked this week, as well as having the front wheels re-balanced.

Ive had a search but cant find the info, i seem to remember 1 degree in total being mentioned at some point, is that correct or is it maybe 1 degree max each side?

I get some quite serious vibration through the steering wheel over 50 mph approx, if i cruise at 60 the vibration comes and go's over a period of about 30 seconds, 25 of vibration, and then 5 or so of virtually none!
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
Sounds like my car except mine doesn’t start until 70+ My current theory is front wheel bearings.
I think total toe in should be about 2mm.
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
Both of the above, ie the vibrations coming in waves, sound like an imbalance between each of the front wheels usually if one is newer than the other and is a slightly different dia or wear pattern. They often balance perfectly individually but won’t work as a pair. New tyres possibly the cure.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
I was told 2mm toe in as JB said and it cured my vibration woes!
 

Ian

Club Member
This is what I'm aiming for, this is with non standard suspension and 225 tyres, this would be a fast road setup and would be more aggressive than this if it was to be setup for track use.


Front

Camber: 1.5 - 2 neg
Caster: 3.5 - 4 positive (even on both sides) (Would go more but can't without rose jointed arms)
Toe: 1/16" out or 0


Rear

Camber: 1.25 to 1.5 neg (Total Max of 1.5)
Toe: 1/16" to 1/8" in
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
One more thought Mr T. I found previously I had a loose compression rod - the nut was still on but on the last couple of threads, so the rod could move / vibrate and change caster, tracking etc as I was driving.

Just have a check to make sure you don't also have that little gem too.
 

Albrecht

Well-Known Forum User
One more thought Mr T. I found previously I had a loose compression rod - the nut was still on but on the last couple of threads, so the rod could move / vibrate and change caster, tracking etc as I was driving.

Just have a check to make sure you don't also have that little gem too.

What data were you after for that? Compression Rod length affects Caster, which is in the factory chart I posted above.
 

toopy

Club Member
One more thought Mr T. I found previously I had a loose compression rod - the nut was still on but on the last couple of threads, so the rod could move / vibrate and change caster, tracking etc as I was driving.

Just have a check to make sure you don't also have that little gem too.

Indeed, i had that in mind already after your experience, and will be checking before i take it for the wheel alignment :thumbs:
 

toopy

Club Member
Interestingly, when i booked the car in and spoke to the mechanic, he said it definitely sounds like the tracking or some other suspension/steering issue.

If it was wheel balance related the vibration normally happens within a 10 mph range, so for example, vibration between 40 and 50 or 50 and 60 etc and then it disappears, if it constantly vibrates and if it also gets worse and then eases in a cycle, then it's a suspension/steering issue.
 

toopy

Club Member
So, went to get the tracking checked today but didnt quite get that far!

First wheel off was put on the balance machine and straight away you could see the tyre was a little oval, with degraded rubber visible at the worst point.
Otherwise the tyre looked to be in overall good condition, so wheel back on for now and now need to source some cheap but not budget tyres, to get me through until i fit the new bigger wheels, wheel studs and 16" tyres over the coming months.
If it wasnt for booking Donnington i wouldnt bother as these 14" replacement tyres will hardly be used bar this show, but a 300 mile round trip with harsh steering wheel vibration would be no fun whatsoever for me or the car!!
Half decent 205 60/14 tyres seem to be non existent these days, just cheapo rubbish, so will probably go 195 70/14 just to find something cheapish but reasonable as there is more choice at this size.
 
So, went to get the tracking checked today but didnt quite get that far!

First wheel off was put on the balance machine and straight away you could see the tyre was a little oval, with degraded rubber visible at the worst point.
Otherwise the tyre looked to be in overall good condition, so wheel back on for now and now need to source some cheap but not budget tyres, to get me through until i fit the new bigger wheels, wheel studs and 16" tyres over the coming months.
If it wasnt for booking Donnington i wouldnt bother as these 14" replacement tyres will hardly be used bar this show, but a 300 mile round trip with harsh steering wheel vibration would be no fun whatsoever for me or the car!!
Half decent 205 60/14 tyres seem to be non existent these days, just cheapo rubbish, so will probably go 195 70/14 just to find something cheapish but reasonable as there is more choice at this size.


vredestein sportrac 5

No need for 16" wheels :)
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
This is what I'm aiming for, this is with non standard suspension and 225 tyres, this would be a fast road setup and would be more aggressive than this if it was to be setup for track use.


Front

Camber: 1.5 - 2 neg
Caster: 3.5 - 4 positive (even on both sides) (Would go more but can't without rose jointed arms)
Toe: 1/16" out or 0


Rear

Camber: 1.25 to 1.5 neg (Total Max of 1.5)
Toe: 1/16" to 1/8" in


Ian, why toe-out on the front of a rear wheel drive car?

Isn't the aim to get 0' when the car is moving. Undriven wheels tend to go 'duck-footed' when pushed. Driven wheels tend to pull 'pigeon-toed'.
 
This is what I'm aiming for, this is with non standard suspension and 225 tyres, this would be a fast road setup and would be more aggressive than this if it was to be setup for track use.


Front

Camber: 1.5 - 2 neg
Caster: 3.5 - 4 positive (even on both sides) (Would go more but can't without rose jointed arms)
Toe: 1/16" out or 0


Rear

Camber: 1.25 to 1.5 neg (Total Max of 1.5)
Toe: 1/16" to 1/8" in

What is that based on? What s30 setup?
 
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