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240Z resurrection

Discussion in 'Rebuilds and restorations' started by tyroguru, Jun 15, 2019.

  1. tyroguru

    Z Club Member

    I've decided to mix it up a bit and do some metal replacement. Obviously I'll see how this goes but the areas that I'm thinking of tackling to start with include floor pans and rails, battery tray area and some of the firewall, outer sills on both sides. As usual I'll maybe change plans slightly as I go along.

    I've had the car on a rotiserrie doing various bit and bobs so I need to get it onto a jig of some sorts to do this work and I'd seen a jig design on classiczcars.com which had a whole bunch of measurements provided together with some nice pics which is perfect for me as it removes the need for original thought :) . Here's a photo of the original jig design which I've followed (all credits to user ConVerTT on classiczcars.com):


    I made the design from 50mmx3mm box section and 3mm right angle apart from the front ARB support which I did in 20mmx3mm section (according to the given design). Now I'm sure this may be a bit over engineered and I've no idea if this is the best way to make a jig for the 240Z but this appealed to me a lot because it would give me plenty of welding practice which I desperately need! The jig I've eventually made is pretty much identical to the above photo apart from a very slight change to the section that bolts into the transmission tunnel mount.

    Anyhoo, the project gave me a chance to buy a new tool which is always a good thing. On account of the amount of metal needed cutting I got myself a new band saw - a Femi SN105 from Stakesys - and this is definitely now one of my favourite tools: I love it.


    Well, the car is now on the jig and it feels totally rock solid and I'm really pleased with it. We'll have to see if all my welds hold up over time as some of them were decidedly poor but it was a great learning experience for me with my welding. Note to self: always re-check the basics and don't go looking for more complex explanations when things aren't going well with the welds as apparently wire speed settings get mystically altered sometimes!

    IMG_0403.jpg IMG_0407.jpg IMG_0406.jpg IMG_0404.jpg
    bigh, Rushingphil and jonbills like this.
  2. tyroguru

    Z Club Member

    I've bought some products from KlassicFab and here's a few photo's for reference.

    IMG_0414.jpg IMG_0415.jpg IMG_0416.jpg IMG_0417.jpg
  3. franky

    franky Well-Known Forum User

    wow. They look excellent. Looks like you've found the new 'go to' for panels.
  4. tyroguru

    Z Club Member

    Yes, the products do seem to be very good and I'll definitely be getting more panels from them. They claim that they are the only people who make their panels for the 240Z using castings but I have no idea at all if that is true. They said this because the battery tray floor part is half cast and half hammer/dolly as they haven't got the full casting done yet. They did offer for me to wait until the full cast is ready but I took it as it is and it looks pretty good.

    Another note is that they were very easy to deal with. Their online purchasing was simple and their follow up was very quick. The parts were shipped from Bogota (which is where they are made) and arrived 8-10 days later via DHL
    Pondo likes this.
  5. Rushingphil

    Z Club Member

    Looking really good Jon :)
    candy red likes this.
  6. tyroguru

    Z Club Member

    Well I bit the bullet and started on the floor replacement this weekend. The floor isn't terrible but the rails are shot and there are a number of holes peeking through so I going to do them both.

    My general plan of attack was to start at the front and remove the floor rails from the chassis rails. It's such a fantastic joy removing those spot welds :) . I think I managed to go through several of the Sealey spot weld removal cutters pretty quickly so I moved on to a spot weld removal drill bit (one of the cheaper Sealey ones) and it's been doing OK but I find it pretty easy to punch through all the metal with that so I'll have a good few plug welds to do. I've seen a few people on here who are positive about 3 flute carbide spot weld drill bits so I've ordered one and I'll se how that works out.


    Once I'd managed to separate the floor rail and chassis rail I then proceeded to cut the floor out with an angle grinder. The replacement floor I got from KFVintageJDM seem to be a really good fit (dimensions and contour wise) so I've gone with the approach of taking the existing floor out completely to the sill on the side, the toe board at the front and the rear section (not sure what that is technically called) and just cut along the transmission tunnel. I basically followed what Chris Thorne laid out at http://zhome.com/Classic/240ZFloorboards/ChrisFloorboards.htm and what I like about this approach is that I just basically cut the floor to within a cm or so of the side and then peel it out much like you would a tin of sardines. This approach worked a treat for me as I was expecting a nightmare with all the spot welds but this way I could just peel the metal back which just leaves a bit of smoothing down of the spot weld that is left. Marvellous!

    This is with the floor removed to just behind the front seat support (metal not removed to sill and toe board yet though).


    Everything seems to be fine apart from the toe board where it is rusted out in the area where the chassis rail and frame rail meet.


    I cut the chassis rail back slightly to get a bit of a better view up the back of the toe board and the rust seems to have spread a couple of inches up the toe board.


    The rest of the toe board seems to be very solid apart from that localised spread of rust so I'm hoping to just make a patch for that. I'm not quite sure at the minute about the order to do that in though as to get good access to the toe board it looks like I'd need to remove at least part of the chassis rail and that general area to get good access but I don't think I want to do that without the floor in... I wonder if I could put the floor in and replace that small section of the toe board when the floor is in? Advice very welcomed!
  7. moggy240

    moggy240 INSURANCE VALUATIONS OFFICER Staff Member Moderator

    I mainly just use a 10mm belt sander on the spot welds as I find it quicker as you still have to clean up after using spot weld cutters. You will get through a lot of belts as well.
  8. tyroguru

    Z Club Member

    I do use a 10mm belt sander for some spot weld removal Mike - it's actually on the floor in one of the images. I bought this at your recommendation so thanks for that! I find that I go through belts like crazy though and wonder if it's just a bad technique on my part? If I can get very easy access I tend to try and drill them out but it can be such a pain of a job so I tend to go between them at the minute.
    moggy240 likes this.
  9. moggy240

    moggy240 INSURANCE VALUATIONS OFFICER Staff Member Moderator

    Good quality belts will help, but they don't last long. I got some cheap ones and as soon as I touch the welds with it they would snap. Usually I can do about 3 spot welds with one belt.
    Removing the old panel and cleaning it up and then fitting and cutting the new panel is always very time consuming.
    tyroguru likes this.
  10. uk66fastback

    Z Club Member

    It pays to take your time with these kind of jobs. That jig looks superb though, well done.
    tyroguru likes this.

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