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123 ignition for Datsun L6 on my L28
- Thread starter AliK
- Start date
240L31
Club Member
A bit off topic, but these are custom made leads which wrap around the front side of the engine.
Robert
Club Member
I've been reading this thread with interest but need some clarification. I have a standard L24 which will be getting 40's, full exhaust and some light head work, mainly manifold matching. I want to fit a 123 as I like the idea of being able to tune it however I have questions about the MAP / vac advance.
1) Would it be possible to create a stable vacuum source from the intake suitable?
2) If it's possible to run the 123 without the MAP what drivability would I loose?
3) Do you think the unit is tuneable enough to mostly compensate for the loss of the MAP?
Basically I'm being greedy. I want more top end but I want to retain as much bottom end flexibility as possible.
Thanks in advance (No pun intended).
1) Would it be possible to create a stable vacuum source from the intake suitable?
2) If it's possible to run the 123 without the MAP what drivability would I loose?
3) Do you think the unit is tuneable enough to mostly compensate for the loss of the MAP?
Basically I'm being greedy. I want more top end but I want to retain as much bottom end flexibility as possible.
Thanks in advance (No pun intended).
atomman
Club Member
I spent ages plumbing in vac signals from my 40's and making a canister filled with open cell foam to smooth out the pulses in the signal to use the MAP function on my 123 and to be honest I took it all off after a week and its still on the shelf in my garage, SO i have used my 123 for at least 5 years with out the MAP function,
Personally I wouldn't bother with triple's unless you're gonna at least put a camshaft in as well as the other mods you plan
Robert
Club Member
Thanks Atomman.
Obviously not the right topic to start discussing cams but ultimately I'll probably change it to extract the full benefit of the other mods. But for now I'll be happy having my current parts fitted and the rest of the engine checked out while it's apart. It's supposed to have been fully rebuilt four years ago, though I have no reason to doubt it, I want to make sure it's healthy.
Obviously not the right topic to start discussing cams but ultimately I'll probably change it to extract the full benefit of the other mods. But for now I'll be happy having my current parts fitted and the rest of the engine checked out while it's apart. It's supposed to have been fully rebuilt four years ago, though I have no reason to doubt it, I want to make sure it's healthy.
Farmer42
Club Member
Just thought I would post up a word of caution on the 123 dizzy.
If you disconnect the battery, you will need to re-write the ignition curve to the dizzy. Any cut in electrical power wipes any stored timing curve. It also wipes your Bluetooth connection to your management device.
Just found all this out after over an hour trying to start the car. There is nothing that says this in the blurb but thinking about it after the event, its probably pretty obvious!
If you disconnect the battery, you will need to re-write the ignition curve to the dizzy. Any cut in electrical power wipes any stored timing curve. It also wipes your Bluetooth connection to your management device.
Just found all this out after over an hour trying to start the car. There is nothing that says this in the blurb but thinking about it after the event, its probably pretty obvious!
atomman
Club Member
Just thought I would post up a word of caution on the 123 dizzy.
If you disconnect the battery, you will need to re-write the ignition curve to the dizzy. Any cut in electrical power wipes any stored timing curve. It also wipes your Bluetooth connection to your management device.
Just found all this out after over an hour trying to start the car. There is nothing that says this in the blurb but thinking about it after the event, its probably pretty obvious!
My car has a battery cut off switch and this has never happened to me, and it was left for more than 2 months last time,
maybe a glitch with your dizzy ?
Sounds odd Paul, I also use the cut off switch regularly without issues. In fact, when I got a new phone I had lost the stored curves on my app so I downloaded the idle curve off the dizzy - which had power disconnected a number of times before.
I suspect you have a problem on yours - still under warranty?
I suspect you have a problem on yours - still under warranty?
MCBladeRun
Club Member
Try duplicating the fault by disconnecting power again and see if it wasn't a one-off Paul? Obvs be prepared to reload the map thingy in case it doesn't remember.It didn't wipe the files on my phone but I did definitely have to re-write the curve onto the dizzy. It worked cos it started and ran whereas it didn't before I did it. Maybe it's an anomaly with my dizzy.
Farmer42
Club Member
That's a good shout. I'll give it a go but it's running now so I'm a bit reluctant to mess about with it. I suppose I have to in case it needs to go back under warranty.
Farmer42
Club Member
So, I went to start the engine after laying idle for a few weeks. Before turning it over I checked the readings between the app on my phone and the dizzy and all looked good. Turned it over and it took an absolute age to start and misfired when it did. It got slightly better as it continued to run which i put it down to a little overcooking or flooding whilst turning it over. It did the same on occasions with the 280zx dizzy but cleared when it warmed up.
However, as it warmed up, it started popping & banging quite loudly. All the timing curves seemed ok and all the connections were in place. Checked the cap and rotor and they seemed ok. I couldn't get rid of it and it was getting worse so I shut it down before I had an Ali exploding exhaust situation or it did any damage.
It really sounded like the fuel was firing in the exhaust which to me indicated retarded timing and late firing. I didn't put the timing light on to check it cos I was reluctant to start it back up again. The carbs were fine and it wasn't fuel starvation or flooding. The plugs were a little sooty due to the choke I had used but nothing serious.
I'm at a loss to know the cause. Does anyone have any ideas? If not, the 280zx dizzy is going back in cos I can't drive like that!
However, as it warmed up, it started popping & banging quite loudly. All the timing curves seemed ok and all the connections were in place. Checked the cap and rotor and they seemed ok. I couldn't get rid of it and it was getting worse so I shut it down before I had an Ali exploding exhaust situation or it did any damage.
It really sounded like the fuel was firing in the exhaust which to me indicated retarded timing and late firing. I didn't put the timing light on to check it cos I was reluctant to start it back up again. The carbs were fine and it wasn't fuel starvation or flooding. The plugs were a little sooty due to the choke I had used but nothing serious.
I'm at a loss to know the cause. Does anyone have any ideas? If not, the 280zx dizzy is going back in cos I can't drive like that!
MCBladeRun
Club Member
Sorry to hear you're having trouble Paul, could the fault be coming from the software at all? Or is that impossible because the 123 hardware ensures it fires on time like the mechanical version?