260Z Project - 260Z GT-R

Ian

Club Member
I can't do this on an individual basis unfortunately but if you let me know what you want to change I can do it for you.
Most of the photos are ok, its just in some cases I copied the link from another forum and they don't always seem to load in those cases. I need to access the post in these cases and make a direct link to photobucket for each image. Would take a bit of time.
 

Ian

Club Member
I'm looking into a drysump setup because if I ever do it, it will have to be now as the only place to mount the tank is protruding is at the rear of the bay on the passenger side protruding into the wheel well area. Still pricing options, its likely I cant afford it though and I will end up adding wings to my wet sump along with an improved trap door setup around the pickup and the fitting of an oil accumulator which would be mounted in the space below the intercooler behind the airdam between the top diffuser plate and the splitter.



Also having thoughts about changing the rear lights to 240Z style and possibly doing a single panel trim piece similar to what MZR do, I reckon most on here will dislike this idea? Perhaps its changing from the original too much.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
I used to want to swap to 240z lights, but I decided that was just the 240z halo effect, and objectively the 260z lights are just as good looking. I have convinced myself :)
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
I'm looking into a drysump setup because if I ever do it, it will have to be now as the only place to mount the tank is protruding is at the rear of the bay on the passenger side protruding into the wheel well area. Still pricing options, its likely I cant afford it though and I will end up adding wings to my wet sump along with an improved trap door setup around the pickup and the fitting of an oil accumulator which would be mounted in the space below the intercooler behind the airdam between the top diffuser plate and the splitter.



Also having thoughts about changing the rear lights to 240Z style and possibly doing a single panel trim piece similar to what MZR do, I reckon most on here will dislike this idea? Perhaps its changing from the original too much.

I would have thought a dry-sump set-up is a complication you don't need for a road car. Aren't you spending enough? ;)

Rear lights - perhaps convert one of the reversing lights into a high intensity fog light. One-upmanship over the 240 guys! :thumbs:
 

Ian

Club Member
I started out preferring the 260Z lights, but now I switch between liking the 240z ones and then back to the 260Z ones, but I think overall the 240z setup gives a cleaner aesthetic.




I would have thought a dry-sump set-up is a complication you don't need for a road car. Aren't you spending enough? ;)
Pretty much correct, and I'm definitely spending more than enough. If I can make a wet sump setup work then that the easier option. Just thinking it through as with the chassis mods needed for it to happen it will be now or never. It does have many benefits on an RB, no worry of oil starvation or surge ever, increased hp by around 15hp in my case, solves any windage/breathing issues and eliminates the oil pump setup which can cause problems on some RBs.




Rear lights - perhaps convert one of the reversing lights into a high intensity fog light. One-upmanship over the 240 guys! :thumbs:
That would be easy, would need to check MOT rule book though, it my be too high to pass MOT as a fog light, but then again fog lights are not required on my car so they wouldn't need to know I had a fog light and therefore won't ask to test it.
 

Jay.

Club Member
Pretty much correct, and I'm definitely spending more than enough. If I can make a wet sump setup work then that the easier option. Just thinking it through as with the chassis mods needed for it to happen it will be now or never. It does have many benefits on an RB, no worry of oil starvation or surge ever, increased hp by around 15hp in my case, solves any windage/breathing issues and eliminates the oil pump setup which can cause problems on some RBs.

Not tempted to just stick with the tried and tested "cheap" solution of an oil drain, uprated oil pump (with gears) and some baffles? Plenty of drifters run that without issues and they're running 500++ whp on the limiter all the time
 

Ian

Club Member
Not tempted to just stick with the tried and tested "cheap" solution of an oil drain, uprated oil pump (with gears) and some baffles? Plenty of drifters run that without issues and they're running 500++ whp on the limiter all the time
Already got all that, but I try and do everything I do the best I possibly can. I believe I had some minor issues on track related to this hence me now looking to improve on it. As a hangover from my job I always look at all options and think everything over and balance cost vs performance. Dry sump is the ultimate option in many ways but I will most likely just go for some upgrades to my sump with wings and improved trap door setup (I've already planned the design I want) and add in an oil accumulator as a backup, can probably do this for just over £1k whereas a dry sump setup is £4k so its not really looking feasible.

Remember while there are many running wet sump RBs on track which work there are probably more who had enough issues to switch to dry sump, if my car was being built primarily as a track car then I'd 100% be going drysump without question, but my car will likely only see track use around 10% of it use.
 

