260z Restoration - Let's get started

woody

Club Member
Looks like you guys have o lot of work in front of you, when I do projects like these after stripping them down I have the shell sand blasted, I know it can hurt the pocket but it does get rid of all the bad stuff and there`s always ten times more work than you thought, looking forward to watching your progress though, maybe able to help with some of the tricky panels ( under dash ) pm me when your at that point, keep them pictures comeing
 

SacCyclone

Club Member
Hi Andy,

good to see that you are now on your way to getting your Zed back on the road.

Your roof is in my shop safe and sound.

The shell that i listed on this forum has sold to Johnymd so you might check with him on getting your parts across the pond. We still have a few weeks before that happens as I am waiting for title.

As I said before, get a price on all the parts you need and lets look at the total price and availability. May be better off with a complete roller, not sure.

I will keep watching your thread.
 

Huw

Club Member
Look forward to following your thread, looks like a lot of work ahead. But its good work!. Interesting set up in your Landie doesn't look standard, what are you running?
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
Woody, thanks for the note. The strengthening panel that sits inside the scuttle is knackered. I've made a new one but it's a complex shape and difficult to fab so that it lies flush on the bulkhead. I was going to pull it tight with clecos then weld. The 2nd prob is getting this panel through the scuttle top as it's bigger than the gap a available! May have to work in 2 sections. I'll PM you...
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
Mike, Thanks for the roof update. I'll get in touch with Johnymd. I hope it doesn't come down to buying a rolling shell, I'm out of space.
Won't be long before I know the full horror story now tho! I'll be in touch via PM, I can already think of a few bits.
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
Huw, It's a 1949 with a Perkins turbo diesel, (almost a Rover engine). I've wound the pump up so it flies along. Externally it's absolutely standard, but all tweaked underneath, brakes, diff ratios, gearbox. TBH I should have rebuilt and put the original 1600 back in, but the plan was to have a landy that would keep with the pace on modern roads.
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
Just dropped the shell, panels and most of the big metal bits off at the blast shop tonight. Panels will be blasted with plastic bead which creates minimal heat, so should create no distortion. Rest of car will also be treated to plastic bead followed by a more aggressive media as required for rust.
I'm keen to see what I get back, but he told me to bring my bucket and shovel!

I made a replacement section of bulkhead last week to replace a section that had completely rotted through. I've attached a pic of progress on this, it suits not to weld this in until after blasting as it helps with access.
 

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candy red

Club Member
Nice fabrication there well done :bow: will look forward to pic of when it comes back keep us posted and good luck I to took a bucket and shovel to pick mine up from blasters should have took a hover to pick all of the Z up :lol:

Derrick;)
 

s2k_adz

Club Member
Mines pretty much the same will tackle it later :(

IMG_8911_zpsrbjdsv1t.jpg

Mine went exactly here!

Be careful when you're repairing that the bracket supporting the steering column doesn't move :)
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
Thanks for the advice. I've made a jig as I had to drop one of the brackets off to gain access, I was concerned that things would move. The strengthening plates are made but not welded in yet so I can gain the full benefit of the shot blast.
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
Well it seems to have taken an age but I've finally started to get some car parts back from the blast shop and should get the main bodyshell back in a week or so. The car has been plastic granule blasted where good and a more aggressive media used where corrosion and damage exist. A 2-pack primer has been applied to the bare metal. The plastic is a sensitive media that creates minimal heat build up.

Not too many nasty surprises so far, from the experience of others I had expected the worst and there was a lot of filler in some areas. The front wings have cleaned up quite well with minor damage to both in the lower rear corners, an easyish repair. The scuttle panels (I had 2) have cleaned up with minor perforations to both in the same place.

One door is good, but the l/hand (passenger) door has suffered damage and poor repair at some stage, ideally this needs replaced - Can anyone help here?

I'll get the bodyshell back soon, and am expecting a lot of time spent repairing round the rear lights and also to the front inner wings.
 

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uk66fastback

Club Member
That doesn't look too bad (apart from that door, which is a shame). It is recoverable obviously bt a lot of work. That bottom wing I think looks pretty good, what is there I am sure you will be able to make good relatively easily. Floors okay?
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
Floors already partially cut out, I've new floors and rear wings on the to-do list. Better than random patches I reckon.
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
I got started on one of the front wings today, totally cutout out the old rubbish and replaced both the inner frame pieces and the outer damaged area. Attached pics show the finished wing with a quick etch prime coat, I'll save final finishing for later.
I've decided to replace the badly damaged door from my previous post, so much to cut out and replace it didn't seem worthwhile.
 

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Turn & Burn

Club Member
Whilst waiting for bits of bodywork to come back from blasting I've been playing around with a front brake conversion, but using Niissan calipers as opposed to the usual Hilux conversion. I got some Z32 calipers off ebay for a song as they were wrongly advertised! The caliper mounts are different ctrs but as I want to run a larger vented disc this allows space to fit a neat spacer/mount bracket that gets everything into the right place.
There's a real shortage of 4 bolt discs without going down the custom route so I've re-drilled a 5 bolt flange rotor to suit the 4 bolt pcd. The disc is off a Honda CR-V, the larger 293mm disc limits wheel size to 15" (possibly) and above, but I intend to run 16" so shouldn't be a problem.
No original parts machined so easily converted back to normal.

I've attached a few pics of progress. The prototype bracket pictured is just made from plastic fascia board to enable me to get the rough shape. The assy is shown inside a 17" rim as that's all I had available to try I've done a neat CAD design for the real thing and will get it milled when I get bored of cutting rust out!
 

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Jon_Flynn

Club Member
Looking really good. Interested how you get on with the brake conversion but looks smashing


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