EML bank 1 sensor 1

Aerialmark

Aerialmark

Club Member
Well that’s the thing,I took it to the garage with a replacement that I’d bought ( the one in the picture) and the garage who I’ve used many times and are a very good set of chaps said after testing the bank 1 sensor 1 it’s working fine and the one I had bought was the wrong one ! They also mentioned that it had been de catted and straight pipes fitted by the previous owner, but when I looked in the folder of receipts it said sports cats had been fitted along with a different exhaust. I have to say that Lambda sensors,cats and straight pipes are something I know nothing about and have to trust the garage. Could it be that the engine light comes on because the exhaust system has been messed about with ? As far as I can see it has no detriment to the performance of the car. Below is the sensor I bought thinking it was the right one for the upstream of Bank 1 CCADE9A8-3A65-4D80-8A93-21CAA49C3717.png
 
Aerialmark

Aerialmark

Club Member
Its booked in for the the 10th of May to have a new one fitted. Im getting a genuine part from Nissan at a cost of about £220.
The engine light came on again today after going a 100 or so miles without it. I was pottering at 30mph when it happened. I took it straight to the garage who put it on the diagnostic machine and everything was fine, He concluded that the thing to try now is to replace it. The one I had bought was the wrong one so a genuine Nissan one has been ordered. The car runs fine even when the light comes on so Im not worried its just annoying more than anything.
jonbills said:
(I've split this out to a new thread @Aerialmark )

What was the actual error code?
Which sensor did they identify as b1s1?
Click to expand...
The error code is P2A00
They have said its the drivers side pre cat.
 
jonbills

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
Have a look at this:
£220 is a lot to be spending on the assumption the sensor is the problem.
Depending what phone you have, you can get an app and an obd2 dongle and graph the o2 sensor voltage and fuel trims which will help show where the problems are.
 
Rob Gaskin

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
When you get older and become boring you'll buy standard cars and still be frustrated by speed limits and cameras.

My 370Z was 100% reliable for 80k miles.
 
Aerialmark

Aerialmark

Club Member
This car probably was before I bought it Rob, I'm the kiss of death to healthy cars ! Its now done 83000 and from past mot,s its been great. Also speaking to the previous owner ( who I didn't buy it directly from ) said he has owned it since 2016 and its not missed a beat. It does run well but I can't help thinking that the bigger exhaust, sports cats and straight pipes have contributed to the EML light appearing. It was put on an expensive machine today and the graph and voltages were all well within the tolerances ( I had to take his word for that but he's been a friend for many years and has always been good to deal with ) I will let them fit the new sensor and swallow the cost this time and see what happens. If it fails then I will see what they are willing to do from there. I do have a dongle to link to my smartphone but its a little slow and a bit complicated to navigate once connected. They will make a bit of money out of me on the 10th as my motorhome is booked in at the same time for its yearly service and aircon re-gas. Its only money Rob and I can't take it with me into the next life !
I know what you mean about boring cars, I bought my wife a new kia Picanto Auto last year when I retired and my god its bland but reliable. Im not just at that stage yet but its not far over the horizon. Maybe electric next ?
 
Aerialmark

Aerialmark

Club Member
jonbills said:
Have a look at this:
£220 is a lot to be spending on the assumption the sensor is the problem.
Depending what phone you have, you can get an app and an obd2 dongle and graph the o2 sensor voltage and fuel trims which will help show where the problems are.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that it’s very informative. As I said to Rob he has checked the air fuel ratio on his machine and the maf sensor and thinks a new Lambda sensor is the next step. As I don’t know a lot about it I have to go with it. When he tested it he said ( and I agree) it only happens every 100 or so miles sometimes longer and it is very hard to diagnose but in his opinion after looking for leaks and testing the voltage he thinks it could be the sensor just having a wobbly every now and then so bringing on the engine light. I just hope this cures it. Fingers crossed 🤞
 
Aerialmark

Aerialmark

Club Member
Well the new sensor was fitted yesterday at the bargain price of £420 🫣 It’s now just a waiting game to see if it reappears as it can go a few hundred miles and not come on🤞
 
Aerialmark

Aerialmark

Club Member
Engine light has come on again same fault 😡
I went to the meet at the Motorist over the weekend and did about 180 miles. All was well until today when returning from the hospital. I was stationary in traffic then just moved forwards and changed lane and on it came. It follows no particular pattern but once reset does not come back on for a good few miles. It is really annoying and I don’t want to keep throwing money at it. I went straight to the garage so they could put it on the machine and it is the same fault bank 1 Sensor 1. They can’t fit me in for a few weeks but have said they will test all the wiring connections by putting it under a load ( attaching a bulb ) and moving the wires about if the light goes out they know it’s a break. I doubt it will be free but it will be one more thing out of the way. Has anyone any ideas ? Can this be deleted if it was to go for a tune ?
 
Farmer42

Farmer42

Club Member
I had a similar annoying fault on my wife's Hyundai coupe a few years ago. Similar fault reading funny enough!

I ended up replacing loads of sensors, leads and coil packs chasing it round as well as a couple of hundred quid on diagnostics and it turned out to be 2 stupid things that weren't electrical at all but had an effect on the sensors. Firstly the PO had put the wrong oil in it that was throwing the cam sensor and air flow sensor haywire as it was viscosity sensitive. It was also found that the throttle shaft on the throttle body was worn and was leaking air - again throwing sensors out.

I'm not saying it's the same thing but it may not be an electrical issue as I found out. Sorry if that doesn't help!!☹️
 
Aerialmark

Aerialmark

Club Member
Right sorry. Well on the oil front i had it done by Nissan when I bought it so I will discount that but the throttle body is worth a check. Thanks
 
Farmer42

Farmer42

Club Member
Just found the notes I made on my phone for the Coupe fault. It was P0300 when checked was the O2 sensor fault. It wasn't that, it was an air leak as mentioned previously.

I don't know much about all this electronic jiggery pokery on engines but have been told that they are just as susceptible to intake or exhaust leaks as the older carb driven engines. Throttle body bushes wear out as they do on carbs with the same results. Bloody sensors - give me a good old fashioned L series any day!!
 
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