Ian

Club Member
So I had been holding off on ordering new bumpers as they are an expensive part and I needed money elsewhere. However I just bit the bullet and bought a set of Bumper Automobile ones as I need them to arrive during the metalworking stage to make sure all fitment is spot on. I went with the Chromed Stainless Steel option. Since they are stainless I should never have to worry about rust which is great, but I wanted a better finish than even polished stainless can offer so going with chrome made sense. Also went with no holes for the rubbers. I figure doing this I can run wither option as if I decide I want to run rubber I am confident I will be able to glue them on well enough without the need for through bolting.

Lets hope the quality is going to be good. I have in mind to get a carbon fibre set at some point so I can switch between them to change the look. I may use the new bumpers to make a mould and build the carbon ones myself.


The work will continue on the metalwork sometime this month. Hopefully this time it will be completed to the end of this stage. Would be great to have it into bodywork or at least ready for the bodywork stage before Christmas since I originally wanted to collect it in January. If I can I would like to head over for a week during the bodywork stage to help out and increase my own skills from doing so. My job is too uncertain to know when I will have leave net year but I absolutely will be having the car back in my garage to begin assembly before well before the start of summer.
 

Jay.

Club Member
Looking forward to seeing the bumpers, I'm tempted by the Chromed ones too. Would be interested to know your opinion on the finish!

Can't wait to see the progress once it starts up again :)
 

Ian

Club Member
Looking forward to seeing the bumpers, I'm tempted by the Chromed ones too. Would be interested to know your opinion on the finish!
I will certainly report the findings



Can't wait to see the progress once it starts up again :)
Its certainly about time. Not looking forward to the bills again though. Last night was the first time I added up the total so far for the resto work, its pretty scary as its way higher than I expected, when it comes in slowly over a long time paying bit by bit it you don't notice it so much. That explains why it feels like I've been tight on money for a while now.

Never mention how much this car has cost me since buying it, but I don't regret it at all, or at least perhaps only 5%.
 

Ian

Club Member
Back in the shop today. Should see some progress soon.


001_Back_In_Shop_-.jpg
 

Ian

Club Member
Almost there ,wish I was that far down the line truly inspiring ;)
Not sure how almost there it is, but at least its 533 hours closer to it than it was the day I stripped the last parts from the shell.

Still to do:

Driver side minor crash damage repair. Replace inner/outer bonnet hinge panel
Replace part of the pass side bonnet hinge panel due to rust
Few minor mods to the engine bay
Rebuild/replace rear slam panel and surrounding area
Fit the new rear quarter panels
Replace rear lower panel
Various minor repairs around the rear areas of the car
Some stitch welding work
Repair the doors
Replace lower section of drivers side wing.


After all this it should then be on to the bodywork stage.


Still quite a scary list.
 

candy red

Club Member
Not sure how almost there it is, but at least its 533 hours closer to it than it was the day I stripped the last parts from the shell.

Still to do:

Driver side minor crash damage repair. Replace inner/outer bonnet hinge panel
Replace part of the pass side bonnet hinge panel due to rust
Few minor mods to the engine bay
Rebuild/replace rear slam panel and surrounding area
Fit the new rear quarter panels
Replace rear lower panel
Various minor repairs around the rear areas of the car
Some stitch welding work
Repair the doors
Replace lower section of drivers side wing.


After all this it should then be on to the bodywork stage.


Still quite a scary list.
Not to much then :eek:;) good luck with it all
 
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Ian

Club Member
I'm going to assume thats a Joke about how much it will cost. Something I am doing my best not to dwell on. There is no going back now.
 

candy red

Club Member
Not sure how almost there it is, but at least its 533 hours closer to it than it was the day I stripped the last parts from the shell.

Still to do:

Driver side minor crash damage repair. Replace inner/outer bonnet hinge panel
Replace part of the pass side bonnet hinge panel due to rust
Few minor mods to the engine bay
Rebuild/replace rear slam panel and surrounding area
Fit the new rear quarter panels
Replace rear lower panel
Various minor repairs around the rear areas of the car
Some stitch welding work
Repair the doors
Replace lower section of drivers side wing.


After all this it should then be on to the bodywork stage.


Still quite a scary list.
So is the 533 hours yours or the Bodyshop?
 
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