240z + 1JZ-GTE (manual)

[GTR-240Z]

John here is the link to the radiator we talked about at North Weald may be useful in your conversion since your need the inlet/outlet on the same side like an RB.

Griffin Thermal Products 1-28182-X - Griffin Aluminum Circle Track Radiators - Overview - SummitRacing.com

How much power are you hoping to get out of the 1JZ once finished?

 

[johnymd]

How much power are you hoping to get out of the 1JZ once finished?

Just enough to beat you

Thanks for the link, I tried to find the 2 pass ones last night but they do so many.

 

[johnymd]

I think your pretty safe for a while though.

Around the 400 mark would be nice but I want to keep the twins for the nice drivability. The mods will probably be:

Better downpipe
Exhaust
FMIC
Rebuild turbo with steel internals
Standaloan ECU
Boost contoller
Increase boost to 1.2bar

This should get me near that mark.

 

[240z]

Good call on the down/dump pipe, made a huge difference to mine, but still to be tested properly at the strip!


Let me know if you need an intercooler, I've got the custom made one which is a direct fit for the car if you fancy it, probably better than a cheap ebay one..I'll also have a set of lews split wastegate dump pipes (y-pipe) which were made for the 240z going free if I ever get round to installing my new kit...

The gear lever location looks fine, they do 2 extension housings in the soarer I think, one that hangs right off the back, might be even too far off the back by the looks of it...

I'm getting jealous!

I think your pretty safe for a while though.

Around the 400 mark would be nice but I want to keep the twins for the nice drivability. The mods will probably be:

Better downpipe
Exhaust
FMIC
Rebuild turbo with steel internals
Standaloan ECU
Boost contoller
Increase boost to 1.2bar

This should get me near that mark.

 

[johnymd]

I've already got an intercooler that needs minor mods to fit. Not sure how good it is though - cheap ebay one! Definatelty interested in the Y pipe (thats replaces the cast pipe where the turbo outlets join?). You realy should get on with that upgrade.

 

[240z]

Definatelty interested in the Y pipe (thats replaces the cast pipe where the turbo outlets join?). You realy should get on with that upgrade.

Yep - the one in the pic, and the difference it can make..

Might have to wait until winter time though..

 

[johnymd]

I can wait.

Amazing the difference the various upgrades make.

 

[johnymd]

Works been getting in the way of progress but the engine and box are now mounted in their final position. It sits a lot lower and further back than the L series, also its now sits vertical (I never liked the look of a pissed engine). A new props been ordered and should be ready mid next week. Just measured and ordered all the intercooler pipework and fittings along with the fuel pumps and swirl pot. By next weekend I should have a whole load of parts to start fitting. Fitted the center consule this morning to check on the gear lever and it couldn't be better. I've started researching the wiring (which I'll put off till last) and I think shouldn't be too bad.

Here's a few more pics.

 

[moggy240]

that looks a very nice fit !!!!!!!!!!!

 

[johnymd]

Yeah, it's like it was made to go there.

Been makeing brakets and fitting the intercooler today. Its got to come off again to have the inlets modified but it seems to fit pretty good.

 

[moggy240]

i noticed you have seam welded the chassis legs ,did you do this in preparation of puting in this engine conversion ??

 

[johnymd]

No, the car was like this when I bought it. It's had a hard life and at one stage tried to go under a crash barrier. It didn't come away from this very well. It was taken to fourways to get the body straight again and they replaced every thing from the windscreen forward with new panels. Along with rear panel and rear quarter. The bill was around £10,000 for the pannel work and it came away from them as a very good shell. I guess they seam welded it when they asembled the front.

 

[johnymd]

I've got the prop shaft back now and they seam to have done a good job. They have cut the front off the toyota and supplied a new centre tube and rear uprated UJ. All for £125.

The swirl pot and filter arrived this morning so I'll be looking at the fuel system today. Anyone know how to take a sytec bullet filter apart?

Here's a few pics.

 

[Mr.F]

Anyone know how to take a sytec bullet filter apart?

They are supplied with two steel pegs that fit into the holes on the top which provides support for leverage to unscrew the two halves. If yours are lost I should be able to find a pair for you to borrow...

 

[johnymd]

Thanks Mike and yes I could do with borrowing one at some point. I thought this may how it come apart but when it wouldn't budge I thought I'd better check.

Gave up on the fuel system as I desided not to use the soarer lines and buy new one's. So I thought I'd tackle the throttle cable. Stripped the cable and pedle out of the soarer. I drilled a couple of bolt holes above and below the existing linkage hole in the baulkhead and bolted up the cable support assemble out of the soarer. Checked the cable location and then modified the Z pedel with the end of the soarer one. I thought the cable was going to be too long but it fits perfect. I can't believe how good the throttle feels compaired to the old linkage.

Clutch looks like the next job. Just need to work out a good route for the pipe and work out how long it needs to be.

 

[johnymd]

Been slowly working my way through the various jobs.

Clutch - As the slave cylinder is on the other side of the gearbox I made up a new pipe to go from the Z master cylinder to the soarer flexible pipe that attaches to the slave. Both fittings are standard Z type.

Fan belt - Because I'm not using the air con or power stearing pump it causes a problem with the belt tensioner pulley. The standard one is smooth as it runs on the inside of the belt. Because of how it will now run it needs to have ribbs. I used a pulley of a Honda S2000 which seams to do the job perfectly. I used a shorter belt off 975mm.

Fuel lines - I ended up using the same size as the standard soarer (they seam to have no problems, even with fairly big upgrades) in conifer so I was able to use the soarer fittings and flexibles to the engine.

Intercooler - Had the ends modified so they turn through 90 and go straight through the existing rad support holes. Finished off the intercooler pipework with 70mm ali tube and black silicone elbows (I think this looks sh*t so I've just ordered a load of 70mm 45 bends in ali which I'll cut up and have tiged when I get a chance).

Cooling - Using the Z rad untill I can afford one in ali. Most of the pipes done, just waiting for some bends to finish the heater circuit.

Basically it pretty much finished all bar the wiring. Been going through all the diagrams and pinouts so will probable start this next weekend.

I still need to finish off the pump/swirl pot stuff but I'm still waiting on some fittings that should have been hear last week.

 

[datsun dave]

Any pictures of the intercooler fitted ?.

 

[johnymd]

Some intercooler pics Dave.

Once the car is up and running and I'm happy with the fit and how everything works I'll take it all apart again to clean any welds up and paint everything. At the moment everything is just trial fitted.

 

[us2]

Nissan designers must have known that people would be fitting intercoolers when the S30
was conceived, The space that was left and the holes in perfect position. Amazing.LOL

Nice work.

 

[datsun dave]

Some intercooler pics Dave.

Once the car is up and running and I'm happy with the fit and how everything works I'll take it all apart again to clean any welds up and paint everything. At the moment everything is just trial fitted.

Nice idea with welding alloy tube onto the intercooler and passing it through the rad support panel, i might just copy you on that as it looks like we have bought the same intercooler.